Rust Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Problem: Fast/racing idle Checked all hoses and p-b blasted all pivot points on the accelerator. Before I start messing with the idle adjuster, I was wondering if it was either the Elecrtonic Choke or the ERG Valve. It there a by-pass proceedure to check these 2 things to rule them out??? Usually if the ERG goes belly-up you get a low irregular idle, so I'm thinking it's the electronic choke, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 remove air cleaner look down carb throat to see if choke opens back off idle adjusting screw adjust "idle mixture" air bleed screw to lower rpm follow procedure to reset co % ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 It seems to have been idleing much better since I lubed up the linkages and the cable. There must have been something (grime/grit) caught in there, because I ran it over 150 miles in the last 2 days since p-b blasting it and it seems fine. If the electronic choke(heating element) on the side of the carb was out of whack and choking the carb after warm up......thus causing a high idle, could it be by-passed. For example putting a toggle switch in the lead wire to the choke, click it on for warm-up, then clicking it off after warm up. Basically turning it into a manual choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 With the electric choke, the choke butterfly is closed when there is no power to the element. When the element gets power, it begins to open, and when it has warmed up the choke butterfly is fully open. SO, if the electric choke is your problem, then it would be because it is NOT getting power for some reason, but it was probably just old bound up/stuck linkage some where. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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