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The clamps are your friend. And will stop the belt from jumping on the teeth of the cams and crank. I do the passenger side last (which isn't under any load). If it does move the drivers side or the crank the clamps still hold the belt inplace and you'll be o.k.

 

The clamps don't stop the belt from moving. It just stops the belt from moving and becoming mis-aligned to the sprocket(s). When you are all done, and turn the crank if necessary a little bit - all 3 should be ligned up. Install the last idler, pull the tensioner pin - you're all done. Remove the clamps.

 

I turn it over atleast twice by hand to make sure the marks still lign up.

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thank you everyone for taking the time helping me with my first timing belt change I really appreciate it!

 

Not meaning to sound harsh here, 1-3-2-4, but does your user name indicate your approach to projects?

 

Before you started did you do any reading or studying about replacing a timing belt on a Subie? There is a ton of wonderfully thorough and helpful information here on USMB and in Endwrench and other articles that address almost every difficulty/concern/frustration that you faced.

 

USMB folks are tremendously pleasant and helpful (as you can see in this thread) but it really helps if you do a little searching and reading before you start a major project. Then ask questions.

 

Just a friendly suggestion. Good luck in the future.

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Not meaning to sound harsh here, 1-3-2-4, but does your user name indicate your approach to projects?

 

Before you started did you do any reading or studying about replacing a timing belt on a Subie? There is a ton of wonderfully thorough and helpful information here on USMB and in Endwrench and other articles that address almost every difficulty/concern/frustration that you faced.

 

USMB folks are tremendously pleasant and helpful (as you can see in this thread) but it really helps if you do a little searching and reading before you start a major project. Then ask questions.

 

Just a friendly suggestion. Good luck in the future.

 

I knew this was going to come sooner or later...

 

but I have the whole Factory Service Manual.. I printed two copies of the End wrench for the 2.2L So how could it take me so long you ask? I missed the part about the crank hash mark...

 

I sure do know about it now! and trust me I did search here, NASIOC, and SLi for my answers :)

 

I know it might be a case of "he has a long post count so he must not know anything" thing...

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Sorry if I sounded overly critical, 1-3-2-4. And don't let me scare you away from asking questions in the future. That's pretty much why we're all here, to help each other--and learn!

 

And the "long post count" simply says people are eager to offer a hand.

 

Main thing is you got the help you needed and, hopefully, a properly timed engine.

 

Good luck!

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Sorry if I sounded overly critical, 1-3-2-4. And don't let me scare you away from asking questions in the future. That's pretty much why we're all here, to help each other--and learn!

 

And the "long post count" simply says people are eager to offer a hand.

 

Main thing is you got the help you needed and, hopefully, a properly timed engine.

 

Good luck!

 

 

the engine is good but my heart just about stopped when I started pouring antifreeze in and it was pouring like crazy from the thermostat housing.. upon inspecting up close it seems like the thermostat housing is the one that is leaking... right now it's almost a steady pour (I used a new gasket)

 

Is it possible for them to fail and leak like this?

 

*edit

 

wooops I forgot the gasket goes AROUND the thermostat and not above it..

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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yeah everything is ok no leaks and I took it out on the highway.. what I do need now is some new bolts to hold down the part that goes over the top of the radiator since I had about 4 bolts that snapped because of rust/old age. not sure what the size is of that bolt

 

 

Also I think setting the timing after I did the water pump change fixed a issue I was having before I did the belt.. no one knew what it was.. what happens is right after you start the car up it would run rough and if you gave it a little throttle the car would shack and the engine would sound almost like it's retarding the spark but then it would go away within a few seconds..

 

Now that I set the timing I have not heard or felt this yet but I will check in the morning when the motor is cold...

 

Still getting the CEL for the knock sensor but I know how to replace that one :)

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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