Markus56 Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 (edited) On my 85 wagon with a 2-3 inch lift, my front tires have camber issues. I have the angled lift blocks on front, which helps, but is not enough. Also, the passenger side is more angled than the driver side, and i have no idea why. I bought the tires in August and they are already bald on the outside. GAHHHH What would be an effective way to correct the camber that an amateur high school mechanic would be able to do? Thanks! John Pic: Edited April 9, 2009 by Markus56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 are you sure the blocks are in the right oreintation, 15 degree off set ? that much lift shouldnt cause a massive amount of camber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 Yes, it was cut to 15 degrees. Maybe if I made another lift with more angle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 I have heard of people lengthening the control arms, if you have access to a metal saw and a welder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 that looks like a lot of angle on the axles. No crossmember blocks? Won't this kill the axles kinda like it killed your tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Share Posted April 9, 2009 haven't heard of cross member blocks... what are they and what does it take to make them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 haven't heard of cross member blocks... what are they and what does it take to make them? You have a suspension lift, so everything is lifted 2 inches. That's why the extreme angle of the axle, and bad camber. Cross member blocks simply lower the engine and transmission by whatever size that you use, therefore correcting camber. Maybe you can fab up some blocks, using the same 2" tubing as on your struts, or 1" to stay 1" over stock for better clearance. That said, it should be well designed and strong to hold that kind of weight. Are your strut adjusters all the way down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted April 10, 2009 Author Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) No, they aren't, because otherwise the car is noticeably angled downward in the front. I only have adjusters in the front so i wouldn't be able to drop the rear any without having to completely redo the rear lift. I know that one eye is running a 2 inch lift with the adjusters extended on his wheeler wagon without crossmember blocks and is doing fine. Edited April 10, 2009 by Markus56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 John, It looks to me like you have both a caster, and camber issue. Make sure that the blocks you cut are at 15*, and that the top of your strut is position DIRECTLY inboard (towards the engine) from stock. Any positioning towards the front or back will create problems. I've seen a few people install the rear out-board block of the front lift backwards, and it creates MASSIVE caster/camber problems. If the top of the strut is positioned any other way than directly inboard from stock; something in your lift is incorrect. If you can get some detailed pictures it would help diagnosing your problems. Other than that; the 15* degree 2" lift has worked well on all of the vehicles that I have seen with them. You don't really need ANY crossmember blocks with this design of lift, that is kinda the whole point of it. It's not the perfect lift, but, it is great for it's simplicity. Especially on a wheeler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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