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If you're looking for reliability, no aftermarket needed, the Subaru parts will last the life of the vehicle.

 

Yours failed, not because they are poor quality, but because at some point in the past the vehicle wasn't maintained properly. Usually that means either poor tire maintenance or lack of fluid changes.

 

If you're looking for cheaper then you'd want to find a known good used unit, but that's going to take some work and digging. You can start by advertising in the parts wanted forum of this board and trying to find a junk yard that has a bad transmission. For instance, I have a bad trans with a known good rear extension housing, but I'm not selling it.

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Sounds like you have already decided to do it but....

The two parts both fail with different symptoms. If the solenoid fails the transfer clutch locks up and you have full time drive to the rear. If the clutches fail you have no drive to the rear.

What is it that makes you think there is a problem with the transfer system ?

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  • 1 month later...

thanks for all the replies I ordered the duty c AKA transfer duty selonoid fron subarupartsforyou.com it is due here tomorrow I am pretty sure it is the selonoid because I am locked in AWD I bought the car with a blown rear end and starting to get small signs of happening again on slow turns

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there's a procedure for checking to make sure your rear diff final drive matches your front diff final drive. you might check yours just to be sure.

 

jack up both tires on one side of the car, mark the 6 oclock positing on both tires, unplug the wiring harness to the trans, start the car and put it in neutral, hand brake off. (it would be very good to have the other wheels chocked and no one in the line of fire, just in case.) this will lock the drive train in 4WD. now if you turn the rear wheel by hand several full rotations, the front wheel should match it turn for turn. if the marks on the tires end up in the same positions the final drives match.

 

just a thought.

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as far as I know the trans is original the car came with all repair recipts since it was new nothing about replacing the trans there was one work order complaining about the torque bind and previous owner continued to drive car

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  • 2 months later...

How did you guys end up working this out? Can you give me any pointers on the job itself? Like, remove this but don't remove that etc. etc. etc.

 

My 96 impreza outback (2.2L auto w/190k miles) is doing the same thing. Torque bind. Its been getting worse over the last 1000 miles. I've added the tranny medic fluid in my tranny, I've installed the FWD fuse, I've driven in circles repeatedly in each direction (someone mentioned this can free up the bind) and nothing has helped.

 

The torque bind is not getting any worse at this point. I assume this is as bad as it gets. My miles per gallon is horrid. 18 MPG is the best I can get. I'm sure this has to do with the awd system being locked.

 

I'm going to do the work myself and was hoping you guys could tell me what parts I should have on hand to complete the job. I will be using a friends garage and don't want to tie it up for weeks while I wait for parts that I should have ordered but didn't. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

Thanks!

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I have done the repair on several cars and you can call me if you want info on the repair. 804-393-0516. You should definately have a new extension housing gasket as yours will get trashed in the disassembly. If your AT TEMP light is flashing 13 times, then you will need a new duty c solenoid too. Make sure your AT TEMP light is coming on at start up. If not, then it may have been removed to avoid the problem showing up.

 

As a note, if the bind gets bad enough you will shear the final drive drum off the gear on the shaft and then you will have to replace that too and it costs abour 500.00 for those parts. I would get the problem fixed now while you can.

 

You will also need a die grinder or dremel tool to smooth out the groves in the final drive drum.

 

On a lift the entire job takes me about 3 hours and I am not a professional mechanic, just a hobbyist.

 

Good Luck

 

 

How did you guys end up working this out? Can you give me any pointers on the job itself? Like, remove this but don't remove that etc. etc. etc.

 

My 96 impreza outback (2.2L auto w/190k miles) is doing the same thing. Torque bind. Its been getting worse over the last 1000 miles. I've added the tranny medic fluid in my tranny, I've installed the FWD fuse, I've driven in circles repeatedly in each direction (someone mentioned this can free up the bind) and nothing has helped.

 

The torque bind is not getting any worse at this point. I assume this is as bad as it gets. My miles per gallon is horrid. 18 MPG is the best I can get. I'm sure this has to do with the awd system being locked.

 

I'm going to do the work myself and was hoping you guys could tell me what parts I should have on hand to complete the job. I will be using a friends garage and don't want to tie it up for weeks while I wait for parts that I should have ordered but didn't. I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

Thanks!

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thanks a lot!

 

Just a general clarification for everyone.

 

13 flahses of the traany light on startup means that there was an electrical fault the last time the car was operated in the transmission. It does not automtaically mean that the Duty c is bad, but in your case, it is bad. There is a procedure for pulling tranny codes, so if you dont have TB and have the flashing tranny light it may be something else.

 

 

nipper

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Just a general clarification for everyone.

 

13 flahses of the traany light on startup means that there was an electrical fault the last time the car was operated in the transmission. It does not automtaically mean that the Duty c is bad, but in your case, it is bad. There is a procedure for pulling tranny codes, so if you dont have TB and have the flashing tranny light it may be something else.

 

 

nipper

 

+1, what he said.

but it's 16 not 13, if any one is counting.

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