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I just checked my ac unitin my car and its complete and still holding pressure. Is it still holding pressure an accurate diagnosis that it is still solid and leak free. Also if it is still good how can i recharge it if theyve outlawed that type of freon. Im not that into paying loads of money to convert the system.

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Greetings: I am in a similar situation. Had to replace the compressor on my xt6. Have a look here: http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_prod.html.

 

Specifically, their R12A is a direct replacement for R12. Supposed to actually cool better than R134 or R12.

 

Its an alkane type refrigerant, be sure and look at the conversion charts on the site because it requires 1/3 the amount by weight of r12a to replace an empty r12 system.

 

The only drawback is that some people would say r12a is flammable, whereas r12 is not. However r134 is also flammable, its flash point is 1411 degrees at 0 psi and 368 degrees at 5 psi. R12a has a flash point of 1585 at both pressures.

 

They suggest you do not mix refrigerants, however you do not have to replace anything to run r12a!

 

Good luck.

Edited by gpilot
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No i guess what i was asking is that since there is pressure in the system that means the system could still hold refrigerant. I had the belt hooked up until it broke a few months ago. It blew hot air, i was just asking if this was a good way to see if the system was still complete.

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I just checked my ac unitin my car and its complete and still holding pressure. Is it still holding pressure an accurate diagnosis that it is still solid and leak free. Also if it is still good how can i recharge it if theyve outlawed that type of freon. Im not that into paying loads of money to convert the system.
R12 is only outlawed on new equipment. Old systems are "grandfathered" in and you can still "top it up" if necessary. The trick is finding R12 at a reasonable price.
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I have a 93 Loyale, and have just converted it to R134. bought the Subaru parts, new hoses and receiver/dryer, tried to recharge after evacuating, but only would take a 1/3 of first can without starting engine, and compressor doesn't run, clutch doesn't engage. Where is the pressure switch mentioned above. and how is the compressor clutch wired?

 

myhilo

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acually you can top it off so much but eventually you'll need some one to suck the old stuff out with as much air as possible and create a vaccum in the a/c lines and then recharge it from there.

 

other wise you putting refrigerant in with air and compressing the air so there isnt as much refrigerant in there as it needs to be and it wont blow as cool.

 

this is something i have run into a few times. also no system is leak free all the time, it eventually gets out

 

as a side note my loyale says it was converted in 2007, its already low but all that was changed were a few fittings and the dryer. dryers generally arent too much and the fittings i think were replaced because they leaked, or they may be factory and looks new because i degreased the front end....hmm.

 

either way it was converted 134a, theres an adaptor for the 134a on the low pressure line to use the new fittings and its already low, 2 years.

i'm gonna top it off and go from there, see if the "stop leak" for a/c works at all (doubt it but wont hurt)

 

but if you replaced the compressor or the dryer and opened up the system you should have some one suck everything down and then fill it

Edited by Niku-Sama
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Yes - you need to pull the system into a vacuum before charging. Should pull down to around 1000 micron at least. Then it's best to charge it with nitrogen and check for leaks.

 

There are now substitites for R12 that are better than R134 and require no changes to the system. Do a google search for R12A. They are cheap, legal, better performing, and have a larger molecule size so they don't leak as easily.

 

GD

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