MidcoastScooby Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here from the mid north coast (east) of Australia. I handed down my '89 4WD Wagon (L-series) to my son and I've just replaced the right side rear complete wheel bearings. It was good for 600klm but the old problem has arisen of a squelching/squeaking noise coming from around the rear hub somewhere. I get a wee bit of movement up and down when I grasp the wheel and jiggle. I've pulled the drum off and inspected the bearings (outer end only) and all is in place unlike the collapsed outer cage previously. Also, when the wheel is on the ground and immediately after it starts to squeak, grasping the wheel and wiggling it nearly duplicates the sound (creaking noise with every pull of a side). I've removed the hub and put it back together and the noise returns after 10 minutes driving, each squelch coincides with the wheel rotation so the slower you go the more pronounced it is, faster only makes the noise less evident but it is there. I only have a wee torque wrench which is useless with this hub nut, but have adjusted the nut with gentle pursuasive tapping with a drift and hammer and guessed the 177Nm (220ft/lb) torque required. Interestingly, like previously the hub nut seems to become loose even when it is staked with the large cotter pin. I accepted that previously tightening it up too much probably crushed the bearings but I have been very careful not to over do the new ones. So, why is the nut loosening, it seems to also coincide with when it squelches? Does the coned spacer just in front of the drum (before washer and hub nut) have anything to do with this? Is the hub nut and this conical spacer consumable items? Can it even be the CV joint but I doubt it. Any help will be greatly appreciated. It's driving me nuts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'84 Flat-Four Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 i have read in a thread that one cannot over-tighten the castle-nut. (please chime in, anyone...) I had a similar problem but front DS. I literally jumped up and down on the wrench, took a 4' cheeter bar to it. then I drove for 50 miles, inspected, and sure enough, more tightening was required. Not much more, but enough to insert the cotter pin one more notch over and tighter on the castle nut. And for good measure, I lifted the front-end to take the weight off the axle/wheel in case this would prevent further tightening... it worked well End result: no more noises! I have no idea if replacing the conical washer & nut will make any difference. I believe the FSM calls for replacing the washer each time its removed... i could be wrong though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidcoastScooby Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 i have read in a thread that one cannot over-tighten the castle-nut. (please chime in' date=' anyone...)..........(snip)......I believe the FSM calls for replacing the washer each time its removed... i could be wrong though...[/quote'] The hub nut (castle) in my manual (Haynes?Gregories?) sez these should be replaced when they appear worn or words to that effect... I'm imagining that the bearings are seating themselves hence the nut loosening. Prior to this bearing kit the old ones got loose too especially towards the end of their life and when inspected were actually collapsed. If the hub nut is staked the only reason the nut would appear loose is if the actual hub/drum moved inboard on the axle stub...but how could this be? I suspect the conical washer/spacer being partly to blame, I'll remove it and take it into the subie shop and compare it to a new one and see if the bevel is the same angle etc. I'm still baffled, this is defying all mechanical logic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 The conical washer should have a nice rounded edge to the outer end of it. If it shows any sign of wear, it needs replaced. You may also need to swap out the rear drum as it will wear along with the washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidcoastScooby Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 The conical washer should have a nice rounded edge to the outer end of it. If it shows any sign of wear, it needs replaced. You may also need to swap out the rear drum as it will wear along with the washer. Thanks for confirming that, now just have to stop my son driving the thing so I can get the conical washer and drum off. It's been quiet for the last 2 days...so he tells me...then again with the volume he plays music at I'm surprised he'd hear anything at all. Geez I sound like my old man when I was 17! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulpicard Posted March 11, 2010 Share Posted March 11, 2010 Did you manage to solve the problem? I ask because the rt.rear axle/hub on my 92 Loyale is doing exactly the same thing and I replaced the bearings on that last summer (Not fun!!) The drum and conical spacer are original, and the drum is quite rusty outside. I have also pulled the drum to inspect for dragging brakes - no issues there. After a 100 km drive yesterday, the squeaky side showed 125 Deg, F at the spindle end, the other side was cool at mayby 65 F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulpicard Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 bump. C'mon, guys, someone has to have an opinion on this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I've had to replace the stub axle, drum, conical washer, and nut on a 4wd wagon once because it was run loose and chewed up the splines. You can't tighten it too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulpicard Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Nug those were the things I last checked couple weeks ago - they were all good, although the drum and backing plate were pretty rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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