Spiffy Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 ok, so I was following GD's thread about the sorbid tale of hitachi love and wanted some clarification on what all this junk is... his thermo vacuum valve has two lines... I have two valves... the one on the driver side of the manifold has three lines, and the one on the passenger side has two lines... mine don't look quite like his picture... my car is an '82 GL... driver's side: the three lines go directly into hard lines... can I plug all of these? one of them ties into a line back to the evap canister by the wheel well... one of them ties into the disty line and the carb vac... don't remember where the other one went... passenger side: one of these went to the air cleaner and the other went to a hard line with a cap on the other end... another vac line next to it that also went to the air cleaner seems to be rusted shut and I can't find where it goes (stupid plastic carb shielding)... you can see it there at the bottom of the pic to the left of the disty line... it seems to me that anything connected to hard vac line could be removed and the disty line taken directly to one of the vac lines on the front of the carb (probably the port it currently hooks into with the hard line and canister line)... ... his thread also mentions air control valves and later the metering port vacuum control valves so I assume these are the same things... however, I don't have the two little round jobbers, I've got one large canister looking thing with four lines going to two solenoids that are wired... my setup: you can see the canister thing on the left with two lines from the middle and two on top... they run into those wired towers in the middle and are connected to the spade plugs on the lower right... three of the lines run to those towers, and one runs to the carb... and one of the tower lines runs to a similar port on the other side of the carb... these seem like they could be the metering ports... dunno... ... so, can I just remove all of these systems and still function normally? hard vac lines, canister thing, towers and wiring, and thermo vacuum valves? if so do I just plug the carb ports and evap canister vac link? I think a weber would be so much simpler... (: --Spiffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 I always take every vac. line off, every canister and anything else I can find, except for the choke, cabin controls and the vac advance hose. Always run great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Your's is much more complex because you have a feedback EA81. Eliminating all that stuff, while possible, will drop your fuel mileage through the floor as the feedback system will not be able to accurately meter the fuel. The carb is jetted differently to accomidate the feedback control system - it's jetted rich and the feedback system meter's air to the air correctors to lean it out for proper operation. Without the feedback computer metering the air you get full rich operation all the time. Your options are: 1: Rejet the carb to non-feedback specs. 2: Weber. 3: SPFI. If you choose #1 you can replumb the carb as in my previous post to operate without the extra plubming and components. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Go with what GD says, he knows better. I just felt bad that no one answered you yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiffy Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Go with what GD says, he knows better. I just felt bad that no one answered you yet. although I liked your answer better, GD is a god among the hitachi... I was just hoping for a better answer, but I was already eying the weber swap... (: and yeah, it took a while to get an answer... thought it'd be an easy one for all the pros on this board that have seen a million engine bays... I already consider my mileage to be bad, although it's 20mpg... I guess it could be worse after reading some other threads... just trying to cut down on engine clutter and get rid of the cold start issue I have where I need to keep it floored and basically flood it until it warms up so it will idle... it wasn't always like that... I think the freezing wisconsin temps are making it mad... I'd rejet my carb but the only other one I have is probably also a feedback one, so I have no extra jets laying around... --Spiffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I already consider my mileage to be bad, although it's 20mpg... I guess it could be worse after reading some other threads... Mileage should be around 27 to 30 with a properly operating feedback system. Although there are other factors - the engine in my hatch (which I drive almost daily - 230k on it) has low compression in the #2 cylinder and gets the same with the Weber it has now as it did with the Hitachi that I used to write the post that you refered to above. It's right at 25 MPG either way due to the low cylinder. just trying to cut down on engine clutter and get rid of the cold start issue I have where I need to keep it floored and basically flood it until it warms up so it will idle... it wasn't always like that... I think the freezing wisconsin temps are making it mad... Sounds like your choke is not working or your high-idle adjustment is out. It should idle around 1500 RPM till it warms up. I'd rejet my carb but the only other one I have is probably also a feedback one, so I have no extra jets laying around... Frankly unless you have the capitol to spend on a Redline Weber kit, I would probably rejet the carb you have or find another Hitachi that's not a feedback model. If you can find one with a good throttle shaft that would be ideal. I might be able to scrounge together a set of jets for you but I'll have to look at what I have. I'm really moving away from carbs altogether as the supply of SPFI parts around here is excelent and the prices are insanely low - all our u-pick yards changed ownership and the prices went way down. And when those parts run out the future for me is all EJ engines in my EA bodies anyway. I'm building one last EA81 because I already have all the parts besides the cam - after that it's just not worth the bother with all the EJ22's out there for dirt cheap. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiffy Posted April 13, 2009 Author Share Posted April 13, 2009 guess I'll just piece it back together for now... it'll work until I get back to Portland... I'm sure something isn't working right with it... if it needs good feedback I think the already disconnected parts are crippling it... ideally I'd like to go SPFI... but it'd be quite the task for me... I read your guide again last night... at least you have everything laid out nice to follow along... sounds like it would be ideal to have a donor car on hand... maybe I'll just spend the $200 on a used weber kit... but I'd like to take some crazy angles off-road and don't want to worry about stalling at the wrong angle... --Spiffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opus Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 Why dont you just find a non-feedback Hitachi and call it good?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 maybe I'll just spend the $200 on a used weber kit... but I'd like to take some crazy angles off-road and don't want to worry about stalling at the wrong angle... On the one hand I'll say that you are correct to a point on the angle issue but you REALLY have to be at bad angles for the Weber to stall out. Mostly you just lose a bit of power. I've always been able to drive away - except when some debris gets stuck in the air corrector's. I would caution you on used Weber's - they are mostly a fun guessing game concerning what the previous mechanic's that owned it did to it/with it. They often have bad throttle shaft bushings and weird jetting issues. Even the new one's aren't immune to these issues, but at least you won't have worn out parts. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiffy Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 I keep hearing that the cars with feedback carbs had an O2 sensor... I don't have an O2 sensor... that can't be good if the feedback system is looking for that... so am I really supposed to have one? I'm sure my y-pipe was probably swapped out at some point... guess I could go searching for a loose wire down there... I've got an extra y-pipe with an O2 sensor but I need to have a flange put on it... --Spiffy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 so am I really supposed to have one? Yeah - if you want the feedback to function it really has to be there. That's it's primary sensor and without it you are pretty much at full rich again. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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