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broke timing belt on 99 Forester HELP !!


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Well define "break the timing belt" Sometimes a break is much more forgiving then a jumped timing belt. Either way get the timing marks lined up and get a compression test, as you may have lucked out.

 

 

Maybe.

 

 

nipper

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Love it where we get to GUESS where you're at.

 

Are you in the witness protection plan or something?

 

Welcome to the board but please update your profile.

 

I have a 99 2.5 SOHC from a Forester here that has bad bearings. You're gonna need valve work or another head.

 

Others here may have parts and/or expertise locally as well.

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This isn't how everyone does it.

 

I ALWAYS pull the engine. Look for marks on the pistons. If any marks I get a different engine. If not it's weasier to work on and I think it's easier to do a better job of surface preperation on the engine, seal the baffle plate(should be aluminum on your engine), oil pump screws Oring, seals, etc. Not to mention the whole torqueing procedure

 

YOU MUST USE SUBY HEAD GASKETS!!

 

Some folks reuse the engine even if piston(s) have marks in them. I generally sell what I fix and don't want any issues (never had any - knock on wood). If it were my personal car I might chance it - but probably not.

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a friend replaced two bent valves in this kind of situation. timing belt broke and he said "it wasn't that bad". replaced the two valves and that was it. that would be cheaper than used heads, but that's not a terrible option either if you can find a reasonable deal within your budget.

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Timing belt broke on 99 Forester SOHC 2.5. Replaced everything and now hard to start and rough idle. Cams and valves turn very smoothly and crank also. Belt did not match timing marks exactly. How do I reset the timing correctly ?

 

Did you have the belt on so the words on the belt were right side up? If you put it on backwards, they won't line up correctly. Also, make sure you are using the correct timing mark on the crankshaft, on the rear of the crank sprocket there are several teeth for the crank position sensor, one of these has a notch in it, that is the mark you want to line up with the center (dotted) line on the timing belt.

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Going by the marks on the belts are useless, as there sometimes is very little quality control on these things. ALWAYS use the marks on the gear and sprockets.

 

Even subaru says to ignore marks on thier own belts.

 

 

nipper

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Key on the crank down.

 

The arrows on the cam gears point at 2:00 roughly and when they are that way there will be notches in the edge of the gear that point at 12:00. Those line up with the solid marks on the timing belt and the dotted line goes at the crank.

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I lined them up on each cam and the crank. Now I am second guessing the crank. Anyone have a photo of how all three line up, especially the crank ?

 

I have an EJ crank sprocket at work, I'll take a picture of it and post it here tomorrow and point out the timing mark on the sprocket. I've done umpteen timing belts and the only one I had on wrong was the one that I got a little over-confident with and put everything back together before I tried starting it... :rolleyes:

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The endwrench articles (and the other place) have excellent pics in amongst the text on TB replacement.

 

When all else fails remember "Hash marks are the key". Not arrows, dots, etc. they will all get you in trouble. Hask marks only.

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i'm a rookie at timing belt replacement having only done one ej22, but it seems to me it would be best to line up the hash marks as they should be and also use the marks on the timing belt to make sure it's right. who wants to take it apart and have to do it twice?

 

there may not be enough slack in the belt to have the hash mark right on the cam and crank and get the number of teeth between the two wrong, but why take the chance, especially on the first cam sprocket. the second is kind of whatever is left.

 

if the belt comes with marks, double check the tooth count to make sure they are correct. if it doesn't have the marks, you can make your own by counting the teeth. things tend to move around when you are working on these things, so why not have a way to double check your work as you do it.

 

when i do a DOHC you can be sure i'll have several small clamps to hold things in their correct places.

 

my .02 opinion

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i also agree the valves probably got bent, that and you don't have the marks on the pullleys correct.

 

I think it might be time to bite the bullet and look for a mechanic and replacement engine.

 

Why would you replace the engine for bent valves? No, really, why would you recommend that?

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Depends upon how much damage was done, and how much the pistons were compromised. A dented piston surface can cause a hotspot that will cause ping and possibly future HG issues.

 

It all depends upon the damage,

 

nipper

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Going by the marks on the belts are useless, as there sometimes is very little quality control on these things. ALWAYS use the marks on the gear and sprockets.

 

Even subaru says to ignore marks on thier own belts.

 

 

nipper

 

When assembled correctly the belts marks will line up correctly. You must first set the cam gears and crank pulley to their appropriate marks. Then compress the tensioner(replace if oil is present around the plunger) and insert an allen wrench or drill bit or whatever you have that fits in the hole. Install your belt and release the tensioner. Rotate the engine two revolutions and verify that the marks all line up.

 

It is recommended that you replace cam seals, water pump(if older than a year) valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals.

 

If the valves are bent it can still be repaired. Bent valves do not condemn an engine. Search for Delta Cam, they do head and cams for our cars.

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Depends upon how much damage was done, and how much the pistons were compromised. A dented piston surface can cause a hotspot that will cause ping and possibly future HG issues.

 

It all depends upon the damage,

 

nipper

 

Not likely, unless he was running at 6000 rpm's when the belt broke!!

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