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weld rear diff


Uberoo
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the fact that the gas tank is so near, welding sparks a flying, and the fact it will have gear oil there, and the making sure you get all the welding slag and whatnot cleaned out, i would say remove the thing first.

You have to make sure there is no little slivers of anything left behind in there.

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I'd say just pull it.

Easier.

Safer.

And besides if you want to leave it in. You will have to pull the mustache bar anyway in order to remove the back cover. So you may as well just pull the diff instead and call it good.

They pop in and out pretty easy. :)

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somebody should make a "locker" setup, something that can be pushed into the spider gears to lock it, and can be removed to unlock. This device would be on a spring loaded pin system accessed from the side of the case or the rear cover plate. Push the pin in, and it locks the diff. pull the pin outward and its open again.

just a thought.

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have you ever searched for locker on this board?it has been talked about for years and years.and even looked into by engineers,machinist and the like.hell, i think a rocket scientist or two may have looked into it as well.and i am not joking.

 

it comes down to the same thing every time.money, money, money.oh, and money.

 

but i think you could do it.tell us when you have it figured out.i personally can't wait.:)cheers, brian

 

 

somebody should make a "locker" setup, something that can be pushed into the spider gears to lock it, and can be removed to unlock. This device would be on a spring loaded pin system accessed from the side of the case or the rear cover plate. Push the pin in, and it locks the diff. pull the pin outward and its open again.

just a thought.

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have you ever searched for locker on this board?it has been talked about for years and years.and even looked into by engineers,machinist and the like.hell, i think a rocket scientist or two may have looked into it as well.and i am not joking.

 

it comes down to the same thing every time.money, money, money.oh, and money.

 

but i think you could do it.tell us when you have it figured out.i personally can't wait.:)cheers, brian

 

It's easy,retrofit an R200 with an ARB e-locker.

Fab up new mounts and shafts.

Install and flick the switch.

Only around $1500-$2000 (guesstimate).

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if it is so easy,why are you not doing it in your forrester then?:)thats what i thought.......

 

oh, and we were talking about modifying the r160..........so no, not easy..

 

 

 

It's easy,retrofit an R200 with an ARB e-locker.

Fab up new mounts and shafts.

Install and flick the switch.

Only around $1500-$2000 (guesstimate).

Edited by monstaru
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well I didnt get the diff welded today. someone ran off with my tools.or at least all of the tools that I needed, like a 3/16 punch, any metric socket or wrench larger than 15mm,and beer.So I suppose I will just do it at my buddies shop before we go play on thursday...I have to go there anyway to get the rest of my tractor tires...

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if it is so easy,why are you not doing it in your forrester then?:)thats what i thought.......

 

oh, and we were talking about modifying the r160..........so no, not easy..

 

He asked about a locker.

R-200 is the ONLY way your gonna put a real locker in a Subaru.

Nobodies gonna make one for an R-160,too weak and not enough interest to produce one.

 

And as for doing a R-200 in my Forester it would be easy for me except for the $$$$$$$$.:lol:

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you just said it,in a different way than i did?huh.......

 

and it is possible to get a locker for the r180....they are just out of production.if someone had one lyin around.that would be easy too.......so it is not the ONLY way.

 

everything can be easier with money....cheers, brian

 

 

He asked about a locker.

R-200 is the ONLY way your gonna put a real locker in a Subaru.

Nobodies gonna make one for an R-160,too weak and not enough interest to produce one.

 

And as for doing a R-200 in my Forester it would be easy for me except for the $$$$$$$$.:lol:

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you just said it,in a different way than i did?huh.......

 

and it is possible to get a locker for the r180....they are just out of production.if someone had one lyin around.that would be easy too.......so it is not the ONLY way.

 

everything can be easier with money....cheers, brian

 

Who makes a locker for the R-180?

I've run across a couple of them in my wanderings,should have picked one up.

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It would probably be cheaper and easier to go with a straight axle and install a electric locker in that.

 

Gee, I wonder who did that? :rolleyes:

 

 

(No, it wasnt me)

 

Not looking to mod it that much (although I've considered it).

Really want to retain as much of the drivetrain as possible,just want to take it as far as I can.

Thought about welding the rear diff and fabbing up a wheel locker on one side so a rear wheel could be disconnected on street (still considering that one).

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arb manufactured one at one point.but no more, at least not available in the US anymore...would have to find one used.cheers, brian

 

 

Who makes a locker for the R-180?

I've run across a couple of them in my wanderings,should have picked one up.

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well like stated above, the roo's have the mustache bar that has to come off. I know on BMW's which is where im from, we just pop the cover off. one can of brake cleaner to get the gear oil off, weld it up, once can of brake cleaner to clean it all out.. some 80-90 and your on your way to some autozone lifetime warranty axles..

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okay, i agree that there should be a manufactored locker for soobs somewhere out there in tv land. too bad a spool wouldn't fit in it, but wait what all goes into a spool. couldn't we make one somehow??? i am gonna look into spools,if i could get my hands on a blue print of a couple different soob rear ends and then an autocad program i could possible come up with something. :grin:

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