garner Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Yes, I've searched. I'm rebuilding an EA82T and while I'm at it I thought I'd try Cameron's excelent "tick fix". The HLAa are difficult to get apart but my biggest problem is getting them back together. He sugests assembling them under the surface in a bowl of oil to exclude any air from inside. This makes perfect sense but when I do this, I get them so full of oil that I can't get the retainer back on. I have to use a pencil on the ball/valve to bleed some oil off. When they finally will go back together, they are just as loose as before. These things confuse me in general. It seems like if it's oil pressure that keeps them pumped up and the lash adjusted properly, they need a bit of "movability" to do their job. It seems like if they move less than the .5mm spec, they could just as easily be frozen/toast. Is there something I'm missing here? I had an idea that I thought was brilliant to solve the problem. I suspect that the reason they move too freely is that there is air where they should be oil. I thought I could solve this problem with a vacuum chamber. I submerged the HLA in oil, pulled as strong a vacuum as this unit would. Soon there were bulbbles comming out of the oil port as I theoretically replacd the air with oil. After sometime, the bubbles stoped and I releaset the vacuum. I was certain, I had it figured but when I checked the movement, it was just like it had been before, about 2.5-3mm movement. I only tried the vacuum chamber once, I'm thinking maybe if I play with the orientation of the HLA in the oil bath, I might get some air bubbles that I couldn't get beforre. I'll try again. Any thoughts ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 wow you really have gone deep into the world of the lifter. all I have needed to to do in the past is. 1 disassemble and clean 2 reassemble CORRECTLY ( or they will never hold pressure) 3 submerge in ATF and pump them to get the air out. 4 sometimes they will still tick on start up untill the car runs a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 rallyruss, I haven't tried ATF. When you reassemble and pump up, do they actually get in the less than .5mm movement range? Or do you just get them to "tighten up"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 .5 hmmm.. its been a while but I think it was a little less movement than that. they dont become solid but definatly tighter. I think the ATF helps a bit. like I mentioned if you were to assemble them with the check ball assy upside down they will never pump up properly. I did that once and then had to pull the lifter after the motor was installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 I think that's the spec. I can't figure a great way to measure any smaller than that anyway. It's been a long time since I've played with ATF (the lubricant, not the fun stuff) How is it different than regular oil?, thinner, thicker? In Cameron's post, which I can't seem to access at the moment, are his illustrations of the break-down accurate? I followed his illustrations to the pixel, so I shouldn't have them asembled incorrectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flow Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 I'm about to take on this little project myself. What's the advantage of the ATF besides its cleaning properties? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallyruss Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 yeah ATF cleans well and is thinner. I belive it allows the air and oil to trade spaces easier. as for the spec I never checked it specficly. I just went by feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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