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New to the forum, just bought a Loyale


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198K, bad head gasket, needs some cosmetics, but in very good condition for the $180 I paid for it. It has a 5 speed with AWD.

 

Along with the head gasket, it needs a new rear bumper, a new front turn signal bezel, and possibly a new tail light. Is there anywhere to find these parts cheap, especially the bumper, besides junkyards? Also, what is the best way to get the gasket replaced?

 

loyale.jpg

 

Thanks for all your help!

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It's 4WD not AWD - you should not engage it on hard surfaces.

 

There is no place to get the parts you need other that the dealer or the junk yard.

 

As far as the head gasket you should do that along with the timing belt, water pump, and all the hoses, seals and gaskets on the front of the engine. Look to spend about $250 in parts if you do it yourself or around $750 to $1000 for a shop.

 

GD

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Jeeez man you bought a rebuilder thats for sure. Depending on where you are is the ability of parts. I might just go ahead and say with 200k on the clock, instead of putting on new gaskets and not knowing whats in the motor that overheated. Find a low mileage motor from a j/y that you can verify runs and reseal that. New seals and timeing belts. Its not a turbo is it. What year is your loyale. Asking in teh parts wanted section will help abit, lots of people on here have parts wagons. But there in various states. Best Best bet is find a suby person on here to help you get aquanted with your car. Lots of peple have parts and these cars arent usually to expensive for jy parts. Welcome to the club.

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It's a 1990 N/A, it is actually in fairly good condition inside and out, no electrical problems whatsoever. I am going to pay to get the work done most likely, and have all of the seals and belts replaced. The guy I bought it from was an assistant manager at auto zone, and he said it ran good before it blew the gasket. I am going with my friend and a rollback for $150 to pick it up tomorrow.

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I am going to pay to get the work done most likely, and have all of the seals and belts replaced.

 

That's really a mistake - you will be into it more than the car is worth. You could buy a clean runner for just as much or less and have to put almost nothing into it.

 

You should be aware that the EA82 engine in that Loyale does not like being overheated and it's very probable that it was - thus the head gasket problem. Even with the engine fixed it may still need a radiator and who knows - if the guy works at autozone and can't fix the thing himself he may have tried a bottle of that head gasket repair stuff.... you don't want to do a heater core on that thing - trust me. Especially if you can't do it yourself. The cost to do a heater core replacement is as much as the entire engine reseal and head gasket job because of the 6+ hours of labor to pull the whole dash out.

 

Go find a nice 90 to 94 legacy. The Loyale line isn't what you want if you have around $1000 to spend. The difference is enormous.

 

GD

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That's really a mistake - you will be into it more than the car is worth. You could buy a clean runner for just as much or less and have to put almost nothing into it.

 

You should be aware that the EA82 engine in that Loyale does not like being overheated and it's very probable that it was - thus the head gasket problem. Even with the engine fixed it may still need a radiator and who knows - if the guy works at autozone and can't fix the thing himself he may have tried a bottle of that head gasket repair stuff.... you don't want to do a heater core on that thing - trust me. Especially if you can't do it yourself. The cost to do a heater core replacement is as much as the entire engine reseal and head gasket job because of the 6+ hours of labor to pull the whole dash out.

 

Go find a nice 90 to 94 legacy. The Loyale line isn't what you want if you have around $1000 to spend. The difference is enormous.

 

GD

 

He told me that an older lady was driving it when it blew and it hasn't ran since she brought it to a repair shop to have it fixed and decided not to because of the costs, where the guy I bought it from bought it. The coolant was mixed with the oil, I don't think he tried the fix a head gasket stuff; he said he would have fixed it if no one bought it. It's actually a fairly clean car as far as I have seen, and I think If I get it rebuilt myself I will know what's been done to it and have a reliable car.

 

Don't get me wrong; I know absolutely nothing about these cars and I might have streched out on a limb here.

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It doesn't look too bad, except for the primer that was sprayed on it. But anyhoo, yea theres alot of people with extra parts that they'll sell for a fair price (Plus shipping)

 

As for the HG, what side is it on? Passenger side is easier (More room) still need to losen the motor mounts and jack the motor up, the dirvers side has more crap in the way and most of the time people will take the engine out. And as for the shop, yes it will cost and if you have them do the T-belts will they really know how to time a Boxer? Alot of them make mistakes on cam timing. btw if you do the repairs your self, you'll learn about Subarus and know your vehicle even better.. Subarus arn't really that hard to fix. and c'mon how offen do you need to fix them? (Thumbs up)

 

The two tone looks kinda cool, thats the first Loyale I've seen with the chrome side moldings? only the 1985 and up GLs have that chrome strip :-\

 

I do agree with GD, if it was over heated (Most cases it was and thats what blew the HG) I would see about another running EA82 from a J-yard or someone on here that is selling one.

 

The EA82 is a good motor, it maybe slow but its a work horse. the EA81 is better (No Timing belts, EA81 uses internal gearing)

 

And welcome to the board! :cool:

 

-Tom

Edited by TheLoyale
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Thanks guys, I found a guy on ebay with brand new remanfactured heads for $125 each. Even with this it would be better to switch the engine out? I am still not sure why it is so bad that it overheated (If it did), as long as it didn't crack the head. I am not sure which side the blown gasket is on.

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Thanks guys, I found a guy on ebay with brand new remanfactured heads for $125 each. Even with this it would be better to switch the engine out? I am still not sure why it is so bad that it overheated (If it did), as long as it didn't crack the head. I am not sure which side the blown gasket is on.

 

 

The reason its not the best is cause, what else are you gonna have fail on ya? Just like GD said. Radiator, Heater core, even the rings could have issues.

 

Do you see any wetness under the cam cases on either side?

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Thanks guys, I found a guy on ebay with brand new remanfactured heads for $125 each. Even with this it would be better to switch the engine out? I am still not sure why it is so bad that it overheated (If it did), as long as it didn't crack the head. I am not sure which side the blown gasket is on.

 

they'll warp horribly bad, thats the big deal.

 

warped heads and/or block means your new headgasket probally isnt going to last too long

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I am going to go get it tomorrow, I will be sure and look. I will make sure and take detailed photos of it when I get it here If that will help.

 

Thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate it. I have already taken a liking to this little car and I really want to get it back on the road if at all possible.

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Thanks guys, I found a guy on ebay with brand new remanfactured heads for $125 each. Even with this it would be better to switch the engine out? I am still not sure why it is so bad that it overheated (If it did), as long as it didn't crack the head. I am not sure which side the blown gasket is on.

 

You don't need new heads. They don't crack severely enough to replace them except on the turbo versions. They may need to be resurfaced (about $35 - $40 each).

 

Let me lay it out for you:

 

1. The engine has close to 200k. At the least we can assume it's been overheated and generally neglected maintenance wise. The lady obviously didn't have the cooling system addressed in a timely manner so we can assume that other mechanical maintenance has probably not been done either. Anyway you can't be sure it has been. With that kind of mileage the bottom end may have very little life left in it. With PROPER maintenence the EA82's sometimes make it to 300k but it's the exception. Most that I see in the yards are shy of it by a fair amount.

 

2. It's more than just the head gaskets. The EA82's have troublesome cooling systems, poor oil seals, and a tendacy to make gnarly noises from their valve trains. With that kind of mileage it's just not worth the gamble to have a bunch of work done to it only to find that you have to repair something else soon after. Chances are VERY good that you will.

 

3. These engines are 1980's technology. The Loyale line was a continuation of the GL/DL line made from '85 through '89. It was a stripped down cheaper model for the inexpensive 4WD car segment - the Legacy line was introduced in 1990 as well and was the flagship model line with all the bells and whistles. They are also twice as powerfull, twice as reliable, and about the same price on the used market - hell someone just gave me one for free a few months ago.

 

4. The EA82, unless you are familair with working on them, or have a specific shop in mind that has a lot of experience with them, are frustrating and can be difficult to work on. The timing belt arrangement particularly is very unusual and throws a lot of uninitiated people for a loop the first time through.

 

5. Really, unless you are going to do the work yourself, you are MUCH better off finding a nice, running and driving legacy. The shortcuts that most shops take WILL come back to bite you on the EA82. I wouldn't trust anyone outside of a dedicated few on this board to properly maintain one. They are by far the most troublesome model Subaru has ever made. It is in your best intrest to back out of this deal and find a Legacy. If nothing else trust that I have nothing to gain by telling you to buy something else other than I don't want to see you have a bad first experience with a Subaru. I love them all, but a broken EA82 is not the answer for someone that can't do their own repair work and that has never owned a Subaru before.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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What amazes me GD is that time after time again you will take the time to put out detailed explinations on these vehicles. Over and over again newbe buy newbe.

 

Anywho.

 

Like i said, i agree with GD and The Loyale. Finding a new engine is easier then fixing the one you have. I dont know about what automotive knowledge you have but if youve got to hone and deck a block. Resurface the heads and seal the engine. Then whats the point. This isnt a hotrod ford or chevy. Its a econobox. Even the best turbo versions in these types of cars werent very good. GD is suggesting you get a legacy and where thats all and good they are a bit more pricey. Youve just got to look around. Personaly i have a 88 DL and i love it. 200k on a overheated motor is just to much to hastle. If you buy this car and you want to keep it going then i suggest either get a junkyard ea82 motor which will bolt right in. Or go a step further and do the legacy engine swap which is much more complicated. But if your just wanting a cheep beater for winter (these vehicles accel in the snow) buy a junkyard engine, verify its good and toss it in there. Double check the cooling system and there you go.

 

More Pictures Please

 

Ben

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What amazes me GD is that time after time again you will take the time to put out detailed explinations on these vehicles. Over and over again newbe buy newbe.

 

Seems to fall on deaf ears most of the time. Half the time I wonder why people ask for our educated and experienced opinions and then ignore it and do whatever they wanted to anyway? Oh well - I do help some folks occasionally. The rest hate me because the truth hurts.

 

Even seemingly VERY intelligent people refuse to beleive they have made a mistake - my co-worker got a "good deal" on a mitsi eclipse - 91 model. He's into it over $5,000 now - NEW engine, third used tranny, whole new exhaust, etc, etc. I had to say "I told you so"..... cause I did when he brought it home (not running) for $250 out of some meth-head's garage :confused:..... I said "that's a money pit if I ever saw one!".... exact words.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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Or go a step further and do the legacy engine swap which is much more complicated.

 

Ben

 

 

The Legacy motors he is talking about are the EJ20 to EJ25 (EJ25 being the newest motor which is in the Imprezas and Legacys of today) The EJ20 was the first gen Legacy engine.

 

Doing a EA to EJ swap will take a EJ20 or EJ22 (you can get both of these in turbo versions) anyhoo then you need a bell housing adaptor plate (A plate that will offer the right bolt pattern so the EJ will bolt up with the EA tranny) you also need the EA to EJ flywheel (Both of these items are availible from SJRLIFT.com and not to pricey) then you will need a wiring harness for the EA to EJ. Not sure where you can get one. I think the motor mounts on the EJ20-EJ22 are the same as the EA82s so that shouldn't be a prob. and of course your gonna need to take the EJs whole exhaust. and thats pretty much it, you'll be able to do all this most likely under $1000 (Depending how much the motor is)

 

Just some quick knowledge for you.

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Just some quick knowledge for you.

 

If he isn't comfortable taking a weekend to do HG's on an EA82 then he isn't even in the same ball-park with people that will attempt a motor swap of that magnitude. The mechanicals pale in comparison to the electrical system modifications that need to take place and frankly if he hasn't done electrical before then it will be a rolling fire-hazzard in all likelyhood.

 

I would not reccomend that route for someone that's never even been under the hood of a Subaru.

 

GD

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The Legacy motors he is talking about are the EJ20 to EJ25 (EJ25 being the newest motor which is in the Imprezas and Legacys of today) The EJ20 was the first gen Legacy engine.

 

Doing a EA to EJ swap will take a EJ20 or EJ22 (you can get both of these in turbo versions) anyhoo then you need a bell housing adaptor plate (A plate that will offer the right bolt pattern so the EJ will bolt up with the EA tranny) you also need the EA to EJ flywheel (Both of these items are availible from SJRLIFT.com and not to pricey) then you will need a wiring harness for the EA to EJ. Not sure where you can get one. I think the motor mounts on the EJ20-EJ22 are the same as the EA82s so that shouldn't be a prob. and of course your gonna need to take the EJs whole exhaust. and thats pretty much it, you'll be able to do all this most likely under $1000 (Depending how much the motor is)

 

Just some quick knowledge for you.

 

Youve come along way padawon. Your masters would be proud.:)

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If he isn't comfortable taking a weekend to do HG's on an EA82 then he isn't even in the same ball-park with people that will attempt a motor swap of that magnitude. The mechanicals pale in comparison to the electrical system modifications that need to take place and frankly if he hasn't done electrical before then it will be a rolling fire-hazzard in all likelyhood.

 

I would not reccomend that route for someone that's never even been under the hood of a Subaru.

 

GD

 

 

Yes very true, But I figured I'd give him some somewhat detailed knowledge of what TheDude was speaking of. :)

 

I don't have anythin better to do anyway Lol

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I am going to try replacing the head gasket myself. I figure if I can do it myself and the car lasts for 5,000 miles or so it will be worth it to keep long enough to figure out what I want to do with it. I hope the Hanes manual has detailed pictures :)

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IMG_2105.jpg

IMG_2103.jpg

 

After an immense cleaning. Tommorrow I am going to sand and primer the few rust spots and work on the interior some more. I am charging the battery as we speak; tommorrow I am going to turn it over and see how it sounds.

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HOLY RUST FREE SOOB BATMAN! The bay almost looks spotless along with the engine.

 

Why is the A/C pump where the Alt should be and visa versa?

 

 

The Hanes manuals are ok, I have one, but the Chilton is better (I have both plus a little of the FSM on pdf)

 

Well good luck on the HG, just hope the head isn't warped.

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