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EA82 Not Firing


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i checked just about everything on the 94 loyale and it wont fire

 

gets fuel and Spark

 

Timing Belts timing is dead on. disty replaced New

changed spark plugs from bosch to NGK

 

i do have a timing light but dunno if it works. found it in the garage

and dunno how to use it.

 

anyone have an idea why its not firing :confused:

 

my father and i are burned out on what to do to get it running again

 

it did run before i bought it. i even drove it up on the trailer. next day it just didnt want to start :confused:

 

video of it running before i bought it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR1umaVPLlU

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Has spark and fuel and ran before you replaced the distributor. Appears to me you screwed up reinstalling the distributor.

 

To use a timing light, connect the red lead to the positive side of the battery and the black to ground. The unused lead gets clamped around #1 spark plug wire.

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If the only thing you did was replace the disty then I would say you either don't have the timing rights or you didn't get the plug wires connected correctly. I assume you checked the wires to make sure they are correct and are set in the correct positions. I think the rotor moves counter clock wise.

 

Another thing you can do to see if the timing is slightly off is first mark the disty position relative to a fixed point and then loosen the adjustment for it. Then while someone is cranking the engine move the disty position one way or the other and see if you can get the engine to fire. You may be a tooth off on the position.

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Has spark and fuel and ran before you replaced the distributor. Appears to me you screwed up reinstalling the distributor.

 

To use a timing light, connect the red lead to the positive side of the battery and the black to ground. The unused lead gets clamped around #1 spark plug wire.

 

i only changed the cap because it wouldn't start.

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i would think so. but i do not get any combustion.

 

i checked for error codes and i got

 

14 & 34

 

34 is EGR solenoid. no big deal, not your starting issue.

 

14 is for the injector. Test between the 2 terminals of the injector, should be between 0.5 and 2 Ohms. Good, Ok

 

now test between each terminal and body ground. No continuity? good, ok

 

If that all tests good, you could disconnect the ECU harness connectors and repeat the first test on pins 43 and 48 (RW and RB) Basically the same test but through the whole length of wire to determine if the wiring harness is intact. Again, between .5 and 2 ohms.

 

Then again, some *ghost* codes come up with the key on, eng. off. Like 12 and 13, never seen 14 but..... if you don't have it while the car is running it was probably a ghost code.

 

You could also try putting a screwdriver up to your ear and against the injector and crank the engine. Listen for the injector to click. no click, no injection.

 

If that is the case hook a test light to the pos side of the battery and probe the RB (-) wire while cranking the engine. If the light doesn't pulse a bit, then no signal is coming from the ECU. Disy would be the next place to look.

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did you put the disty in, there are different timing marks on the flywheel, they mean different things

 

thats the original disty. i never took it out.

 

i lined them up at the "0" mark and put #1 plug were the disty button was pointing.

like Huck Said.

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Have you checked to see you have the plugwires in the correct positions? I think the firing order is 1-3-2-4. Number 1 plug is in front on the passenger side and number 3 is behind it. Number 2 is in front on the driver side and 4 behind it. I would say the problem is that or you have a broken timing belt. Have you checked compression?

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Have you checked to see you have the plugwires in the correct positions? I think the firing order is 1-3-2-4. Number 1 plug is in front on the passenger side and number 3 is behind it. Number 2 is in front on the driver side and 4 behind it. I would say the problem is that or you have a broken timing belt. Have you checked compression?

 

timing belts are fine.

no didn't check compression.

will saturday

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Check disty timing.

Put #1 cylinder at TDC. Pull the spark plug and put your finger over the hole, turn engine over with socket on crank pulley bolt until you feel the air pushing on your finger. Then align the timing pointer to "0" on the flywheel.

 

Cylinders:

3----4

1----2

 

Disty cap;

--1--

3---4

--2--

 

Rotor should be pointing at #1 plug tower on the cap. Plug wires in proper rotation.

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After going over this again I think I now know what went wrong. You stated, "I lined them up at the "0" mark and put #1 plug were the disty button was pointing." Well, that '0' mark can still mean the disty rotor position is 180 degrees out from where it should be. Connect the plug wires in the opposite holes of the cap and start the engine.

Edited by Cougar
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... that '0' mark can still mean the disty rotor position is 180 degrees out from where it should be. ...

 

I Agree, also I want to Suggest that when you are Sure that everything is Lined and the Engine Still Doesn`t Fire: Move the Timing on the Disty to Around +/- 20º and Try Again. I Believe that you tried to Start it at 0º

 

Good Luck!

 

Kind Regards.

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I Agree, also I want to Suggest that when you are Sure that everything is Lined and the Engine Still Doesn`t Fire: Move the Timing on the Disty to Around +/- 20º and Try Again. I Believe that you tried to Start it at 0º

 

Good Luck!

 

Kind Regards.

 

i never moved the disty. because it ran in that spot.

on the fly wheel i tried starting it at "0" mr.radon said to turn it to 20degre

i will be trying next.

 

my uncle tex i told him about it. he said it sounds like the spark isnt hot enough to combust the gas. and the way to fix it is a tune up.

 

but i took working tune up parts out of another. :confused:

 

i will be buy new plugs,wires and disty rotor.

 

will also try the 20degree

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Subex,

 

You stated you didn't move the disty but at anytime did you move the crankshaft? If you did move it and didn't keep track of the rotor position then I believe you will find moving the plug wires to the opposite positions in the cap will get you going.

 

Since you stated that the disty wasn't moved then I would not touch it. The only way the timing can change without moving the disty is to have a timing belt slip.

Edited by Cougar
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Subex,

 

You stated you didn't move the disty but at anytime did move the crankshaft? If you did move it and didn't keep track of the rotor position then I believe you will find moving the plug wires to the opposite positions in the cap will get you going.

 

Since you stated that the disty wasn't moved then I would not touch it. The only way the timing can change without moving the disty is to have a timing belt slip.

 

yeah i didnt move it.

crank shaft yes

 

timing belts are dead on and i never moved them either.

 

i did not move the fallowing:

 

Cams

Distributer

Timing Belts

 

omg i think i know what i did wrong this hole time.

omfg i'm such an idiot. if the problem is what i think it is

 

Then you all can Slap me up side the head. and say thanks for wasting my time.

 

 

BTW

 

Whats the Compression suppose to be ? when testing the compression

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