SDSOOBI Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 86 GL Wagon 1.8L, TBI, non-Turbo, AT, FWD. So here's what happened... Did some weekend maintenance which included the change of all engine fluids (oil, antifreeze, differential, ATF) and installed of a set of driving lights. While mounting the switch for the driving lights my drill bit caught a wire and snapped it. So I took the dash apart and put the wires back together. In the process another wire popped loose from the LED warning light panel on the left side. Specifically the check/low oil light. Now it won't start. The engine turns over and all my dash lights, except the oil one, work. Since I have a trusty Hayes repair manual I started checking what error codes I was getting from the ECM O2 light. They are as follows according to the manual. 1 long 5 short - Pressure Switch 1 long 1 short - Ignition So I checked and I have spark and the manual states that the pressure switch is for turbo models only. The thing I find odd is when checking the trouble codes on the ECM the electric fuel pump kicks on like normal but then I hear a click from what sounds like a relay under the hood, to which the fuel pump clicks off and then back on again. It keeps doing this on/off cycle until I turn the key off. My assumption is that there is something electrical that I must be missing or messed up that is not allowing the engine to start. Any ideas or suggestions for further troubleshooting? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Are you sure you got the correct wire back in place for the oil pressure light? The clicking relays may be due to the diagnostic connectors being tied together. They should only be tied together when troubleshooting a problem or checking things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 The wire I cut was right next to a male-female coupler. So I removed the coupler and connected the wires. Since the oil indicator light is just an LED it shouldn't matter if the LED is connected or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somick Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Did you disconnect the green connectors after you checked for trouble codes? Sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 I never had the green connectors under the dash connected to begin with. Should I have had them connected? jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Upon further troubleshooting this evening I found that the trouble codes are now 16 followed by 11. Since my manual did not have a code result for 16 I did some searching and found this site. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Which indicated 16 - Crank angle sensor or circuit. My manual says this should only be on '87 and later models, whereas the website indicates it is valid for '86 as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 When trouble codes appear for the CAS usually the plugs have no spark getting to them. Though you say spark is ok. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and see if the engine will fire using that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 I have spark... or at least I got a good jolt from the plug wire :-\ Checked the distributor cap and the center contact running to the coil looks rather worn out. So going to try a new one of them. Also thinking I'm not getting any fuel either since another individual I spoke with said the fuel pump should not be cycling continuously when I turn the key on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 The pump shouldn't be cycling like you say unless the ECU is in the test mode. There is a black set of jumpers besides the green ones also used for testing. Make sure they aren't connected. Make sure fuse #5 is ok and getting voltage. If the horn works then it should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 The only sets of jumpers/connectors that I have been able to locate is the set by the wiper motor that is for clearing error codes from the ECU and the other set under the dash neither of which are connected. Also all fuses are good and the horn works. Upon some further troubleshooting and parts over the weekend I found that my 86 must have been a late production model since it has the ignition/electrical components of an 87. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and coil. Since none of the 5 different auto part chains in town had a factory coil I used a universal ACCEL coil instead. I DEFINITELY have spark now. I then checked the fuel system and I have good fuel flow up to the TBI. Next I checked the voltage and resistance on the fuel injector which appears to be fine as well. Still no start up and after clearing the error codes on the ECU I get: 11 - Ignition Pulse 17 - Starter switch or circuit According to:http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 oops meant to type 16 not 17 as the error code... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 The trouble might be with the ignition relay or main relay if you have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 Ok I went through the relays and found the one that controls the fuel pump. It appears to be working fine so I next connected a line to the fuel pressure regulator to see if fuel was making it all the way through the TBI system and through the return like to the tank, which it is. Though I'm wondering if the regulator is not allowing enough pressure to build up to run the injector. When I spray starter fluid in the TBI I will get it to almost start and pop a couple times but that's it. So somehow I'm not getting fuel or maybe my timing is off, but I haven't moved the distributor so the timing should be fine. Unless anyone has any other ideas I think I'm going to tow it to a repair guy I found who is supposedly subaru expert in town since he's been working on them since 1984 I guess. Thanks cougar for your help and suggestions!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 When you replaced the cap are you certain you got the plug wires back in the correct positions? If they are ok then I suggest you check the compression next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDSOOBI Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share Posted June 18, 2009 Just to update anyone still following this thread... Thanks to Andy FitzGibbon I was able to get the small idiot light circuit board and upon plugging it in the car started right up. Crazy how that works... Thanks to everyone for the troubleshooting tips!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 i know you got this workin but i thought i would say, plug wires shouldnt zap you. i would think about gettin new ones some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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