gwilson87 Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 Anybody want to come do the wiring on my car? I will pay you $100... There is a reason I failed my electrical engineering section test in basic engineering... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Todays work finished up my ghetto style radiator hoses, and an attempt at getting my fuel lines hooked up, it seems that by about 2pm my brain just kinda starts to shut down and some of the simpler things don;t make any sense. That made my daily attempt at getting something accomplished with the wiring was useless. I am REALLY struggling with this wiring thing. Pretty sure I cut out a lot of stuff I probably needed, but for all I know I just need to hook up 3 more wires and I'm golden. Either way it confuses me greatly. I also realized today that I have nowhere to mount a pitch stopper. It seems the car I got the trans out of had it hook up on the engine, and the car i got the engine out of, had it hook up on the trans. Hmmmm... that means I won't be able to go to the junkyard to find one until friday... Any suggestions from anyone on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STI_Wolf Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Really cool, Cant wait to see it on the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sxe111 Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 I didn't see a mount on your adapter plate for the pitch stopper. The adapter plate I got will let me use the Brat's pitch stopper. I have an extra one from a 95 legacy automatic. Not sure if it will work. Let me know if you are interested. I can send some pics with measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 (edited) Heres a link to the radiator hoses I used. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89415&highlight=napa+radiator+hose Scroll down to the bottom posts of this page. I went to napa and found some off the shelf. I run a 4/3 lift, and a stock ea81 radiator. These were almost perfect. I think I had to trim a little off the top hose. Hope this helps. I'm currently not running a pitch stopper. It only really bugs me in reverse because my y pipe will rub a bit on the engine crossmember. With your wiring just keep going. Eventually you'll either get it, or you will spend an afternoon rereading the pin out page of numbchux's write up and going pin to pin with a multimeter trying to get each one to read properly. There's not that many and you can do it. Leave ground wires on the harness and tie them together in a few places and make sure they are grounding. OH yeah and dont cut the yellow wire to the coil pack like I did! That took a little while to find. Keep up the good work, and it will be worth it! Daniel Edited August 2, 2009 by crockettbrat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 My buddy is hitting the junkyard in the morning and hes going to try and snag me a pitch stopper and bracket. AS for the wiring, I finally got my relays sorted out and started doing a bit of that, The thing that worries me the most is trying to get the dash wired properly. Any info someone can give me on wire colors and how to find out which wires from the brats dash go to what would be stellar right now. Today I finally got all the fuel lines and heater hoses hooked up. Took a bit to figure it but it SHOULD be hooked up properly. After getting that taken care of I got some tools picked up and put away trying to make the garage seem a little less crowded. Then I set in the brat with papers of wiring diagrams and started to chase wires around finding a few that I cut that I wasn't supposed to (daniel, what yellow wire are you referring to? Because i somehow decided a month ago to cut the main yellow wire going from the main/ignition relay from the 2.2 car and had to run a new wire there.) Hopefully tomorrow after work I can get stuff moving faster and possibly get this sucker running by tomorrow late night or wednesday afternoon!!! Cross your fingers everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 AS for the wiring, I finally got my relays sorted out and started doing a bit of that, The thing that worries me the most is trying to get the dash wired properly. Any info someone can give me on wire colors and how to find out which wires from the brats dash go to what would be stellar right now. Read GDs SPFI swap write up for the EA81 There is a section that specifically goes over preparing the EA81 Dash for a speed sensor and CEL(ECS) ligts It is pretty basic For the ECS light, you will need a spare wire end from the round dash connector of an EA81 or EA82. The connector ends come easily out of the plastic connector by prying a small tab inside. Get you're spare wire, then insert it into the pin slot your EA81 dash connectors. GD's write up has the specific color and location of which pin it is. The other part of it is the Speedo sensor wires. The EA81 speedo sensor has a black 2 pole connector coming out of the dash. It is one of the *T* shaped 2 pole connectors that were used in EA82 dash lighting, front speaker wires, and lots of other stuff. So find yourself a spare connector from a JY EA82 and cut it out of the harness. Wire it to match a Ground wire to the black one from the speedo sensor, and the other wire is the one that you hook to the EJ harness for a speedo signal. As a tip, you can use the connector for the original Fuel Pump control to tap into a Switched 12v, a ground, Tachometer, and 12v out to Fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Alright mostly wired up. GD's write up helped a lot. Getting the colors together and whatnot. Now my current question is this. Alternator wires... I have the EJ22 harness hooked up obviously to its alternator, but what about the wires from the EA81 harness? Do I splice those in? leave them alone? cut them out and bend them into stylish shaped wire art? Also, for running the ECU from the EJ22, Numbchux writeup said I can just put one wire going to the battery. Which one is it supposed to be? The pinout has "control unit power supply" B48 pin #2 and #13 then back up on pin #15. Should I splice #2 and #13 together and run that to the battery? Im so close to getting this thing finished, hopefully get it running tomorrow and start putting everything back together inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zstalker Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Back to getting the car to pass safety inspection and emissions, I'll be able to help you there. I'm an inspector over at Doug Smith Subaru. I won't pass things that shouln't pass, but I'll probably be more personable and helpful than most places...give you a more Subaru- and Old-Subaru-specific inspection (I'm rockin' an '84 Brat and '80 GL-10 Coupe). As far as getting the engine swap certified for emissions inspection, the guys down at the county emissions station in Springville are really great. They're a bunch of car guys and as long as you don't go in there being a jerk, they'll be really helpful. It's a really simple procedure...I got my SPFI Brat passed off, and Mark (the guy I deal with most) said that getting an EJ22 or EJ25 swap passed would be just as easy. Let me know anything I can do for you...including wiring, etc (if I have time...jeez, my life is crazy). ~Erik~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Zstalker, what are you doing tonight? MY goal is to have this thing running and back on wheels in time for a little bonfire thursday night. That means tonight is going to be a fun night of trying to get everything finished. Just the tedious wiring now... (oh... and the fact I have my front hubs off with two studs pounded out, and I need to extend my 4wd stick to accept the stock brat 4wd lever) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardtail_pride Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Hey just came across your swap! Holy cow thats a good looking Brat! Have you seen the farmers brats across the freeway? I want one but they are all rusted out like my wagon is right now. Good luck on the swap, if you need an extra hand im free in the afternoons to help turn wrenches! Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 So I am down to just a few wires. 1 being the starter switch wire. Am i just dumb and this get hooked up onto the starter? It is on B56 pin 10. What do i do with that little wire? And still my conundrum of the alternator wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 I really should have started on this right after work instead of playing on the internet. Here is my current list of wires to be figured out. Starter Switch clip B56 pin 10. Neutral Switch clip B58 pin 10. Read Memory Connector clip B56 pin 12. And finally back up power supply B48 pin 15. That is all I need before i try to start it. for some reason I have an intense fear of somehow burning up my ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 I really should have started on this right after work instead of playing on the internet. Here is my current list of wires to be figured out. Starter Switch clip B56 pin 10. Neutral Switch clip B58 pin 10. Read Memory Connector clip B56 pin 12. And finally back up power supply B48 pin 15. That is all I need before i try to start it. for some reason I have an intense fear of somehow burning up my ECU. Relax. You aren't gonna burn it up, and if you do there are Thousands more ECUs. Starter switch could either be wired to the starter Solenoid signal wire. Or, you could tap into the *start* position wire in the ignition switch. either way, it should only get power when the starter is engaged. Read memory connector stays ungrounded unless you are trying to read codes. So it could be ignored ofr now. Nuetral switch can be ignored for now, or you can wire it to a clutch switch. Scavange one off an EA82 with cruise. I did nothing for it on my SPFI swap, and don't get any CEL or problems. Different ECU though Finally *back up* power, I am thinking that is constant power from batt. But it is better to tap into a fused circuit rather than run a line straight to the battery. I believe there is a fuse labeled ECU in the fuseox that I tapped for my swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 6, 2009 Author Share Posted August 6, 2009 Stellar, Thanks for the info. I wish I didn't have to wait another 5 hours to get off work and head home to get this wiring finished. Tomorrows project is to get the wiring finished, and then get the hubs done. pictures will be included in the hub conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 6, 2009 Share Posted August 6, 2009 Hey there: I've been off subs for the last couple days dismantling a landrover. I'll check my wiring when I get home. For the CEL light I strung the wire from the ecu directly to the round plug behind the dash. I followed the lines on the printed circuit board behind the dash from the CEL bulb back to the round plug. I didnt hook up the neutral switch and dont get any codes after several thousand miles. Any yellow will be power to something on the ej harness so if something you are keeping has a yellow wire dont cut it. I'll fine the wires from my ecu to the CEL when I get home and post up what I did. You are not going to have enough dancing bananas when this thing fires up!:banana: Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 It turns over but won't start! What are a few of the first things to check about this issue? I do believe everything is wired up. Got to head out for the night but will try again in the early morning. TOMORROW... IT RUNS!!!! Maybe tonight depending on my motivation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 And here I am still waiting on my harness that I sent out as you started.:-\ But for you..... Nice to hear your almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 Sooo... I went biking all day instead of working on the car. FYI it was AWESOME!!! Anywho,I found out this morning that I am not getting spark and i am not getting power to the ignitor. Also my spark plugs were crap so I get some generic ones to go for now. Another thing I found out, these things. What are these relays for and why are they getting hot when the ignition is in "on" ? More pictures and questions to come I am sure. It supposed to rain tomorrow so plenty of time to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 8, 2009 Author Share Posted August 8, 2009 I'm not getting power to my ignition pack even though I have chased wires over and over and over. Also not getting any power to my injectors from the ECU. I have power to the ECU but for some reason nothing to the injectors. any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 (edited) As I recall you should only have the main ignition relay and the fuel pump relay from the ej harness. If they are getting hot then you probably arent grounded properly. I believe the one on the left is the fuel pump relay because of the black red wire although on my ej harness the plug was green. There was a large yellow wire and small yellow wire, a green black wire and the black red on the fuel pump plug that goes to the relay. The main ignition relay was a brown plastic box. Not sure what year your harness is from, but IIRC that black red wire goes to the fuel pump. If youre not hearing your fuel pump come on for a second or two when you turn on the ignition then you've got a problem. I would start by making sure your fuel pump is working because that will tell you easily if the main relay is working properly. Do you get 12v anywhere on the ej harness when the ignition is on? Do you have a direct line from the battery to the ecu (fused!) and switched power from the ea ignition switch to the ej main ingition relay? I bet your problem is with the switched power to the main ignition relay, and ground wires. Daniel Edited August 9, 2009 by crockettbrat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crockettbrat Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Oh yeah, refer to page 21/22 of numbchux ea2ej write up. This will help sort out the power to the main relay. Good luck. I tried to get into my harness to take pics but it is buried deep in my dash and covered in electrical tape. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 those two relays were behind my brats fuse panel hence why they look odd. My legacy relays are green and brown. They might have gotten hot having the car in "on" for a while while I played alien, probing around little places with my test light and multimeter seeing what happened. I will check the fuel pump tomorrow (been a long disappointing day, time for a movie with the wife) My current thoughts are these. My main relay works when hooked up straight to the battery, I can hear it click as it connects the two output posts (fuel injectors,ecu power, O2 sensor, according to my diagram) but when its hooked to the harness, and turned to "on" it doesn't shut. I did have the wire for the 'backup power" on the ecu but ti was run through a 30a fuse rather than the recommended 10a SO! pretending at the moment my ECU isn't fried here is the wiring diagram I have been using. Colored in for ease. The light green wire coming from the ECU to the main/ignition relay is what gives it power to turn on correct? If so then my ECU isn't sending power to that because the relay does not open. I have checked the wiring for it and it is properly done and grounded. I am certainly thinking it was bad of me to run the constant power through a 30a fuse but that might just be a days worth of frustration coming through. The other reason why I say the ECU isn't running power through the light green wire, is that ignition coil isn't getting any power through the diode (which I have checked multiple times and its good). So yeah, thats where I am at. sorry the pic is small Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwilson87 Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share Posted August 9, 2009 http://picasaweb.google.com/glennwilson87/Brat#5367798128918027554] You can zoom in on the picture to actually see stuff here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 I think you are thinking about it backwards. The ignition relay SUPPLIES the power to the ECU. It does not GET it's power from the ECU. THat is a crappy diagrahm by the way. I don't see the power supply line to the ignition relay. I see a *hot in start*, I wonder if they mean hot in run. You really should get a FSM diagrahm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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