1997reduxe Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi all. I had written a few days ago about towing my car to get the t-belt replaced, but now I have decided to try it myself. It's just that over the past year I've read so many of these posts, pdfs etc that now I'm kind of confused. My dumb question is, that basically you remove the crankshaft pulley to get to the t-belt covers and pulleys underneath, correct? I had assumed that the crankshaft pulley was under the t-belt covers also, but now I see that it is outside, and you don't need to worry about the positioning of the crankshaft pulley, marks, etc, as with the t-belt pulleys, right? Also, I seem to remember references to someone on this forum who had previously posted a step by step picture procedure of their process for the t-belt replacement? Does anybody know where that might be located? Thanks for any info/help. '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincentmoy Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Hi all.I had written a few days ago about towing my car to get the t-belt replaced, but now I have decided to try it myself. It's just that over the past year I've read so many of these posts, pdfs etc that now I'm kind of confused. My dumb question is, that basically you remove the crankshaft pulley to get to the t-belt covers and pulleys underneath, correct? I had assumed that the crankshaft pulley was under the t-belt covers also, but now I see that it is outside, and you don't need to worry about the positioning of the crankshaft pulley, marks, etc, as with the t-belt pulleys, right? Also, I seem to remember references to someone on this forum who had previously posted a step by step picture procedure of their process for the t-belt replacement? Does anybody know where that might be located? Thanks for any info/help. '97 Your pretty much right. The Crank pulley is OUTSIDE the belt cover, while the Crank GEAR is INSIDE:grin: May I ask what car you have and what kind of trans.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Ah, the old saying "search is your friend!" Tons of information on here--got me through my first timing belt change. Here's a link to start: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=timing+belt+endwrench Just go to "search" (up top) and type in timing belt. And do read the Endwrench and other articles referenced--very helpful. Good luck . . . and axe questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Surely. I have a 97 Legacy 2.2, but from help on this list a long time ago it was pretty much determined to be a 96 build, and I am waiting for the master kit from the import specialists i think they are in Yakima to get here. I am going to try and also do the oil pump and water pump, but we'll see how it goes. I had an awfully lot of miles on my belt, and just in the last few weeks it kind of started whirring and then clanking under the belt cover, though the car was still running fine timing-wise, so I am hoping it was one of the pulleys going under there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Oh, and I forgot the trans. It's an automatic. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I had an awfully lot of miles on my belt, and just in the last few weeks it kind of started whirring and then clanking under the belt cover, though the car was still running fine:slobber: this is an interferrence engine if the belt or a pulley gives up, or maybe even if it just jumps time, you be doing the heads and replacing valves. be careful, very careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 I'm trying to take the job nice and slowly, though so far I'm pretty pleased at how easy it is. The easiest part was unfastening the 22 mm crank bolt. My brother's long breaker bar was perfect to reach the part of the frame in front of the battery, and I did the "turn over the engine" trick I found out about here on USMB. Didn't even need a puller, it came right off! The hardest part so far has been unfastening one of the fan motor harness plugs. I'm down to the part where I can now see the timing belt. And I can tell now that the clanking and whirring I think is the water pump. Thank God I didn't tell the timing belt kit guy not to sell me one. I'll wait until I'm done to say how much I love this website--OOOPPPSSS!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 dumb first timing belt mistakes torqued only 5 of the 6 water pump bolts. it leaked and i had to re- do everything, ugh. (side note: 3/8" sockets were too big for 2 of the bolts , i needed a 1/4" drive socket.) dumb second time mistakes when re-doing it because of the leaking water pump, i started to re-install the radiator, everything else was done, and remembered the tensioner. i didn't tighten the mounting bolts or pull the pin on the tensioner. the pulley and the belt have to be on before you do either of these, and then you are thinking covers so it's easy to forget, apparently. but at least i remembered. i think i better keep my day job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
952.2LX Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 1997 i'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 1995 2.2 AT. Luckily I have the non-interference 2.2. It's great reading so many post on doing a "nose job" on these. Lots of info. Keep posting. I am gonna try and take pics as I go when I get started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 i started to re-install the radiator, everything else was done, and remembered the tensioner. Gee, john, you're human! So am I. Did almost exactly the same thing and had to backtrack several steps to correct it. Guess the lesson is don't rush, re-read the instructions every once in awhile and stop to mentally review every so often. What a thrill when I finally cranked the engine and it purred. (But am glad I kept my day job!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 My main concern today is to clarify the sealants I need. I am going to replace the oil pump, (hopefully), so I understand the Permatex Anaerobic will be suitable for that. And the Loctite for the oil pump back plate. Also the water pump, shot I believe, so I understand that you use no sealant for that, but could use some possibly? I will probably go with none. One thing I am worried about is the thermostat seal. The water pump went on it a while back, and when the place I took it to replaced it it leaked immediately after driving away. If I remember correctly they used the wrong gasket for the thermostat? I seem to remember that they had to order from Subaru? and it was a copper seal? Has anyone heard of this--the plastic bowl on the bottom of the water pump but a copper seal? Now that I think of it maybe they replaced the entire bowl and new gasket. I have to see what it looks like when I get it off. Thanks again. '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 IIRC Permatex Ultra Grey is approved for sealing the oil pump to the block. Also don't forget a new o-ring for the oil pump. Haynes manual does show a water pump gasket and a thermostat gasket too. Get genuine Subaru parts for those--and for the thermostat itself. Check your crank and cam oil seals for leakage. It's a good time to replace them. And the cam shaft o-ring on the left (driver's) side. Check all the timing belt idler pulleys too. The cogged one nearest the water pump is usually the first to go. Doing all this while you've got the front end open is a lot easier than having to go back in later! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Thanks Olnick. You are way ahead of me. I went to Autozone and Oreilly and though I saw lots of Permatex products (Ultra Grey among them) I couldn't find the word Anaerobic on any of them. Isn't it funny? I go along all this time thinking about doing the belt or having someone do it for me, and upon finally acting I think there's going to be this section at the store that says in neon: "Subaru Timing Belt products right HERE!!!!" One other queston. Can someone tell me the model number of the Loctite for the oil pump, or give a link to it? I couldn't find that either. Thanks, once again... '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Ultra Grey is not anaerobic however Subaru approves it as a substitute for the original sealant, which was anaerobic. Loctite comes in different strengths denoted by color on the packaging. You'll want the blue (medium strength.) But I'm just spouting this stuff from memory and could be off or even wrong. Still suggest that you use the "search" function here on the USMB--there's a treasure trove of facts and helpful hints from the past and can answer all your questions--even those you don't know yet! Good luck and keep us posted on how it goes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 I have a question. Are these torque specs for real? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/oil&water_pump_install1.jpg 7 ft-lbs on the water pump bolts? Do I put locktite on ANY bolts? Should I just put a dab anyway on everything. I am thinking I will retorque everything inside there with locktite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 If anyone sees this post, can you tell me how you get the crank pulley off? I am replacing the oil pump, so can you take the oil pump off then remove the pulley? Or do you have to take off the pulley first? Got everything else off. Thanks. '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincentmoy Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 If anyone sees this post, can you tell me how you get the crank pulley off?I am replacing the oil pump, so can you take the oil pump off then remove the pulley? Or do you have to take off the pulley first? Got everything else off. Thanks. '97 You are pretty much right. Take off the crank pulley off if not you can't get behind the timing belt cover. Then you need to take off the TB itself to get to the oil pump. Vincent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Sorry, I meant the crank sprocket. I got it off with some liquid wrench and a lot of back and forth screwdriver prying. I mean a lot. My next question, is can I use an oil pump that is meant for a manual transmission with an automatic Legacy? I mean, i ordered one for my car, but now that I look at it it's not the same, it has nipples (I said nipples) that correspond to where the top cover would bolt onto, and an extra appendage on the bottom protruding vertically downward. I was about to pry the old pump off, and noticed the difference. Any opinions on this? Do they sell universal pumps, anyone? Very specific questions, I know. '97 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 The oil pumps between an auto and a 5 spd will be the same, so if it's different than whats on your car, there is a good chance that they gave one for a different car, or motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 My next question, is can I use an oil pump that is meant for a manual transmission with an automatic Legacy? Is there some reason you are replacing the oil pump? Are you sure your old one is no good? Usually you just have to remove the old pump and check the backing plate screws. Loctite them if they're loose. Then replace the little o-ring and reseal to the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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