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Timing Belt re-install tools issue


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FYI:

Engine: EJ25, DOHC, phase 1, year 98

 

Sorry to have to get on this subject again, I know there is a ton of info, have not read this issue yet.

 

I have the well documented Endwrench procedure, Sub. procedure, Haynes & Chiltons. I have had conflicting info on if it is entirely necessary to use the cam lock tool. There is some tool from Cobb, not sure if it is necessary. I am well understood on reinstalling the belt, tooth locations, cam locations , ect..., however I am concerned when I get the belt installed and release the tensioner pin that the cams might snap. It sounds like the tensioner has a very slow release. This is my 1st timing belt as you can tell.

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i'm in the middle of a 98 DOHC timing belt right now. very easy - line up cams, line up crank - install belt and done. i use no special tools. if something goes whacky while you're doing it, which it might your first time, just start over, line everything up again and install it.

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I would prefer to get it right the first time. I am wondering how to get it to not skip a tooth on the belt when it is all lined up and the tensionor is released. The guy at the dealer said use the large black bundle paper clips. It just seems that there would be too much force on it. On the other hand, I know the tensionor has a really slow release. I bought the cheap plastic cam lock tool at Napa. I may return it because it was $ around $58,is made of cheap plastic, and I will be lucky if I get more than one use out of it. No other parts stores had one.

I do have some cold rolled steel & thought of cutting a small piece off, then drilling 2 holes to lock the cams. I saw a similar design on a post. The Cobb tool looks like the most promising, but can't find it locally, and can't wait that long for shipping.

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My first TB job was on the 96 2.5 Outback of mine (DOHC)

 

I did not use special tools

It was not as easy as the last poster mentioned but doable

The problem is that the driver side cams are in tension when they are lined up

The upper will, if you are careful, stay in posion if you turn it by hand into position (slowly carefully)

I got the belt installed on both pass side cams....over the top pulley (Heading toward the drivers side)...around the center gear thing...around the tension pulley...over the drivers side cam sprocket (carefully)...rotate the lower driver side sprocket and slip belt on

All the while the lowest pulley (slightly on the pass side) is NOT installed.

At this point I pull up on the belt with that pulley and slip the bolt thru and find the threaded hole

Once it is together...pull the tensioner pin...it moves out fairly fast...but I don't think there is anything to worry about a tooth jumping at this point...won't happen

 

I did have to do this a few times because it is tricky....but I do this each time and it works

Would I like to have the tools? You bet...lol

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My first TB job was on the 96 2.5 Outback of mine (DOHC)

 

I did not use special tools

It was not as easy as the last poster mentioned but doable

The problem is that the driver side cams are in tension when they are lined up

The upper will, if you are careful, stay in posion if you turn it by hand into position (slowly carefully)

I got the belt installed on both pass side cams....over the top pulley (Heading toward the drivers side)...around the center gear thing...around the tension pulley...over the drivers side cam sprocket (carefully)...rotate the lower driver side sprocket and slip belt on

All the while the lowest pulley (slightly on the pass side) is NOT installed.

At this point I pull up on the belt with that pulley and slip the bolt thru and find the threaded hole

Once it is together...pull the tensioner pin...it moves out fairly fast...but I don't think there is anything to worry about a tooth jumping at this point...won't happen

 

I did have to do this a few times because it is tricky....but I do this each time and it works

Would I like to have the tools? You bet...lol

 

Yeah, I didn't mention it before, but my concern is the drivers side cams springing back. Once you have them into position, they stay in position, but seems that when that tensionor pin is removed the small amount of shock can make make the cams jump position. Had that happen on removal of the belt. Thanks for the post, it will help.

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You are over thinking this. Just line everything up with the belt on and then put pressure on the belt near the tensioner. see if all the marks line up. If not, reset the belt and go from there. Onec you have the belt on the cams they won't move, even the drivers side. I have done many of these and the tools are totally unnecessary. Just don't pull the pin until you are sure the marks are lined up.

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