Trans, Clutch, or Both? Please Help!

[MischivousSlpwlkr]

This forum hasn't steered me wrong yet, and I am hoping today isn't the day that changes. The other day I was driving my 1996 OBW 2.2 5spd back to my home state of VT from boston when I started smelling something burning. I thought it was just engine oil, so I ignored it (it was leaking all over the rear of the engine/front of trans and burning on the cat). But then I started hearing whining noises, and then something started slipping severely. I popped it out of gear to get off the highway, and when I tried to put it back in, it wouldn't go. I had to get towed home.

 

Leading up to this, the trans slipped out of 4th gear whenever I coasted, and I drove the car for way too long with leaky tires that were impossible to maintain at the same pressure, I know I should've replaced them sooner, but I'm a poor grad student, and before that a broke ski bum, so it wasn't a priority.

 

I think my trans is gone, and I think that I should probably have the clutch replaced as well while the guy is in there.

I've found a mechanic (that a friend knows and trusts) who has a used trans that he will sell me for $300 (though he said he could prob drop that a little), plus $200 for instalation. Then another $200 for a clutch kit, plus $90 to remachine the flywheel (he said this is necessary for a new clutch. I haven't heard of this before). So, I'm looking at about $850 there.

 

Then, right before this happened the car failed inspection b/c the rear cat is shot. prob about $200 to replace that, and before the rear cat started leaking the check engine light was always on. It only shut off after the exhaust leak started. So I'm afraid once that is fixed, if the inspection guy is overly scrupulous, it may cause more problems.

 

So I'm looking at at least $1000 in repairs to get back on the road, and possibly more if inspection is a problem.

 

The car has 187,000 miles, but I've had a bunch of front end work done recently, the timing belt, water pump, front seals, new tires, breaks are good. Only other issue I'm aware of then the trans/clutch/exhaust is that the valve covers appear to be a little leaky, cruise control is broken, and obviously a bunch of interior lights don't work.

 

If I were to scrap it I think it is only worth a few hundred, and there is no way I could afford a car over $2000 if I were just to say screw it and start fresh.

 

What should I do???? :-\:(:(

[Legacy777]

Subaru recommends against machining the flywheel. It changes the engagement point and can cause some issues. Depending on the wear of the flywheel it should probably be replaced. If it is the original flywheel, it probably will have hairline heat stress cracks. You can probably find a lightly used one for reasonable money.

 

The costs sound reasonable. You may not have a toasted transmission, but without going into it, it'd be hard to say. You may just have problems with the clutch.

 

Regarding the rear cat. I would suspect the problem is probably with the O2 sensor, and not the cat. If the cat were bad/plugged you would have other engine drivability issues.

[MischivousSlpwlkr]

Thanks for the info. Could a clutch problem have been causing it to slip out of 4th?

 

The problem is that the rear cat is rusted out, so it leaks loudly at the joint where it meets whatever pipe it connects to. That's enough to fail it in VT.

[mdjdc]

If you are in the market for another outback, I have a friend that has a 96 outback that has been recently rebuilt. The only issue is with some rust on the roof and he is willing to let the car go for 1300. You could fly down here and drive it back for cheap. I'd even pick you up at the airport to help you out.

[davebugs]

What do you know? I always have the flywheel machined. My local auto parts does an excellent job. Capable of the "stepping" jobs as well if needed.

 

I figure at the price of a clutch kit why wimp out on the flywheel. I see it as completing the job. I haven't had one with hairline cracks yet perhaps I've been lucky?

 

Haven't had any issues in the last several years that I've been doing Suby's.

 

And it's not the thing to do?

 

These cars typically have 110-200k on them.

[Twitch de la Brat]

This forum hasn't steered me wrong yet, and I am hoping today isn't the day that changes. The other day I was driving my 1996 OBW 2.2 5spd back to my home state of VT from boston when I started smelling something burning. I thought it was just engine oil, so I ignored it (it was leaking all over the rear of the engine/front of trans and burning on the cat). But then I started hearing whining noises, and then something started slipping severely. I popped it out of gear to get off the highway, and when I tried to put it back in, it wouldn't go. I had to get towed home.

 

I'm not too sure on what that might've been.

Did you check your clutch linkage?

 

Leading up to this, the trans slipped out of 4th gear whenever I coasted, and I drove the car for way too long with leaky tires that were impossible to maintain at the same pressure, I know I should've replaced them sooner, but I'm a poor grad student, and before that a broke ski bum, so it wasn't a priority.

 

I think my trans is gone, and I think that I should probably have the clutch replaced as well while the guy is in there.

I've found a mechanic (that a friend knows and trusts) who has a used trans that he will sell me for $300 (though he said he could prob drop that a little), plus $200 for instalation. Then another $200 for a clutch kit, plus $90 to remachine the flywheel (he said this is necessary for a new clutch. I haven't heard of this before). So, I'm looking at about $850 there.

 

$300 for a new/used tranny isn't bad, but $90 to machine a flywheel?

Sounds like a total rip off to me.

My GF got her's machined for $45 at the local machine shop.

And your clutch should only be about $150 depending on where you go.

(hint: I went to csk/o'reileys and got one for $160 after tax)

 

Then, right before this happened the car failed inspection b/c the rear cat is shot. prob about $200 to replace that, and before the rear cat started leaking the check engine light was always on. It only shut off after the exhaust leak started. So I'm afraid once that is fixed, if the inspection guy is overly scrupulous, it may cause more problems.

 

So I'm looking at at least $1000 in repairs to get back on the road, and possibly more if inspection is a problem.

 

The car has 187,000 miles, but I've had a bunch of front end work done recently, the timing belt, water pump, front seals, new tires, breaks are good. Only other issue I'm aware of then the trans/clutch/exhaust is that the valve covers appear to be a little leaky, cruise control is broken, and obviously a bunch of interior lights don't work.

 

If I were to scrap it I think it is only worth a few hundred, and there is no way I could afford a car over $2000 if I were just to say screw it and start fresh.

 

What should I do???? :-\:(:(

 

I wouldn't scrap it because if you put that much into it, you could get at

least another 200k out of it, depending on the condition of the tranny.

 

Twitch

[98sub2500leg]

I was told by the dealer the same thing about the flywheel. On the last clutch job which I paid to have done, it was machined and it ran great. I decided to be safe & pay for all new parts again.

[MischivousSlpwlkr]

Thanks twitch, I think I'm gonna go for it with a different guy. A little bit shady, works out of his house, but is willing to do $25/hr labor, and won't charge for more than 7hrs.

 

He also found a transmission for me from a freshly rolled legacy, so I"m thinking about grabbing it. It is Trans # TY752VAAAA. Now, that is different from mine, which ends in ABCA. Unfortunately, the ABCA code isn't on the chart. However, the listed trans for the 95/96 outback seems to have the same gear ratios as the AAAA. Anyone know what the deal is? Will this work?

Edited June 12, 2009 by MischivousSlpwlkr

[98sub2500leg]

Thanks twitch, I think I'm gonna go for it with a different guy. A little bit shady, works out of his house, but is willing to do $25/hr labor, and won't charge for more than 7hrs.

 

He also found a transmission for me from a freshly rolled legacy, so I"m thinking about grabbing it. It is Trans # TY752VAAAA. Now, that is different from mine, which ends in ABCA. Unfortunately, the ABCA code isn't on the chart. However, the listed trans for the 95/96 outback seems to have the same gear ratios as the AAAA. Anyone know what the deal is? Will this work?

 

The last clutch had done I was referring to was by certified mechanic down the road. He also worked out of his home but had just as good a shop as any, worked on race cars for 30 years and a mechanic his whole life. After he did the job the alternator kept overheating. Finally realized he had severely overtightened the alternator belt which took the bearing. I think that just because the guy your referring to works out of his house doesn't make him any less qualified. There is a difference of philosophies and economics, and sometimes politics comes into play, but attention to detail is one of the best traits of a good mechanic. Even then, heck we are all human anyone can make a simple mistake now & then. Problem is in most cases there is no room for error. Good luck.