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You've been pointed to the endwrench articles.

 

I told you to use hash marks - not dots, arrows, and such in a different thread.

 

If you lined up the marks as endwrench SHOWS and you've been told you'll be fine.

 

If you didn't line up the marks - what else can we tell you?

 

Apparently we're not getting through. I'm a bit dense myself at times.

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Can the crank be 180 out on the cams after a timing belt breaks? Just read that crank has to turn twice once for compression and once for exhaust but cams only turn once. How will I know that the timing is set right ?

 

The camshaft sets what stroke the crank is on. As long as the mark on the tooth on the rear of the crank sprocket is pointing at the crank position sensor and is lined up with the center mark on the timing belt, the timing belt is on with the words facing you, and the cam sprockets have their marks lined up with the marks on the belt, it should run. Here is the proper mark on the crank sprocket, it is the one that the screwdriver is pointing to. (just in case you didn't see my other post)

 

0423091040.jpg

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Bummer.

 

Doesn't matter how well things are lined up after the valves are bent.

 

BTW if you thought it was fun removing the heads wait until you're doing the torque sequence for the re-install.

 

But those buggers are tight.

 

Make sure you lube up the head bolts very well. Some always still creak for me when tightening them.

 

If the engine is on a stand a friend to hold the stand helps a lot.

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It's a whole multiple step procedure.

 

Look at and print out the appropriate Endwrench article.

 

I actually have a template with ABCDE, etc that I lay on the floor.

 

I also try and have as few of pieces as possible between the 12 point socket and the torque wrench. Infact I may buy a deep 12 point specifically for this purpose.

 

But please - look for the correct procedure.

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