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'86 GL AC Compressor Question


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'86 GL wagon, 5-spd., 1.8, non-turbo, carbureted, base 5 engine, on-demand 4WD. Not modified in any way.

 

Need to replace the compressor. Is the compressor for this year & model a 1-groove, 2-groove or Sanden type?

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what do you mean groove? like the pulley?

and are you sure the compressor has gone bad?

i hardly saw any of these with a bad compressor they just loose redrigerant after some time and then the compressor wont kick on because thers no pressure

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what do you mean groove? like the pulley?

and are you sure the compressor has gone bad?

i hardly saw any of these with a bad compressor they just loose redrigerant after some time and then the compressor wont kick on because thers no pressure

 

Supposedly it was tested with one of those ampmeter thingies and found to be dead. I don't know. It was in an electrical shop that does everything to things that have engines. Very good rep here in town.

 

There was no refrigerant left in the system (after 23 years I'd expect not) and they tested the compressor before adding R-12 and said it was dead.

 

Looking at compressors online for my year & model/engine/blah-di-blah, there are 3 types that are always listed: 1 groove, 2 groove, and Sanden. I'm ASSuming that refers to the A/C pulley/belt tensioner or something like that???

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well 1 groove 2 groove would be i think but then theres this sanden thing, i donno.

there should be a pressure switch in your compressor, if theres nothing in the system its not going to kick on, you can bypass it but i would be wondering if they didnt bypass it correctly.

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when theres no pressure in the system the high/low pressuer switch opens the circuit. depending on how he tested it he might be wrong. as others stated compressors don't fail all that often.

 

usual failures are bad front shaft seal, failed/burnt clutch, and bad bypass (some cars).

 

fill the system with nitrogen (an inert gas) and check for leaks. while the sytem is filling you'll hear the pressure switch click to closed. then check the compressor circuit.

 

I'm an epa certified HVAC/R technician for both automotive and commercial/residential comfort cooling. I have serviced and repaired more cars than you can shake a stick at, and replaced compressors in only a handful of them.

 

Dig a lil deeper before condeming the compressor. I'm in las vegas if you would like to schedule an appointment:grin:

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when theres no pressure in the system the high/low pressuer switch opens the circuit. depending on how he tested it he might be wrong. as others stated compressors don't fail all that often.

 

usual failures are bad front shaft seal, failed/burnt clutch, and bad bypass (some cars).

 

fill the system with nitrogen (an inert gas) and check for leaks. while the sytem is filling you'll hear the pressure switch click to closed. then check the compressor circuit.

 

I'm an epa certified HVAC/R technician for both automotive and commercial/residential comfort cooling. I have serviced and repaired more cars than you can shake a stick at, and replaced compressors in only a handful of them.

 

Dig a lil deeper before condeming the compressor. I'm in las vegas if you would like to schedule an appointment:grin:

 

Thank you for that input. I was thinking I should (and will) get a 2nd opinion. I'm going to take it to the mechanic shop I've used for years and have them test it out.

 

And since you are "an epa certified HVAC/R technician" would you mid coming here and installing two new window A/C units for me? I need to get them out of my car, they're taking up too much space.

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What the tech probably tested was the compressor clutch's electromagnet. If this is shorted or open, the compressor won't engage. It is hard for me to imagine anyone checking the resistance of the clutch electromagnet by taking the measurement anywhere other than at the compressor's connector ("other" including the low-pressure switch in the circuit), but anything is possible.

 

Even with the clutch replaced, the front seal on the compressor might be toast if it has been several years since the compressor was last run. Its been 30 years since I worked on auto A/C, but back then our shop was charged about $50 for front seals. A new front seal and clutch might be quite a bit more than a good used compressor.

 

Going to another mechanic for a second opinion sounds like a good idea regardless.

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What the tech probably tested was the compressor clutch's electromagnet. If this is shorted or open, the compressor won't engage. It is hard for me to imagine anyone checking the resistance of the clutch electromagnet by taking the measurement anywhere other than at the compressor's connector ("other" including the low-pressure switch in the circuit), but anything is possible.

 

Even with the clutch replaced, the front seal on the compressor might be toast if it has been several years since the compressor was last run. Its been 30 years since I worked on auto A/C, but back then our shop was charged about $50 for front seals. A new front seal and clutch might be quite a bit more than a good used compressor.

 

Going to another mechanic for a second opinion sounds like a good idea regardless.

 

 

I never trust mechanic shops' 'conclusions' who don't work on old Subarus fairly often, especially when their bottom line is that it will take an expensive part to replace what's allegedly wrong.

 

As for the compressor, I was running it regularly last summer (and every summer before) and everything seemed to be working OK except the cooled air through the vents was becoming less & less cool. Very typical of finally using up the supply of freon that came with the car when I bought it in '86. When they said the compressor is bad I thought "What the _%_*_#_@_?" :-\

 

I'll get a 2nd opinion from a shop I use all the time (the AC had been looked at by specialty shop, not my regular).

 

When it comes to diagnosing cars my philosophy is to always start with the least expensive fixes and work up from there.

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it is important for You to know Which Compressor have your Subie, Because Subaru Used Two Different A/C Setups on the EA82 Engine, one -the more Known and seen- was "Hitachi" and the another -rare seen- was "Panasonic"

The Hitachi Compressor comes Between the Alternator and the Power Steerin` Pump (if it has that Feature), while the Alternator goes Next to the Battery; the Panasonic Compressor comes in the Place of the Alternator, next to the Battery and the Alternator goes Between it and the Power Steerin` Pump.

It is Hard to have a Really "Dead" Compressor, Usually the Many A/C Electrical Relays trend to Fail due to Age and Use, leading to a Whole A/C System Failure... if you are Completely Sure that there`s No Problem with your Subie`s A/C Electrical Circuits, then you can Start Searchin` for Leaks across all the System, Changin` the Rubber "O-Rings" and Testing it...

But if you are Not Sure about your Subie`s A/C Electrical Circuit, then I Suggest you to Check that First: it Runs on Three Relays.

Good Luck!

Kind Regards.

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