Okay, I'm stumped on electrical gremlins

[kahlrichs]

So, I thought I was smart till I got under the hood of a 1991 Legacy.

 

Intermittent start failure - clicking but no turnover. Even if I trickle charge overnight.

 

- had the battery checked. They said fine.

- removed starter. Checked fine at the auto parts store.

- Cleaned up contacts on the battery.

 

THe lights shine at full brihtness but the starter just clicks...

 

What's left? Do the cables ever go bad between battery and starter? Or, even though they said the starter was OK, it isn't?

 

Aaargh. I hate intermittent electrical gremlins. My other car is a Model T. I'm not kidding....

[erik litchy]

sounds like a classic starter solenoid gone bad.

yes sometimes the cables go bad but its usually the ground side.

[The Beast I Drive]

On my 87 GL I had a problem like that, I replaced the starter and it would still do just what you described, turned out that both of the starter cables were corroded throughout the inside. I replaced those with new ones and away we went

-Bill

[lostinthe202]

on my 87 gl i had a problem like that, i replaced the starter and it would still do just what you described, turned out that both of the starter cables were corroded throughout the inside. I replaced those with new ones and away we went

-bill

 

+1

[GeneralDisorder]

Generally there are two causes:

 

1. bad main battery cables

 

2. bad ignition switch/wiring. the switch or wiring cant pass enough current to pull in the solenoid hard enough to connect the contacts.

 

GD

[edrach]

Generally there are two causes:

 

1. bad main battery cables

 

2. bad ignition switch/wiring. the switch or wiring cant pass enough current to pull in the solenoid hard enough to connect the contacts.

 

GD

I'm with GD on this. A common problem on the older Subes is the connector on the ignition switch cable where it plugs into the harness under the dash. The connector can't carry enough current to the solenoid. It's pretty easy to spot; remove the plastic under the dash and follow the cable from the ignition switch about 6" to a pink plastic connector. Check the connector body; if it has a brown or black discoloration around one of the wires, you found your problem. A bad connection generates heat and makes the plastic turn brown or black. A quick trip to your local pull a part yard and few bucks should buy you a new cable. I've found that Subaru used the same cable from the later EA81 cars up to and including early Legacy/Impreza models.

[GeneralDisorder]

The (sometimes easier) option for those that aren't able to fix it with a new cable or don't want to R&R the ignition switch is to install a relay powered from the original solenoid signal. The signal has enough current to pull in the relay and the relay can provide full current to the solenoid. This is actually the best option (and how it should have been built in the first place) as the wireing doesn't have to carry the full current of the starter solenoid.

 

GD

[kahlrichs]

Thanks, everybody!

 

I took the first clues and called Soooby Dealer Parts. Cable bundle - $130 something. New starter was north of $500. The value of the car is somewhere in the middle.

 

Went to the dead car, which had been rained on. Tried to crank, and it just clicked. BUT the key clue emerged. The slightly wet negative post on the battery steamed little wisps of vapor. ahHah. Bad connection plus lotsa amps equals heat. The bolt was as tight as it would go - so rummaged for a metal screw and drove it into the crevice in the clamp between the clamp and the battery post. The metal screw bit into the clamp and the post.

 

Fired right up. Bingo.

 

THanks to all for their thoughts. Very helpful.

 

k:)

[Log1call]

Rough!!

 

Take the cable terminal off the battery, clean it inside and the battery post outside, then put it back on and try without the ugly screw poking our of your Subaru.

 

If you don't I'm going to tell Subaru on you!