subiemech85 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) YES, it is the oilpan gasket leaking tightened the bolts, but it still leaks about 2 qt in 300 miles is it possible to replace the oilpan gasket without pulling the engine? Edited April 13, 2009 by subiemech85 done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 You would at least have to unbolt and "lift" the engine away from the crossmember... I guess it doesnt count as pulling the engine if you dont take it out of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 could I also LOWER the crossmember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I would think lowering the x member would be MORE work. You would STILL have to undo the engine mounts in order to get the engine away from the crossmember. You wont need a lot of clearance, but you will need more than is there I believe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 I am fairly familiar with pulling engines, have done 5+ different cars in various ways x-mem is 4 bolts plan of attack is set on 4 jackstands, remove engine mount nuts from x-mem, remove 4 x-mem bolts and A-bar, then remove 12? oilpan bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I have actually tired this on a gen 1 brat, no less. Unless you have the hands of a tiny Japanese geisha or the patience of, I don't know, something/one who is really patient, you will be very angry in no time. There isn't any way to do it without lifting/ removing the engine. I got it done, but I was working with a friend and it took the better part of an all-nighter and some of the next day. If you can pull the engine or drop the engine crossmember, do it. It will save you time, blood, frustration and a host of four-letter words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 SMALL hands AMAZING patience HEATED garage all-nighter with sirius-xm 60's on 6 good things WILL happen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 think my ea81 had 19 bolts for the oil pan...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Get a tube of fuji bond from Subaru. They may call it 3 bond at your local dealer. Its probably 25 bucks but good stuff. Ditch the cork gasket and use that. All the new Subaru's do from the factory and they don't leak at the pan gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 thanks for the tip it wouldn't be a true restoration WITHOUT the gasket :-\ perhaps a ea82t I am rebuilding will get the goo last pan gasket I did on the ea81 brat engine which is in the '86 gl-10 turbowagon has not leaked in over 5 years!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 Get a tube of fuji bond from Subaru. Shawn has a real good point here. All of the oil pan re-seals we do get this stuff... and we're a dealer. Cant believe I didnt suggest this. The part # is 004403007 if you are interested... and the cost for a tube is 27.20 to be exact. It is REALLY good stuff- you wont be dissapointed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 the cork gasket is like 3.02 at rockauto compared to the tube. I used cork and some brush on gasket sealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backwoodsboy Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 The cork gasket IS cheaper (by far) .... AND more "original restoration" ... but the advantage of the tube sealer is that you dont have to snake the oil pan all the way out. Just undo the bolts, break up the old pan gasket (clean!) ... squirt the goo on the pan and send the bolts home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 probably would have been faster to remove engine, but not as fun yes, it is possible to replace oil pan gasket without removing or raising the engine also good to have other projects that involve a hammer while doing this job, and take breaks drain oil raise front and set on jackstands remove front tires, 4 nuts, etc holding on x-mem and A-bar, engine mount nuts and one engine mount assy., 19 bolts use 1/4" drive u-joint, short 10mm socket, extensions and ratchet for the rear bolts use small rubber hammer, mine came from $1 tree, to break seal and remove pan pilot point bolts, for the rear, make installation easier ea71 pan mount flange is definately larger than ea82 yes, I know TTIWWOP, WILL be posted later when I've nothing else better to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 the cork gasket is like 3.02 at rockautocompared to the tube. I used cork and some brush on gasket sealer I couldn't agree more but sometimes technology can go into a restoration without compromising it. Also, that rockauto gasket isnt a genuine subaru part and the tube of fuji bond is so where do you draw the line? Also...would a restoration leak oil? As "notorious" as these Subaru engines are for leaking oil with proper technique and materials they don't have to. I am not saying Subiemech didnt use the propers here just my opinion on how I rationalize things when I repair my turbo brat and other older vehicles that might be considered by some to be collector cars or future collector cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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