98sub2500leg Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 I have heard rumors to change this plate if it is plastic. I believe it is also referred to as a baffle plate. I have heard on several occasions that if it is plastic to change it out to the redesigned aluminum. Mine is the original,hardened black plastic. Seems like some phenolic material though-seems stout. Has anyone ever had one of these crack & leak? What is the real scoop on this plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 If you're looking at it while working on the engine, replace it. If you don't you'll be sorry later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 If you're looking at it while working on the engine, replace it. If you don't you'll be sorry later. So does this plate get brittle and eventually crack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Apparently, the word is that they warp, then leak. I am resigned to replace. The dealer says they redesigned the plastic baffles with stainless. They also replaced any phillips head machine screws with hex head machine screws. The dealer said they see more piston pin seal replacements and baffle or separator plate leaks than rear engine seals. They gave no indication on rear seal milage failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 The better question would be who hasnt had the plastic one leak. They all will eventually, usually right after you reinstall the tranny or engine. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sub2500leg Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 The better question would be who hasnt had the plastic one leak. They all will eventually, usually right after you reinstall the tranny or engine. nipper I did replace the separator plate, I couldn't remove the 2 phillips screws for the access plate. I know this was worthless, but I used a thin layer of ultragrey around that plate. This one is already a metallic plate, and the seal is holding fine. I have heard though that these fail as well. Any input on range of mileage failure would be very helpful since I still have access to try to replace it. The consensus is to leave the rear main alone since I only have 108K miles on it. Since I am changing most all seals, hoses and orings I thought of possibly hauling it to the dealer to change it out, couldn't be that much for labor since I have the part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Yes do not touch the rear main oil seal, as they are very finicky to get back on properly. They are rarely the cause of a leak. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now