98sub2500leg Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I have the engine supported, all fasteners removed from trans., enginge pulled up to clear the 2 motor mount studs. Any tips on separating the eng & trans. ? There doesn't seem to be enough room to tap the bell housing with a block of wood & mallet. I know there is a method to the madness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 The dowels can stick if corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 I have liquid wrench on the pins, the 2 are fairly well stuck together. Can't find a good point or position to get a good wack on the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 (edited) I'll start with quick answers before a longer list. Tranny supported WELL. In addition to making sure the "pitch" of the engine is correct sometimes it helps to take weight off the engine and thus lots of weight on the tranny support. The dowel pins - PB, Liquid wrench, etc. On a recent engine removal the tranny actually broke a piece around the passenger side dowell. Anyway with the tranny holding this extra load start with thin long screwdrivers. I also spray the engine/trans matting with PB. BTW I also scotchbrite both bellhousings and anti-seize them before re-install. Edited May 10, 2009 by davebugs typing abilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I stole this pic from somone not sure if it is exactly same as yours but.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Torque converter bolts!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Not counting the exhaust stuff - how many bolts/nuts have you removed. Pitch stopper? (engine will come out with it in place but they don't seem to go back in with this in place. 4 eng/trans bolts/nuts 2 motor mount bolts. 4 Torque converter bolts. Search isn't working properly (or it's taking a while for it to see posts from today) Before I move on can we atleast hear how many botls/nuts you've removed? When you said "removed all bolts". That doesn't really tell us and probably isn't acurate. I've forgotten both motor mount and TC bolts until I have difficulties and recheck what I've done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 I'll be offline until tomorrow. And I probably won't be on much until later tomorrow. But I'm curious what your issue is. Good luck. It's either something simple you've forgotten. Or just the crap that welds these pieces together in the rust belt. Even when you start to get a crack. Work in small increments all the way around. I try and cheat the drivers side the most. Since it's the most congested. I'd rather have it running slightly ahead as far as a gap goes. That way if it torque binds a bit it's on the passenger side and easier access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 once all the bellhousing, starter, and torque converter bolts are off i just wedge a chisel in between the engine/trans and work my way around. sometimes have to start with a screw driver. make sure you know how to seat the torque converter properly when reinstalling. it's quite common to ruin your trans by missing the 1/8" critical seating part. read up on here if you don't know what i'm talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Got it out and it is on the stand. Used the screwdrivers, worked well for initial separation, then cut a wedge in a few 2x4's on the bandsaw for a few pry levers. I used my Kubota with forks for the pull out, couldn't get the right angle though. For some reason the tranny bell housing was up higher than the engine, even when I had the trans. minimally supported that bent the 2 lower housing studs, other than that it was how it usually goes. It has been several years since I did this. Not looking forward to reinstall. I believe it is because I used wheel stands to support the car so it was probably up higher than I should have had it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 awesome, i have a kubota to and wondered if i could get rid of my engine lift!!! dont' forget to make sure you know how to install the TC without damaging the transmission. easily overlooked and hard to judge that 1/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Glad you got it out. Perhaps a local member has new studs for the bottom ones that you bent. If not drop me a PM - but I'm on the other side of the country. I try to have a few of them around already removed incase the JY screws up the ends of the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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