PAezb Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Well, I began noticing a oil burning smell on a trip awhile back on my 05 OBW-XT. I have had some trouble with the purolator oil filters leaking around the seal under pressure in the past, and this was just after I change the oil so I figured that was most likely the problem. Hadn't been a big deal as the body of the filters when they did leak was very minor. However, I finally did an inspection and found that the smell was coming from grease splattered on the front CAT from a split in the drive boot right in front of it. Now, I have probably put a couple of thousand miles since I first noticed the smell. Contacting Jason at Scarff Subaru, he thinks that all I will need is the boot/grease kit to replace instead of purchasing a whole new drive axle. My concern is the amount of time and contamination that has occurred to the CV, figuring it's safer to just replace the whole axle. Price is $300 for the axle vs. $66 for a new boot and grease. The car has about 93K on her. Opinions welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 I say fix the boot. If it's not causing any vibration or noise, it's probably just fine. But 300 for a new axle!! That's insane!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 If you think thats insane, I'm getting ready to do the T-belt and spark plug replacement, a local Subaru dealer here in the Twin Cities, whom will remain nameless for now, gave me a written estimate on parts and labor. Just for the parts, the belt alone is $175 and the iridium plugs are $30 each:eek: Jason's prices are more reasonable: 13028AA240 t-belt $110.66 22401AA670 spark plugs $11.77ea Damn local dealer labor rates are getting outragous too - $115/hr:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Something else I'd like to share, slightly off topic. I'm also planning to finally put in the transmission cooler on this car as I tow alot. What I discovered in looking for the fluild lines is that Subaru has now routed the fluid through a independent filter that sits *in* the front driver-side fender, behind where the battery sits. In the attachment, you are looking at the empty battery compartment and you can see the filter in the top back of the pic, with the writting on it. Now this makes accessing the line very easy to install the cooler, but it isn't it odd to place the filter in the fender? I mean, what if even a small fender bender were to occur in that area? Poor design IMO:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 your title says "split boot", but you never mentioned actual "Split boots". i'm assuming you know not to use those since you didn't mention them. just a coincidence that you titled it as such? personally i buy used axles or new from MWE. used they're $35 all over the place around me for any 2001+ subaru axle. simpler, quicker, and it's easy to find one with boots in great condition being that new. call MWE if you want new - i've paid $90 or so a piece for their axles, but never bought EJ's yet (they're too easy to find used in great shape for cheap still). doing the boot is ideal, it's a good axle. but boots are messy and irritating to do yourself. that's why i replace the entire axle. 2005 - guess it's out of warranty? that sucks, that's young for a boot to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAezb Posted March 5, 2009 Author Share Posted March 5, 2009 Yeah, it is coincidence, the boot is actually ripped all the way around (see pic attachment). I have bought the front axles from MWE for the 96 Outback, so I am familiar with them - it is an option. I just figured under a 100K on an XT I may want to go with a new Subaru OE. I'm having a dealer do the t-belt and plugs anyway so I'll them do the boot or axle. If you were in the area I'd ask you if you would do the entire job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryverrat Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Go with the axle- anytime the boots rip, junk gets in there and it is almost always caused some damage that you might not find until later (especially since you mentioned towing). Besides have you ever tried to get the new axle grease off of anything (even if you wear gloves that stuff will get on your skin somewhere and is a pain in the butt to get off- I just get remanufactured axles or new if the price is good when I do mine-hate that grease) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 If you were in the area I'd ask you if you would do the entire job awesome, i'd be down. where you at, maybe i'll fly there!!?? you could have Subaru do the t-belt and somewhere else do the axle. axles are easy, any place can do those. or pay me the airfare to come do the axle! if you have a specific reason like "hey these axles are the bomb (MWE's), they're way better than aftermarkets". rather than "i tried to save $13 just to be a pain in the #!$$$##", shops are usually very receptive and understanding to that. frankly they seem totally down with helping someone that actually knows something about cars and wants quality parts rather than just trying to save a couple dollars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 When you do get around to pulling the axle out....be careful...your outback has the stub shaft the fits into the transmission....I have seen tech's before rip the axle out of the trans and it pulls the seal along with it....there are two seals there...1 that is supposed to come out that kind of rides on the inner end of the axle joint housing and 1 that isnt...if i remember correctly Its hell trying to get that seal back in...I might be mistaken but I think you have to disassemble the trans to properly reinstall it....I think what happens is the little clip/ring on the end of the stub shaft ( that fits into the trans)...that gets caught on the seal and pulls it along....Just a precaution... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troptree Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 just resolved the same issue w/my 85 brat. You have 2 choices - NAPA part #95-3157 is the complete replacement axle w/new CV joints & boots - they gave me a price of $84 +freight per axle - but I found a steering repair specialist locally that rebuilt both front axles (removed, rebuilt the original CV joints + new boots, & reinstalled for $95/side, + inspected the rear axles and the whole steering & undercarriage - decided that the original equipment was probably made better than the replacement stuff fm China so did the rebuild - came out great........hope that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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