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Help! Rust ate my Fuel Filler Neck!


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Now my check engine light is on, gas leaks out when I pump gas, and my engine runs like garbage. On the other hand, I love my little car (2000 outback sport), just had lots of body work done to repair accident damage, and I don't want to get a new car. (It's really nice to not have a car payment.)

 

Is there some way to fix this that doesn't entail taking off the quarter panel and spending lots of money?

 

And does anyone have a suggestion for a good, cheap, honest garage near NYC to do the fixing?

 

Marcia

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Now my check engine light is on, gas leaks out when I pump gas, and my engine runs like garbage. On the other hand, I love my little car (2000 outback sport), just had lots of body work done to repair accident damage, and I don't want to get a new car. (It's really nice to not have a car payment.)

 

Is there some way to fix this that doesn't entail taking off the quarter panel and spending lots of money?

 

And does anyone have a suggestion for a good, cheap, honest garage near NYC to do the fixing?

 

Marcia

 

You can easily replace just the fuel filler. Remove screws from behind gas door, and remove screws in wheel well behind rear tire, and then remove the filler tube from rubber hose that connects to gas tank. You can get them new for a little over $100 bucks. And is somewhat easy to install, it will take some time, but well worth it

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Dealer only item. There is enough demand that I don't know why someone doesn't make an aftermarket one - perhaps liability.

 

On Ebay someone sells reconditioned ones with a lifetime warranty but I've never seen one.

 

DON'T reinstall the plastic "shield" that caused it to rust through to begin with.

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the cover shields are there to prevent salt spray from getting to the tube, but instead, the design flaw traps salty slush in there and it rusts even quicker. I wish smart people would engineer these, well, people that are well versed in the salt belts.

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Why don't you guys rust proof your cars? Atleast get the underbody sprayed in important area's, SUCH as where the fuel filter tube and all is!

 

I know I do, BUT, it's so bad in Maine that it doesn't matter! Yes it slows it down but rust always wins over time:-\

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Rustproofing.

 

No-one would still do the filler tube. Think about it - hidden BEHIND the plastic "guard".

 

They do frame's and floors, inside doors.

 

Good idea - but wouldn't help the filler tube.

 

Makes cars a mess to work on. Combine that with all the coated metals and plastics and that's why there aren't many rust proofing places anymore.

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I removed my soobs plastic thing and inspected the filler pipe and painted with bbq paint and then sprayed it down with rust protection coating. Mine all have rust on them but doesn't seem to be too thin (yet!).

 

Many of my family goes to Ontario once a year to get rustproofing done at http://www.Krown.com You can't get a lot of that stuff in NY anymore since NY doesn't like VOC's. Driveway sealer, etc, all water based now in NY. So people go to OH to get the stuff that actually works.

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Definitely does! Both my 93 and 94 would have disingrated by now like most other subaru's on my street. It really sucks seeing other older gen legacy's rotting away just because they did not rust proof :(. I prefer rust check though. Krown works. but they drill like 100000000s of holes I hate that. With rust check here they simple lower the window spray in that area, remove the taillights etc. I think they drill some holes though, but very minimal, and they just put very long attachments to get into areas.

 

I also get a carwash atleast once a week, during the week if I had driven through any salt at all, or snow.

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Unfortunately Marcia, this is an over $400 job if done at the Subaru dealership.

And a local garage may not be able to get the filler tube disconnected from the rubber hose to the gas tank, due to the very restricted area where the clamp is located. It kind of depends on the direction that they faced the clamp at the factory.

 

Sorry

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