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Duralast clutch


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Can anyone tell me if a Duralast clutch is good? It's for a 2WD 1986 Standard, so I don't need a high performance one. I just want to get one that's good quality. I can get it for $80 (new, not remanned or relined). The others are a Borg-Warner for $90 or an Exedy for $113. Thanks for any info.

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I bought one (autozone) once it ended up not being the right one, so I took it back after getting a Luk clutch for about $35 more from a local import specialty place. The difference in quality was pretty big. If you drive your car a little here and there it would probably be fine, but I vowed never to buy another. Life-time warrenty or not. Though I never used it it looked real cheap next to that Luk set. Even the pilot looked cheap.

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Can anyone tell me if a Duralast clutch is good? It's for a 2WD 1986 Standard, so I don't need a high performance one. I just want to get one that's good quality. I can get it for $80 (new, not remanned or relined). The others are a Borg-Warner for $90 or an Exedy for $113. Thanks for any info.

 

Hi,

 

Another option. Rock Auto.

 

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0619205 MoreInfo.gif

Clutch Set, 200mm Diameter;7-7/8" Diameter;21 Splines;1 Per Car

200mm Diameter;1 Per Car [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty (Only 19 Remaining)]0619205.jpg

$54.79$0.00$54.79

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Wow, that's a great deal. Is that a good brand? And, thanks for the info about the Duralast. That's exactly what I wanted to know. Like I said, I don't nedd a high performance clutch, but I do need one that will last in a daily driver.

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Duralast=Crap ValueCraft=Crap, When I worked for Autozone There were probably over 100 warranty's a day.

 

 

Beck Arnley = $$$ Same thing as ValueCraft (same Manufacturer)

Fenco Decent.

 

 

out of all of them I would go to the Dealership and see if replacement parts are available... and replace only what you need. Most likely only the throw out bearing and the disk. and just clean up the Pressure plate and the flywheel as long as they are not Massively cracked.

 

 

My .02

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Duralast=Crap ValueCraft=Crap, When I worked for Autozone There were probably over 100 warranty's a day.

 

 

Beck Arnley = $$$ Same thing as ValueCraft (same Manufacturer)

Fenco Decent.

 

 

out of all of them I would go to the Dealership and see if replacement parts are available... and replace only what you need. Most likely only the throw out bearing and the disk. and just clean up the Pressure plate and the flywheel as long as they are not Massively cracked.

 

 

My .02

 

Hi XOOMER,

 

From the notes on my B/A clutch kit:

 

Disc-Japan Mfg. NKK

Presure plate-England. Not sure of the mfg.

Release bearing-USA. Mfg. SKF

Piolet bearing-Japan. Mfg. NACHI

 

I assure you it isn't junk. No matter what clutch is put in the car, it's bad advice to not have the flywheel machined. If it comes down to it, possibly void the warranty. I'm talking about for a dependable daily driver, and if you don't want to mabie end up doing the job twice, or end up living with clutch chatter or things like that.

 

I got that clutch at RA, close-out for a 4WD EA-82 for a little over $100.00 delivered.

 

Doug

Edited by Quidam
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Well, I just sell Auto Parts, And have been doing so for many years. I'm not trying to start a flame war but every time I sell a ba clutch it comes back in a couple of weeks, And I'm not talking just about DIY'ers I'm talking my installers also...

 

 

**Side note; When I sold parts for Dealerships. I also worked in the service department. 99% of the time when they replaced the clutch it was just the disk and throw out bearing unless the flywheel/pressure plate was bad. Any Crack less than an inch in the flywheel is fine, as that is normal wear. If you see a crack that is longer than an inch that is when it was machined. (I Worked for the Largest Honda Dealership this side of the Mississippi and unfortunately KIA also)

 

and from my own experience, Over the last 15 years of back yard wrenching... I have only ever replaced one entire clutch kit. it was a Autozone clutch. it was slipping within a week. I pulled it apart, took some brake clean and a dremel, and cleaned up the flywheel put the old SOA pressure plate. And just put a new disk in... and 20k later not a single bit of chatter, noise, or problems.

 

My total lesson learned.... Subaru's have it easy. I can have a new clutch in the car and back on the road with in 4 hours. so if you have a little bit of time and very little money this is the simplest way to go....

Edited by xoomer
Changing the wording.
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The idea from xoomer I like. I have a 93 legacy, just got it and doing inspection underneath, saw both axle outer boots are bad. Car only has 53K mi. Can I just buy the boots and repack and install new boots?

 

myhilo

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Hi XOOMER,

 

It's not lost on me that a new disc and TO bearing can be installed and the clutch will be fine. I've done that.

 

What occured to me this afternoon was, the mileage of the vehicle in question, how much slippage, if any has occured, and exactly why the clutch is being replaced. I know none of that.

 

I've went through clutch discs on a street small block Chevy before in 3K miles. Factory 11" discs. Of course, I was slightly younger than you at the time:)

 

So I know what you're saying in that regard.

 

Doug

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Hi XOOMER,

 

What occured to me this afternoon was, the mileage of the vehicle in question, how much slippage, if any has occured, and exactly why the clutch is being replaced. I know none of that.

 

 

141K miles, no slipping, but lots of chatter if I'm not super careful. I figured while it was out, i'd do the whole thing and save any of the old good parts just in case.

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Even if you have plenty of pedal and no noises etc, just "chatter". Be it contamination, failing pilot bearing, flywheel issues, or what ever is causing your chatter. Buy a quality kit and replace everything. Check all your mounts while your at it. This may save you from having to pull it all apart again in a year.

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