?Need Help Replacing 98 Legacy Engine?

[Equalizer]

Hi Guys, (and Gals),

 

While on the hwy one day, my engine died. It looks like the bottom pully bearing (steel one) on my timing belt seized, and a plastic gear shattered, throwing my timing belt. The mechanic replaced three gears, (another one chipped), and the timing belt. Now it idles rough, so he suspects one or more valves are bent. So far there's only $100 in it for this issue.

 

Less than 2 years ago, (under 10,000mi.), he replaced all of the engine seals, gaskets, including leaking head gaskets, clutch, and h2o pump. I check the fluid levels, and condition at every fill up and drive like a 79 yr old widow, so I don't have any reason to think that the engine overheated. The gauge has been normal. However, there's been air bubbles in the overflow coolant tank and some coolant loss, so a head must be leaking already; otherwise I might opt for a valve job, and have them all replaced. The shop has a very good reputation and has treated me, my family and friends right over the years, and I don't blame them for the issue. I'm just trying to give some history to this engine and why I'm hessitant to throw more good money at a bad motor. That said, my options seem to be:

 

A. Buy a used, or rebuilt (low cost) EJ 2.2 L to replace the 2.5 in my heavy Legacy Outback. Since I drive like an old widow, I might be able to deal with a weaker engine on our steep hills and traffic for a while. If I go this route, what sources can you recommend and are there any changes that need made to adapt this engine?

 

OR

 

B. Get a rebuilt 98 2.5 L engine and hope that the new version of head gaskets hold up better than the new version head gaskets in the existing one. I've checked prices and so far can't find anything reasonable.

Open to suggestions. :-\

 

I need a job right now, so my only option seems to be get this car repaired, or get a cheap high mileage car in need of TLC.

 

THANKS!

Frank

[lmdew]

Get a used lower mile 95 2.2 from a car with a auto trans, which will have the EGR valve.

 

Do the Timing belt, cam and crank seals before you put it in and it will be good for another 100K.

 

http://www.car-part.com

http://www.junkyarddog.com

 

are two good JY search engines.

[subaru360]

The newest part number head gaskets from Subaru don't fail again. The 2.2 is also a good option. You don't even notice the difference in power when driving an outback with a 2.2 swap.

[Equalizer]

Get a used lower mile 95 2.2 from a car with a auto trans, which will have the EGR valve.

 

Do the Timing belt, cam and crank seals before you put it in and it will be good for another 100K.

 

www.car-part.com

www.junkyarddog.com

 

are two good JY search engines.

 

 

Thanks Imdew!

Is there anything special about the 95 vintage 2.2, or will any 2.2 w/automatic tranny work?

Are any mods necessary, or should it just plug right in with existing hardware?

 

Subaru 360,

I was told that they used the last generation upgraded headgaskets. IMHO, even an original HG would have held up way beyond 10,000mi. Any other possibilities?

 

Frank

[subaru360]

Lots of things could have gone wrong with the head gaskets. Sometimes the block or heads get pitted when the gaskets go bad. The block and head can warp, but it takes a lot to warp the heads, they are real short. If it got hot enough to warp parts, IMO it shouldn't have been fixed.

 

95 2.2 automatic is the easiest year to use since it all just plugs in and bolts on, except two small tabs on the P/S hoses that don't really matter anyway.

 

You can use 96-98 2.2 automatic engines as well, but you will need the matching single port exhaust y-pipe.

 

The 2.2 engine you get needs to be from an automatic car so it has an EGR valve and you don't have a check engine light for missing EGR.

[Equalizer]

Subaru 360 and Imdew,

 

It sounds like you guys have done this job a time or two.....

 

Lots of things could have gone wrong with the head gaskets. Sometimes the block or heads get pitted when the gaskets go bad. The block and head can warp, but it takes a lot to warp the heads, they are real short. If it got hot enough to warp parts, IMO it shouldn't have been fixed.

 

That was an issue of concern that I brought up at the time. There's a local machine shop that trues heads all the time that was available if needed. I didn't check it, but trust that my mechanic did when he got it on the bench. For future reference, since this is such a common problem and I send lots of friends there for work, do you know of any other reason why it shouldn't have been fixed if the heads warp? I've learned that a common problem with this job is reusing the old bolts and not having the torque right due to thread stretch. As much as I'm tempted to just get a full valve job and get the bolts replaced, I'm guessing that it would involve a full head gasket job and be back where I started from and more than what I'd put into a used 2.2......Just thinking out loud. No, I've decided to with your advice and keep looking for a low milage 2.2.

 

95 2.2 automatic is the easiest year to use since it all just plugs in and bolts on, except two small tabs on the P/S hoses that don't really matter anyway.

 

You can use 96-98 2.2 automatic engines as well, but you will need the matching single port exhaust y-pipe.

 

The 2.2 engine you get needs to be from an automatic car so it has an EGR valve and you don't have a check engine light for missing EGR.

 

Thanks again for the details!

 

-Frank