COS87GL10 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 (edited) Tried a quick search .... I was driving the along everything was fine, then the oil light came on, with no throttle response, then the whole dash lit up and now she won't start. There is power, and the fuel pump pressurizes, but it only cranks. Tested the spark at the plugs and there wasn't any. Suspect Coil may be bad...going to try that first. Any other suggestions, all other electrical systems seem to be functioning fine. Any other suggestions? Thanks! Jim Edited March 12, 2009 by COS87GL10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 timing belt??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 You can check the coil with a meter. Download the FSM if you havent it has the resistance values and check procedure in it.http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip Also befor you remove it, make sure you have power to it. Aslo check the bracket ground, and the spark ground. Make sure the plug to the distributor is connected and clean and the wires too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 UPDATE: Batman18: Check the time belts, they are both in tact and have tension on the m. ihscout54: I picked up a new coil, Accel Super 8140 no changes..test for power at the coil was good...still no spark getting to plugs. would there be codes set in the ECU? I can't remember which test connectors are which. Still hunting...Thanks for all the quick responses. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Check the fusable links , check all grounds. when all the indicator lights come on its usally a failure of the alternator, or its path to the battery, ie the fusable links [ATTACH]6224[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Check the fusible links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 Bratman18 & ivantruckman... Fusible links all pass visual and continuity checks. The alternator has been replaced recently. Vehicle was running fine prior to this event occurring, engine just stopped. dash lights up as if you just turned the key prior to starting. not sure what else to check on. Still hunting...thanks for the fast replies. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Accel was all they had huh? Ide keep the stock one. Did you check the harness to the disty? And the plug? It may flash a code, in that FSM pdf, link I left you is the procedure and explination of how to interprate codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I would take each fusible link out and check them. Sometimes they can look fine but they aren't Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 7, 2009 Author Share Posted March 7, 2009 ihscout54: yeah that's what was readily available at the time. Since that doesn't seem to be the issue I will most likely be putting the stock coil back in. bratman18: each link was taken out and checked with a meter for continuity. Going to see if there are any codes set in the ECU. KOEO test reveals I believe to be a 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor or circuit. Not sure if that's right or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) It appears you are not getting any ignition pulses. You can verify this by using a test light probe. Place the tip of the probe on the 'minus' side of the coil and clip the lead of the probe to a good ground point. Then try cranking the engine to see if the probe light pulses. I suspect you will just see a steady glowing light. This would mean the CAS in the disty is not working or the ignition amplifier is bad. Edited March 8, 2009 by Cougar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Have you checked the screw in the distributor rotor. Just take of the cap and try to spin the rotor, or just tug on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Have you checked for cranking spark at the coil? If there is spark at the coil but not at the plug, it's a problem with your distributor cap and rotor. As stated, it's not uncommon for the screw to come out of the rotor. If there is no spark even at the coil, it may be the ignition amplifier. A few weeks ago I had a similar problem, Car ran fine, came home, parked it, went out the next morning, it cranked, fired and died in 2 minutes and wouldnt start again. I nearly went nuts over this, thanks to the good people here I eventually figured it out, and it was the ignition amplifier transistor. Took 2 weeks to figure out and 3 minutes to fix it. On the coil bracket there is a transistor, this is the ignition amplifier. I suppose it's possible to take that transistor out of the bracket and match it up with one at radio shack and maybe fix it that way. I know the housings are riveted to the coil bracket but the transistor itself should be replaceable. Following the diagnosis procedure outlined in the manual, I would check the pickups in the distributor as well. 88RxTuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 UPDATE: First I want to thank everyone for their fast responses, great advise & suggestions. I think we may have it figured out. Took a closer look at the timing belts today after discovering the disty wasn't spinning, should have looked there earlier ... it appears that the timing idler bolt had loosened over time and what was left of the belt let go on me. Have two new belts and will be reassembling tomorrow tonight. Hopefully didn't do any major damage. I think I will leave the timing covers off in the next go around. Again thanks for all the quick responses. Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Uhhhhhhhh, Yup... Tha'd Do It... Did ya fix it? LOL seems like everyone kinda missed that one.. Occams Razor at it's best, the simplest solution is usually correct... If the dizzy aint spinning, it isn't gonna sparky.... 88RxTuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 Yeppers.. the RubyRoo is back on the road and running nekid. That way I can keep and eye on things. I think the crankshaft seal was leaking on the belts, this was further confirmed since the seal was removed with a pick tool and not a seal puller this has obviously been replaced along with the new belts. I have also ordered a pulley set off eBay. of course after I replaced the belts did I read i should have replaced the tensioner & idler too I am not sure if this is normal or not, but the drivers belt seemed to take a lot more effort to put on... I realize there are a few more pulleys to go around but compared to the passengers, which just slipped right on, it seemed a bit tougher. I followed the routing directions...was that my problem Any who, thanks to the super fast responses and wealth of knowledge here, I am back on the road. JimmyB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88RxTuner Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 It's possible you had the cam off a couple degrees which will impede the installation of the belt. I usually install the belt on the crank first, then with a wrench turn the cam the wrong way till it lines up with the closest tooth on the belt on the pulling side.. proceed to install around the rest of the stuff from there, using the wrench on the cam sprocket bolt as a "tensioning" tool to assist in the rest of them in a clockwise direction.. Glad to hear you got it running.. More effort necessary or not, the belts got on and the timing's correct, right? A success..... 88RxTuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COS87GL10 Posted March 12, 2009 Author Share Posted March 12, 2009 yes, both belts are on, timing is correct, idling nice and smooth. Now to seal up a few other minor leaks and we should be good to go. Thanks 88Rxtuner, for the tips on belt install too. I will keep that in mind for, hopefully distant, future replacement. ~JimmyB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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