GeneralDisorder Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Only the EA82 came with the 5 speed dual range. There are EJ engines in europe that had them as well but not in the US. The EJ22 bolts to the EA82 5 speed D/R with an adaptor plate - there are several members here that make them and sell them. Rguyver makes laser cut plates for $100 (plus shipping from Canada unless you catch him at the west coast Subaru show) - his are both the nicest and the cheapest I've seen. You also will need the flywheel and clutch setup from the EA82. The flywheel bolt pattern is modified and it bolts to the EJ22 crank nose. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 Can't you get around smog by retitling it and registering it as a "custom car" or Collector vehicle? A '69 bug is a collector vehicle, anything 1972 and older... Thats how most folks get away with blown 454 Chevelles and such... -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 GD: I have a lot to think about. I do like reliability. The cost however just jumped up a bit. TBID: Unfortunately, my state still requires a smog check for a home built vehicle. I could just reg it as a 1969 VW, and build it up with the EJ engine, and not tell the DMV. They'd not be the wiser, but I want to be in compliance with all the laws, even if they are to go against a non-existing problem. If there's any way around it, you bet I'll take it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 It's worth the added investment for the dead-reliable 135 HP! GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 That's a good point. What about fuel efficiency? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 That's a good point. What about fuel efficiency? My 94 legacy wagon got as good as my EA81 hatchback does. 25 in the city, 28 freeway. MPFI is an amazing thing. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 I have a question.. The rear diff in the BRAT has the following markings: On the top: 213 A N19(? on the 9) B On the bottom: 213 7711 T24 Does anyone know what ratio this differential is? And consequently.. What front transmission will match it? Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 only way to tell is to measure rev. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 19, 2009 Author Share Posted May 19, 2009 Bummer. You don't have a reliable method you use for doing that, do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted May 19, 2009 Share Posted May 19, 2009 As far as I know, the 4sp d/r's and the 5sp d/r's have the same, 3.9:1. I believe it was only the turbo tranny's that had 3.7:1 Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 The Gen 1 Brat had a weird rear diff - I beleive it was 4.11 or something close to it. The guys in the Historic section of the board would know for sure. I know they aren't compatible with the D/R transmissions though. Your are better off getting a known 3.9 from any EA81 or EA82 4WD (non-turbo). The EA81 and EA82 diffs are marked on the sticker what their ratio is. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Some Gen 1's had 4.111 gears, but that was only the 76-early 78 models IIRC, might have been a DL thing... Although my 1980 Brat DL had 3.9s... Most of the Gen 1 brats I have run into had 3.9 diff ratios. The best way I can think of is to make a ring and divide it into 36 degree increments (which should give you 10 marks) that fits over the input shaft, then make one mark on the input shaft and mark a place on one of the diff stubs, then rotate the input shaft until the diff stub has made 1 full rotation. Then use the marks on the ring to see what ratio you have. If it takes a little over 4.1 turns of the input to rotate the stub 1 rotation, then you have 4.111 gears. If it takes 3.9 turns of the input then you have 3.9 gears. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 20, 2009 Author Share Posted May 20, 2009 (edited) Bummer. I wanted to use as much BRAT as I could. I will try and find out what the ratio is for my diff. It's a good diff and has zero slop or play. Edited May 20, 2009 by tundrawolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 It might, if its a 79-81 it is probable that it has 3.9 diffs, but still possible it could have 4.111s. If it is a 78, there is a good chance it may have the 4.111 diffs, which is why you have to check, or just grab the diff from whatever car you pull a trans from. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 The Gen 1 Brat had a weird rear diff - I beleive it was 4.11 or something close to it. The guys in the Historic section of the board would know for sure. I know they aren't compatible with the D/R transmissions though. GD GD, you are very seldom wrong, but this is an erronious statement ^ Not all Gen 1 brats had 4.111, most I encountered had 3.9 diffs. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 20, 2009 Author Share Posted May 20, 2009 (edited) The difference between 4.111 and 3.9 is so small it would be easy to mistake it for either one. What I am thinking is this: I am working on a high capacity motorcycle tank for a Yamah V star 1100 cruiser, which I can easily sell for $700. I will take the $700 and buy a Subaru with the EJ22 in it (So there's no such thing as a vehicle with an EJ22 AND a dual range tranny in it?) and use everything out of that, abandoning the BRAT idea. It is seeming to be just a huge hassle with engine swaps, ratios, etc. I would love to have a pre 75 engine and even a 4 speed d/r tranny to circumvent smog issues, but I guess that just is not happening. So I have to look at a more realistic solution, because I am not abandoning the VW Beetle/ Subaru idea. The EJ22 does sound appealing. I am going for good highway gas mileage just as much as I am going for a unique hybrid idea with the Beetle and a Japanese AWD platform. If I can get 100+ HP in the super light beetle, then that's going to do me just fine. The only problem is finding an EJ22, or a cheap vehicle with one in it that does not need a bunch of work. My heartfelt thanks to everyone who is helping me out, you guys are great. I am going to take lots of pics when I get this thing going. I really am anxious, but I know good things take time. Edited May 20, 2009 by tundrawolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 You may very well be able to pick up an EJ powered vehichle for a few hundred bucks that has a shot tranny. If you were closer I'd sell you my spare EJ22, but I don't think it would be cost effective to ship an EJ22 to arizona from north Idaho. Just keep looking for a 5sp d/r and an EJ22 in you local area. Hope you find what you need! Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 20, 2009 Author Share Posted May 20, 2009 OK, so the EJ22 came on: Impreza 95-01, Legacy 90-99, Outback 95-99. Which vehicle should I be asking for? I think maybe I should just buy the whole vehicle. I'm not sure. But it needs to be cheap haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 I recommend the 90-96 EJ22's out of the Legacies. They're non-interference. I believe the 93-97 EJ22's in the impreza's were non-interference as well, but don't quote me on those. If the market down there is anything like the market up here, you should be able find an entire car for a few hundred, as stated before. Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 21, 2009 Author Share Posted May 21, 2009 Thanks, Twitch! I should probably be asking, were any of those vehicles equipped with a stock gear ratio that is incompatible with the dual range 4 or 5 speed transmissions? Thanks again guys you are a huge help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Some of the manual Impreza/Legacy ones came with 4.111 gears, others had 3.9s... But there should be a tag on the rear diff that shows what the ratio is. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) You guys are an absolute Godsend. Before I go out there trying to find all of these components, smog issues aside, for reliability, matchability (ability to be matched to the 5 speed), and economy, the EJ22 is my best bet? And, the 5 speed D/R tranny is what I am going for. Does anyone have any ideas on places to search for transmissions, or used vehicles with maybe tranny trouble? All I am finding are adds for new subarus, or fairly expensive used ones. Edited May 24, 2009 by tundrawolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Yes - that's exactly the combination I would use. You need: EJ22 (plus wireing - 90 to 94 are simplest). 5 speed D/R Adaptor plate EA82 Flywheel (redrilled to the EJ22 crank pattern) EA82 (or XT6, ect) clutch GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrawolf Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) Thank you. I will hit the junkyards here soon. I just got a lot of good news on an important part of this project and I am really jazzed about it. Although severely lacking the cash to go forward. At a junkyard, are there any identifying marks that would tell me what engine I am looking at? Edit: I just found a 1991 Loyale 5 speed 4x4 1.8 runs great, (Needs work) passed smog, for $350. Is there anything wrong with the 1.8? Maybe I'd better stick to the 2.2. I need to fight the urge to get everything I need in one swoop. Edited May 24, 2009 by tundrawolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Edit: I just found a 1991 Loyale 5 speed 4x4 1.8 runs great, (Needs work) passed smog, for $350. Is there anything wrong with the 1.8? Maybe I'd better stick to the 2.2. I need to fight the urge to get everything I need in one swoop. There is nothing in a Loyale that you want. No D/R (they were push-button single range) and the EA82 is not the engine for you. Really wide, problematic timing belts and head gaskets, and only 10 more HP than the EA81. You want the EJ22. As for telling what engine you are lookingg at - on the passenger side front of the block casting will be the designation - it will be cast into the block. You will get a taste pretty quick for the body style that has the engine you want. It's going to be 90 through 94 Legacy's (not Loyale's). The D/R tranny will come from 85 to 89 GL's (same as the Loyale body). GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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