98 Legacy Wagon, rear hatch latch parts?

[swi66]

My handle just broke on my 98 Legacy wagon, it has been rusty for quite awhile and sticking where I had to push it back down to unlock the lift gate. Found on e-bay

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Rear-gate-handle-fits-1991-2004_W0QQitemZ360100526109QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53d7a9f81d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

Is this a good price?

 

but, I was thinking.

There is also this item:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400040273551&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

seeing as how my mechanism is probably all bad anyways, should I get this also or instead? And is it the right part from his description?

Seller leaves it up to the buyer to figure out if it is correct.

 

Any advice?

[porcupine73]

The handle itself broke? Usually it is the metal bracket that rusts out. The metal brackets from Subaru dealers selling online are only $20-$25.

[greg donovan]

just replaced mine last week. that is what i paid at the dealership.

my handle broke too on one hinge. had to do the same thing and push the handle down before closing to keep the hatch closed.

 

the gate opens and closes just fine now. it is a easy swap. the "hardest" part was getting the arm out of the old handle bracket. i just used a channel locks and squeezed the hell out of it untill it pushed out.

[swi66]

So is this the part I need?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-Rear-gate-handle-fits-1991-2004_W0QQitemZ360100526109QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item53d7a9f81d&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

 

Or does anyone know if the part number for what I need?

 

How about a link to the on-line vendor?

[Rooster2]

just replaced mine last week. that is what i paid at the dealership.

my handle broke too on one hinge. had to do the same thing and push the handle down before closing to keep the hatch closed.

 

the gate opens and closes just fine now. it is a easy swap. the "hardest" part was getting the arm out of the old handle bracket. i just used a channel locks and squeezed the hell out of it untill it pushed out.

 

 

Think I have the same problem on my 99 OBW, my squeeze release handle hasn't broken, however, with rust on the bracket, the handle won't spring retract after hand releasing the squeeze handle. Too much rust is binding things up. Is it simply a matter of buying/replacing the metal bracket which would include the squeeze handle? Looks like two 8MM headed bolts mount the bracket in place to the tailgate. Do the two license plate lamps mount to the bracket? Is the bracket an item that a dealer would typically keep in stock? Thanks for any advise.

 

Update, I just telephoned the parts desk at my local Subie dealer. They want $45 and change for a new "handle." They do carry the part in stock. Parts guy refused to give me the part number, said the dealer owner has new policy of not releasing part numbers over the phone. Guess they don't want me shopping the part number over the internet.

Edited May 8, 2009 by Rooster2
info update

[ron917]

You can sprays some lube on the hinges, springs, and other moving parts. We've lubed the hatch handle mechanism on my son's '99 Outback (formerly mine) for several years now. Whenever it gets sticky, just give it a few squirts. I found a lube that works pretty well, standard white grease will probably be OK, too. WD-40 won't last long. The lube gel lasts 6 months or more.

[Rooster2]

You can sprays some lube on the hinges, springs, and other moving parts. We've lubed the hatch handle mechanism on my son's '99 Outback (formerly mine) for several years now. Whenever it gets sticky, just give it a few squirts. I found a lube that works pretty well, standard white grease will probably be OK, too. WD-40 won't last long. The lube gel lasts 6 months or more.

 

Yes, I have been lubing the handle mechanism for some time now, however, I would really like to replace the handle. Like you say, the lube for a while, then wears off, and the rust returns again to bind up the handle from moving easily.

 

Just a few minutes ago, I just removed the two 8MM bolts that secure the "handle plate" to the outside of the rear hatch door in order to remove the handle. Removing the bolts did nothing to loosen the handle from the hatch. I suspect that the vinyl cover on the inside of the hatch has to be removed to gain access to removing the handle. My dealer says they have a new handle in stock, but I want to see what needs to be done to R&R the old handle. Any advise would be appreciated on what to do.

[BB's93LegacyL]

Reviving this thread for a useful link (not my video) on how to replace the tailgate / hatch latch / handle. Yesterday mine broke on the right side. The left side is where the actuating rod and spring are located. The right pivot pin is what rusted and fell off. Turns out the spring was gone too.  As seen in the video, the OEM part number is 062150AA211. The same part number for his '99 is listed for my '93 Legacy in my parts manual. The part is available on eBay for about $25. I was in a hurry, and the dealer had it in stock, so I paid $45. Installation is very straightforward, once you watch the video. The best part was that everything came apart easily, even with all the rust. Here's a list of tools etc.

Phillips screwdriver for loosening interior panel fasteners.

Flat screwdriver for prying the 2-piece interior panel caps off, and for prying the actuating rod out of the plastic grommet. My car had two types of interior panel caps -- phillips head along the bottom of the panel where it's not seen, and smooth caps where they show from inside the car. Remove the cap, then pull out the plug that resembles a drywall anchor.

10 mm box end wrench for removing the nuts that hold the handle to the body panel.

Wire brush/sandpaper for cleaning up loose rust under old handle, and maybe some rust converter for that area.

Channel-Lock or Robo Grip type pliers for squeezing actuating rod back into handle grommet.

 

In case the video isn't working, the steps are,

Remove the interior panel

Remove the two 10 mm nuts that hold the handle on from the inside..

Pry the actuator rod apart from the handle.

Remove the plastic grommet from the handle (where the rod attached.)

Remove the handle.

On the new part, remove the grommet, and put it all back together. Use the pliers for squeezing the actuator rod end back into the grommet in the handle arm

I'd rate this as a pretty simple project.

My photos show how bad the old handle was when it failed after 23 winters of heavy road salt. Hard to believe it was still working at all.