Rear Noise

[micgolub]

Hello

 

I have a 1983 GL Wagon - Automatic (4wd)

 

It makes this awful noise in the rear.

 

I think it is the wheel bearings, only because when I jacked up the car...I'd move the wheels from side to side and there is some give.

 

But could it be the rear diff?

 

There is no difference in the noise when the car is 4wd or 2wd.

 

I'm trying to avoid changing the bearings and then realize it was the diff.

 

Thanks

[gbianchi]

if your wheels have give its most likely brearings, differentials hardly ever have a problem unless they leak then are run dry,....................G

[Yo'J]

Bearings aren't that hard. I found mine a little rusty last time but better to pull than my ford still. I ground down the outside of the worn one to use as my installation tool.

[GeneralDisorder]

I've never seen a diff fail on an unmodified Subaru. It just doesn't happen unless someone runs them dry. They are known to last the life of the vehicle without ever changing or checking the fluid .

 

My money is on the bearings.

 

They aren't real easy to work on, and with you being in AK they may not want to come off at all. I would sugest, if you have access to any junk yards for parts, to get another complete trailing arm assembly. Cheaper that way too.

 

If you decide to replace the bearings, the ring nut socket is a very helpful item to have. There are several places online that sell them.

 

GD

[micgolub]

I was able to change the rear bearings out of a 1990 Subaru Loyale.

 

I didn't use a "ring nut socket" I just hit it with a punch to get it going.

 

Do they make a univeral ring nut socket or is there a specific one for subie?

[GeneralDisorder]

Do they make a univeral ring nut socket or is there a specific one for subie?

 

As far as I know it is specific. I have also just used a punch as you did before I had the socket - I did note that it was MUCH easier with the socket and an impact and it didn't damage the ring nut like the punch method. Here in the PNW there isn't any real rust issues like there can be in AK, so I figured it might be more difficult for you. If you can get it moving without the socket and don't plan on doing these often, then I say go for it.

 

GD

[micgolub]

OK, do you have a part number for the tool, "ring nut socket"?

[micgolub]

OK...I got the tool for the ring nut. I bought the last one they had in stock.

 

Any two issues so far. The bearings I bought from rockauto do not resemble what was in the car. However, it looks like the right size.

 

The original bearing had a 3-part race, and the bearings had a spacer.

 

The replacement bearing has one long race, and each bearing has "half" of that spacer.

 

One issue is how much slop should there be when reconnected. I'm trying to move the last bearing into position, and I cannot see if I am bottoming out. Usually you can hear it...but I didn't...it feels to move in and out a few mm's...

 

Second issue is that I cannot disconnect the rear cv axle from the other side. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster...but no movement yet.

 

Thanks in advance!