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Anyone seen a rear hatch not open?


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A friend of mine's 96 legacy wagon won't open. The rear hatch just doesn't come open no matter how hard you squeeze the handle. She said she was able to get it open when her boyfriend pushed really hard from the inside while she pulled on the handle on the outside one time. Otherwise it's never been able to open.

 

How do you get to it to if it's "stuck" shut so I can look into the mechanisms of it?

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Happened to my 94, the handle broke so the rod wouldn't move, try looking up from the bottom to see if its broken on the outside, then you may have to use pliers to pull the rod down.

 

if its broken on the inside you may have to sacrifice the plastic liner if you can't get it out easily so you can open it from the inside.

 

 

Push down on the handle and then lock/unlock, i've had it that the handle stuck up and wouldn't allow the latch to unlock.

 

good luck

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I don't know how the hatch trim looks on that Legacy, but if you can climb into the back and pop loose the trim panel, you should be able to get at the insides of the mechanism. Depending on the problem (such as latch/striker misalignment), you still may be unable to open the hatch.

 

Does the hatch latch handle "feel" normal?

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Does the hatch latch handle "feel" normal?
good question. i just went and checked and i don't think it does but i'm not sure what it's "supposed" to feel like

 

it just moves with no feeling of resistance at all.

 

i compared it to my 2002 OBW. when that is locked, i feel the handle move, gets really tight (like it's pulling somethign), but doesn't open. when it's unlocked i feel the handle move, gets really tight and then *click* it opens.

 

on my friends 96 Legacy the handle just feels like it's moving freely, no resistance at all, but it does squeeze. it could be different than my OBW though?

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Sounds like the linkage came undone inside. This happened on my old '82 wagon. I had to pop off the inner plastic from inside to get access to it and see what was going on. If the '96 is still similar design to the '82, that's probably it.

 

Z

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Is the squeeze handle on the hatch rusty? That was my problem, so handle would bind and not retract fully when released by hand. I had to push the handle back down, then press the "lock, unlock" electric door button several times. Then press to the "unlock" position. Then, and only then would the squeeze handle work correctly to open the hatch. Finally, I replaced the rusty squeeze handle, and the hatch opens perfectly every time.

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i'll take a look tomorrow during the daylight, hopefully the trim is removable?

 

The inside plastic trim covers the entire metal portion of the hatch. It is only removable with the hatch open, or I guess removable with hatch closed by breaking.

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crack, thanks for the heads up rooster. time to pry from the top to have a peak until it breaks. maybe i can get enough room/visibility to push a latch or something?

 

luckily my 97 impreza cover is already off, so i'll have a working, exposed mechanism to look at right next to it. maybe that will help?

 

thanks for the help guys!

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crack, thanks for the heads up rooster. time to pry from the top to have a peak until it breaks. maybe i can get enough room/visibility to push a latch or something?

 

luckily my 97 impreza cover is already off, so i'll have a working, exposed mechanism to look at right next to it. maybe that will help?

 

thanks for the help guys!

 

On my OBW, the hatch interior cover is held on with plastic fasteners. Prolly the same with yours. The fastener has a plastic circular peg in the center of the fastener that forces the fastener's " 3 legs" to spread out and create a friction fit. Use a flat blade screw driver to gently pry up the edges of the fasteners to remove. The circular pegs will fall out, when the fastener is pried out. Be sure to find each peg to each fastener, as they are needed when reinstalling each fastener.

 

If your hatch exterior squeeze release is defective, new ones are available on line at parts stores or dealer. Cost is about $35 on line, $45 at the dealer. Two 10 MM nuts on the inside of the hatch hold the handle in place. A pry apart plastic clip attached to the handle holds the release rod in place.

 

Since you have another car to look at as a working example, you will have an easier time completing this project. Good luck!

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I've read some posts on here about the 96-99 series legacy wagons having rear hatch handles prone to rust. Mine is way rusty but so far still works, but sometimes I think it "feels" spongier then it should.

 

Let us know what you see when you get in there.

 

Will-

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Our MY98 has the same problem, if I push the handle the opposite way (push in from behind) then I can open it normally. I'll be ordering the backing plate soon as I have a feeling it will get stuck for sure sooner or later.

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Our MY98 has the same problem, if I push the handle the opposite way (push in from behind) then I can open it normally. I'll be ordering the backing plate soon as I have a feeling it will get stuck for sure sooner or later.

 

To fix the problem, you need to purchase the squeeze handle unit. Applying some white grease helps for a little while, but the problem will return again in a matter of months. Best to install a new handle unit.

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99OBW. I was often having to push the handle the opposite way before pulling to open the tailgate [worked nearly every time; if not, I added operating key back and forth in lock as well]. But since spraying lubricant upwards into lock/handle from the outside, it's worked perfectly for a year or so! Not too far gone, I suppose.

 

John

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What is this "push the opposite way" comment I'm seeing? What does that mean exactly, I don't quite get that.

 

When you squeeze the handle and then let go, it should spring all the way back to its rest position (handle toward front of car). When the mechanism gets rusty, it doesn't spring all the way back. If you push it to its normal rest position, then lock/unlock with the key or fob, it will probably allow you to open the hatch.

 

Please try this before busting up the interior panel. It's a common problem, and the above is the workaround.

 

Once open, spray some lube in there, and it will probably work again for a while.

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It also only costs about 25.00 to replace all the handle parts. It's a common issue. If the handle doesnt properly reset it wont open again.

 

 

nipper

 

this is also common to the 91-94 legacy wagons.....my old former turbo wagon had the won't go back to rest spot syndrome as well.

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there's no apparent rust issues on this car, but i guess you can't really see in there.

 

also - the handle springs back just fine, squeeze, let go, squeeze, let go - it goes back to normal position just fine.

 

doesn't really matter i guess, either way it's broke and needs fixed. didn't get to it today but i will in the next day or two and it appears i'll have to bust up the interior trim.

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Yeah my handle seems to spring back to home also, but I still need to push it, it doesn't so much move it any more as set the internal linkage to the proper position. I don't always have to do it either maybe 40-50% but I'm used to it so I do out of habit.

 

Did you at least try to push it from the back to see if it works or did you just squeeze and let go?

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I used to have the same problem on my 96 obw -- the handle would move back and forth with no results. I blasted the crap out of it with PB Blaster a few times, let it soak in for a while and voila, working handle.

 

Only now the trans is shot instead. D'oh!

 

 

Before replacement, my handle would squeeze, and then retract upon release, but because of rust, the handle would bind up upon release just enough to prevent the handle from operating the next time I wanted to open the hatch. If I pushed the handle back further toward the spring return, I could get it to open. What a PITA until I replaced the squeeze handle.

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On my 92 (sorry, my latest-model exemplar), it looks like it is possible to loosen up the panel from the top, probably getting enough room through gentle bending of the panel to get at the mechanism.
awesome, i'll give that a whirl. i'll at least douse it with PB Blaster first, then get more drastic as needed.
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