dave833 Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 Sister's '98 OBW blew the HG's a few days ago (confirmed by 2 shops and my own observations). Instead of replacing the head gaskets, I agreed to swap in an EJ22 because she's terrible about maintaining cars and I figured we both might be time and money ahead with a more reliable EJ22. Her car is is an automatic, and I've got two choices right now for EJ22s-- a '97 Impreza (interference) WITH an EGR or a '96 OBW manual trans. WITHOUT an EGR. I'd prefer to put in the '96 because it's not an interference engine, but I'm concerned about it not having an EGR and wondering if it will run without throwing an EGR code in her '98-- important for passing Utah safety and emissions. I have to pick one or the other because I'll be driving the car with whatever engine I don't choose for hers. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 no egr will throw a code, does that answer your question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted March 10, 2009 Share Posted March 10, 2009 (edited) Search on here and I bet you'll find the missing EGR will throw a code...that's why the '95 Automatic w/EGR is used (learned this one the hard way). Since your sis is maintenance-challenged, you'll likely ensure whichever engine you swap in is 'good to go' for another 60- 100k anyway, so the interference issue should be moot. Make sure you get the Y-pipe for whichever you use - dual vs. single port. Good luck. Edited March 10, 2009 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Get the 97 but buy a complete timing belt kit for it off ebay. Old style will only be $80, new style will be $190 for the complete kit. All new belt and pulleys. You can even convert to the old style by swapping brackets if $100 is going to make/break you. And the old style is more reliable anyway. I've done it and i'm currently driving one with EGR. EGR = less reliable so it's a nice move if you don't have to worry about emissions. You could splice the EGR solenoid in place and plug it in (without actually being connected to anything) in order to pass emissions, since they don't do anything but "look for codes", this would satisfy that. But i'm sure you're not interested in all of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hankosolder2 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 I'm going to have to differ from Gary on this. The ECM checks for the presence of the EGR solenoid (by measuring its current draw) so yes, you can fake that out. However, the ECM also checks for actual EGR flow and will set a code if there's not actual flow through the EGR system. I believe this is sensed by the MAP sensor...i.e. the vaccum in the intake manifold drops when the EGR valve opens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 I think the intakes are interchangeable on those engines. You could drill and tap the non-egr head, the blank is right in the head with a pilot hole half drilled. Then just swap the intakes. The tube connecting the intake to the head is a _itch!! You'll need lots of PB Blaster and good flare wrenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 Hank, good point, i'm not sure of that. i have heard other folks say you can do it but haven't tried myself. it still might work, just depends how it operates. the ECM does detect cetain parameters and then activates the solenoid. the solenoid would be hooked up and would actuate, it just wouldn't have any hoses on it. i don't think that solenoid would trip a code, but maybe something else would? The tube connecting the intake to the head is a _itch!! You'll need lots of PB Blaster and good flare wrenches.he doesn't live in the rust belt like us....i mean as hard as it is for me to imagine that thing not being a pain like you said...."THEY SAY"...those west coast people, that rust is much better out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash321 Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 i'm going to have to differ from gary on this. The ecm checks for the presence of the egr solenoid (by measuring its current draw) so yes, you can fake that out. However, the ecm also checks for actual egr flow and will set a code if there's not actual flow through the egr system. I believe this is sensed by the map sensor...i.e. The vaccum in the intake manifold drops when the egr valve opens. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted March 11, 2009 Share Posted March 11, 2009 +1 Yes, see P0400 info in http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Emissions.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountaingoatgruff Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 "THEY SAY"...those west coast people, that rust is much better out there i just pulled the egr pipe off a 97 EJ22 a few weeks ago. 180k miles, kept clean with degreaser and a garden hose and still not a speck of rust, came off easy. you rust belt guys would cry if you looked under my cars, but i pay for it in emissions headaches... as far as the whole egr question, i'd say just add it to the 97 like screwbaru2 said. my hatch's 97 longblock has a 95 intake on it and the 95 longblock in my wife's 97 OBS has the car's original 97 intake so intakes are obviously interchangeable. i redrilled and tapped the egr port in my hatch's EJ to plug it (m/t w/ non-egr ecm). 97 EJ22's have a bit more hp than older ones, too. if you go w/ the 97, adjust the valves while its easy to get to, 100k mile service interval iirc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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