zenofchaos Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Ok, let me paint the picture. Going down Maple Valley Highway about to head up 140th to Fairwood. Every single red light comes on in the car, amps drop, temp climbs. I know what's happened. THE DREADED CRANK PULLEY STRIKES AGAIN!! Check the back for my tools, and notice that I lost the socket I need:banghead:..... I have a mile to make it to my drummer's house. Up 140th (about 1/2 mile tough climb) SOOO I make 3 sprints between near overheats (turned it off 1/4 inch from overheat each time) and manage to limp it there. I'm fixing the damn thing AGAIN tomorrow, but I was hoping that someone might have some advice for me other then red locktite, which obviously isn't working.... Thank you for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 You are not getting it tight enough. I've had the same problem. Lock up the engine, use locktite and herf on that sucker. Ok, let me paint the picture. Going down Maple Valley Highway about to head up 140th to Fairwood. Every single red light comes on in the car, amps drop, temp climbs. I know what's happened. THE DREADED CRANK PULLEY STRIKES AGAIN!! Check the back for my tools, and notice that I lost the socket I need:banghead:..... I have a mile to make it to my drummer's house. Up 140th (about 1/2 mile tough climb) SOOO I make 3 sprints between near overheats (turned it off 1/4 inch from overheat each time) and manage to limp it there. I'm fixing the damn thing AGAIN tomorrow, but I was hoping that someone might have some advice for me other then red locktite, which obviously isn't working.... Thank you for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Had that same problem.... limping it home a half a mile at a time... One think is that once it comes loose, it reams out the inside of the pulley... so you might need a new pully now. I had to get a new one because I'd destroyed mine so badly. IIRC, I also drilled out two holes in it to put little bolts through that went into the holes in the crankshaft gear -- so it's not strictly a friction fit any more, and jb welded the whole thing. Then use the loctite on the bolt (whatever the strongest color was) and crank the %$&@#$ out of it (with the car in gear 1st low and e-brake on) and then let the loctite have at least 24 hours to set. Finally held. Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 just make it tigther, that's your only problem. you're not securing the engine or using the right tools. if you can't get it tight enough then locktite or torque wrench will help but they aren't needed. personally i'd just make it tigther i've probably installed this bolt at least 50 times. i use a 1/2" socket and a 2 or 3 foot pipe and crank that mojo. it's not coming off, heck i even slap them back on with the keys and pins sheared off or missing. they don't come off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenofchaos Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 So I took the crank pulley off today. Check out the back of it: and the front: it's sheared about 1/32" should that be OK to reinstall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenofchaos Posted May 7, 2009 Author Share Posted May 7, 2009 OK, doesn't matter if the pulley's bad or not. I need the car running, so I slapped it all back together. I had a friend on the brake with the e-brake in 1st low (thanks Zye) It definately cinched up better then last time. I'm taking a bit of a break, and going to button her all back up. I'll let everyone know if/when it happens again:horse: Thanks for everyone's help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 i can't really see it all that well in the pic's. in simplest terms the crank pulley isn't that exact of a piece of equipment. the only thing you need to worry about is that it's tight. outside of that, if it's warn or sheared like you said then it's just going to not sit *perfectly* flush on the crank. *if* that's the case, it isn't a huge deal really, it will wear your accessory belts quicker. you can look at it while the engine is running to see how true it is and how well the belt is tracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Oh what? Again? Dude, that blows my mind, even after I loctited that thing and cranked it down. Thats insane. I dunno what to say except WTF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenofchaos Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 Well, it's been about 18 hours, and everything's holding together. When I look at the pulley from the side when the car's running, I don't see any wobbly motion, so it seems good in that department. Hope for the best I guess.....:-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I had a friend on the brake with the e-brake in 1st low (thanks Zye) actually, you are better off doing this in higher gears, where the drivetrain has more mechanical advantage over the motor. Just think which gears are easier to stalll a motor in? 1st or 4th? you are basically wanting to stall the motor(driven by your hand rather than the pistons) agianst the drivetrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyewdall Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Gloyale is right... 5th gear, high range is better than 1st low range. I was thinking of the opposite -- using the starter motor to take off stuck axle nuts... Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenofchaos Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Well, I guess I know what to do if it comes off again. Thanks for everyone's help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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