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Project: Rustoleum on Grandma


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Im going to attempt the rolled on rustoleum job on my Gl wagon. Y have already sanded it down with 220 and then 400 sand paper and removed the 2 lines going down the sides. My question is how do I remove the plastic trim on the doors and fenders, is it possible to do without breaking the clips that hold them in? I was thinking about just painting around them but thats even dumber :banana:

 

I already attended to the small dents and scratches with some glazing putty.

 

Materials purchased:

  1. 2qts sunburst yellow
  2. 1qt flat white clean metal primer
  3. pack of foam brushes
  4. 2 packs and roller refills
  5. 2 paint trays
  6. 220, 400, 800, 1000 grit sand paper
  7. glazing putty
  8. brown paper for masking
  9. masking tape
  10. 1gl of mineral spirits

Total came in at around $83 after taxes.

 

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no usually i do little spots that i can use rattle cans of duplicolor for or i have access to a air compressor and a gravity feed HVLP gun.

 

i'm not casting any judgment i am curious now. i guess if its the right kind of paint an its warm enough out the texture wouldnt be a problem.

is the rustoleum in the big buckets like that the same consistancy and mixture as the stuff in the spray cans?

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Niku there are huge threads on this subject. It does need to be a certain temp but no different then if you were useing a spray gun. You roll it on then wetsand roll then wetsand roll then sand it comes out great if you take the time to do it right. I would of gone this rout myself but i have lack of a garage.

 

Ben

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sweet, I've been waiting for somebody here to do that so I could see how it turned out... (: keep us posted...

 

I thought you could get to the trim clips from the back...

 

 

 

read this: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682

 

Yep, I removed the trim clips on my Brat through holes in the inside of the door. Just take the door card off and you can see them. Pliers worked just fine for most of them. The ones on the ends were tricky, though.

 

Jacob

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Quick question:

When I wet sand will I have to remask the car or will the tape hold?

 

If it's good quality tape and the surface was clean it might hold. It also might only partially hold and you may end up with bleeding later - I would remask it personally.

 

I'll be interested to see how your attempt turns out from a beginner standpoint. This method works great if you do it right it just takes some old-world techniques that aren't real common anymore.

 

GD

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hmm i wonder how hard it is to blend it into existing paint after getting it on.

the paint along the surfaces facing up (roof hood) were chipped badly and then just painted over, i am swaping the hood i belive so that would just leave the roof.

 

mabe i'll try this on the roof after i fix a few spots

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Just thought I'de throw this in... Rustoleum fades pretty fast, and scratches pretty easy. At least in my experiance. Though it is a very simple product to work with for a bit more you could have purchaced superior paints. I realize this is just an "expariment" but will be a shame to see your hard work dulling and fading in 8 months. If you have an extra hood, door, fender etc. laying around Ide use the Rustoleum on that for practice and when you get a real feel for it then you can consider using better products on the real car.

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With regards to the fading, a guy painted his corvair several years ago and has taken pics every six months or so. Still looks like it did when he was done. Keep in mind this isnt as simple as giving it a cote of rustoleum and your done with it. Decent automotive paint materials would have been around $150, then I need a gun to shoot it, a compressor, a place to do it etc. etc. This is simple, I guess keeping it waxed will help just in case it does fade.

 

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Just thought I'de throw this in... Rustoleum fades pretty fast, and scratches pretty easy. At least in my experiance. Though it is a very simple product to work with for a bit more you could have purchaced superior paints. I realize this is just an "expariment" but will be a shame to see your hard work dulling and fading in 8 months. If you have an extra hood, door, fender etc. laying around Ide use the Rustoleum on that for practice and when you get a real feel for it then you can consider using better products on the real car.

I totally agree with this.

Rustoleum is fine for say a race car that's going to get bashed up at the local short track on a friday night but not for a street car.

I sprayed white Rustoleum on a beater chevy wagon years ago.

Looked great at first but could just about stare and watch it fade.

The time and effort spent in prep doesn't justify cheap materials.

If you insist on the Rustoleum at least add a hardner to it to help with fading.

Don't breathe the stuff as isocyanates are really bad news.

As far as that Corvair in the web goes, white is the most resistant color to fading.

I'll also bet it sits in the shade when not being driven and washed and waxed often which really helps paint longevity.

Edited by jrfan
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I totally agree with this.

Rustoleum is fine for say a race car that's going to get bashed up at the local short track on a friday night but not for a street car.

I sprayed white Rustoleum on a beater chevy wagon years ago.

Looked great at first but could just about stare and watch it fade.

The time and effort spent in prep doesn't justify cheap materials.

If you insist on the Rustoleum at least add a hardner to it to help with fading.

Don't breathe the stuff as isocyanates are really bad news.

As far as that Corvair in the web goes, white is the most resistant color to fading.

I'll also bet it sits in the shade when not being driven and washed and waxed often which really helps paint longevity.

 

I do plan on adding hardener. I purchased valspar which seems to work good with rustoleum. There are plenty of examples of cars painted like this holding up fine. charger69 is the most famous who painted his charger orange around 6 years ago and has put 35k on it and still looks good. I guess I will see how it goes. I know reel paint is better but I cant afford it.

Edited by Caramanos2000
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Yea i was curious about the bedliner thing also. There is a thread on this very subject on this board. It can and does work. It wont fade any faster then any other cheepo rattle can paint job. So maybe he has to touch it up in 5 years. It will still be cheeper then a regular paint job.

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