CNY_Dave Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I don't have corrosion on the outer surface of the rim, or in the tire bead mounting area, but I do have some where the wheel attaches to the hub. I'm looking to extend the wheel life as far as I can. I'm thinking of hitting it with the pressure washer (no detergent), wire brushing anything loose, and pressure washing again. Is hitting it with some mild acid going to help arrest the corrosion? Once totally dry, not sure if I'm going to hit it with some aluminum primer, or just let it go commando with some anti-seize brushed on to help seal the surface a bit. Thoughts/suggestions? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 This is something we fight with in the shop ALL the time. Corrosion on alloy rims is just like the rust on steel panels. Dont matter WHAT you do, its gonna come back. We brighten up the hubs and wheels with a roloc disc, and re-assemble. Antiseize definitely helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Clean/brush/antiseize. Age old problem with no good solution. I would imagine any paint (unless left forever to dry) would just cause a different sticking problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Anyone out there know of a zinc-based anti-seize available at napa, autozone, etc? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) No but I'm about due to get more. Both of my old cans are about empty - it's amazing how long it lasts. I know they now make a higher temperature one that has a bit of a bronze tint that I was thinking about getting for the glow plugs on diesel cars. Don't know about a zinc one though. I'd look at permatex.com or something, Google zink anti-seize, whatever. You thinking zinc plays well with steel and aluminum? Link to permatex about nickel product: http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/auto_Permatex_Nickel_Anti-Seize_Lubricant.htm Edited April 6, 2009 by davebugs added link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Zinc is the recc. base for a steel-aluminum interface, I have found out today. There is a 25 buck pound bucket on the web: http://www.restockit.com/1-lb-Zinc-Anti-seize-(442-39901).html?source=froogle&Bvar5=100F1&Bvar6=100F1&Bvar7=100F1 but I don't know what else the zinc-based stuff is good for. Copper based is supposedly bad for AL. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 I always lightly take a scotch brite pad on my cordless drill and take all the corrosion off. Then I take a light coat of never seize and apply that to the wheel where it meets the hub. It seems to work pretty well and lasts quite a while. And the best part is no more alloy wheels loosening up after time, and you don't ever have to retorque them like a lot of people say to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 I always lightly take a scotch brite pad on my cordless drill and take all the corrosion off. Then I take a light coat of never seize and apply that to the wheel where it meets the hub. It seems to work pretty well and lasts quite a while. And the best part is no more alloy wheels loosening up after time, and you don't ever have to retorque them like a lot of people say to do. Mine are far enough gone that if you just whack on the lug nuts with an air gun it's not quite centered, ease them on one at a time in sequence and it's just fine. Hopefully now that I have winter steelies, the corrosion rate (over a year) will be much less. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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