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Crank shaft pulley bolt won't come out


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So I replaced my water pump and managed to forget to put the center timing belt cover back on before putting the dam crank shaft pulley back on. Even though I didn't excessively tighten the bolt when I put it back on, it won't come off. The pulley needs to come off again so the cover can go behind it.

 

My question is what machine or magical tool can I use to get this damn bolt out? My previous method of getting it off hasn't worked. I tried putting a wrench around a socket to get leverage. I've pounded on it and jumped up and down on it with my 175 lbs of body weight and it won't loosen.

 

Please help :-(

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I am thinking remember lefty loosy, righty tighty. So you just put the bolt on and didn't really tighten it, now you are loosening it and it won't budge?! On the crank bolt I guess it is a good idea to put a bit of motor oil on it. I can not see it rusting already that is crazy!! Try harder would be my suggestion at this point. How were the threads on the bolt? Was it rusty?

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Did you try a really long bar as suggested? Like using natural gas pipe, or even a torque wrench which is what I used. Although I could not get it to budge (around the same weight as you hehe). Tightening it is alot easier then loosening. My dad is pretty huge so he got it out no problems. :lol:

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Did you try a really long bar as suggested? Like using natural gas pipe, or even a torque wrench which is what I used. Although I could not get it to budge (around the same weight as you hehe). Tightening it is alot easier then loosening. My dad is pretty huge so he got it out no problems. :lol:

I have bent a tourque wrench and a 3/4 in wrench trying to get this thing off. I'm positive I'm going the right way (counter clockwise facing toward the back of the car).

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Yah that's generally what it takes. I go with 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket with a four foot piece of 1-1/4" black iron pipe on it. It usually resists....for a little bit but I keep telling it resistance is futile. assimilation.gif That method is also helpful for the axle nuts.

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Yah that's generally what it takes. I go with 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket with a four foot piece of 1-1/4" black iron pipe on it. It usually resists....for a little bit but I keep telling it resistance is futile. assimilation.gif That method is also helpful for the axle nuts.

 

screw that, impact FTW on axle nuts haha!

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Yes I have used impact wrench on axle nuts. But they seem to come off just fine with the long pipe method as well so I use that since soob says wheel bearings can be damaged from the impact wrench.

 

Ya I read that too hmm. I used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt though. 140ft-lbs is correct right?

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