eppoh Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Getting ready to replace an axle shaft on my 98 Brighton. What size axle nut socket will I need? Also, what size pin punch will I need to drive the roll pin out of the shaft? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 The nut is 32mm. I used a 3/16" pin punch, but there is probably a small range of sizes (inch and metric) that will work. There are several good threads on this board about axle replacement. I have them bookmarked on my home PC, I can post the links if no one does it before I get home this evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 obviously we can discuss the multiple ways there are to pull the axle whichever works easiest...different strokes for different folks.. However you mentioned a punch for the inner spring pin...Personally I purchased this and for the price I believe its def. worth it...... http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/LT730.jpg ..makes the job easier plus its long enough to reach right down by the cat. conv....Than again I do hundreds of these... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 A regular punch tends to be a real pain but they do work. Ebay has the "foreign" i think they call them, longer pin punches. I need to get one. The normal punches are typically not long enough to punch the pin all the way out and require you're hand to be right next to the axle - mostly a pain on the passengers side. If you have to resort to one of these smaller punches, you can "extend" them by putting a socket/extension over the ends of them. The nuts are 32 mm 99% of the time. 1/2" socket wrenches and breaker bars can break trying to loosening these nuts, they are EXTREMELY tight. i've broken 3 or 4 breaker bars on them, before I finally got a 3/4" drive and air tools. The axles can be replaced by removing only one bolt - the top strut mount bolt. Mark it's orientation (the head, not the nut) to reinstall the same way as it affects alignment. Loosen the lower bolt, pull the strut/hub/axle outward. It's tight but the axle comes out. This is by far my preferred method and almost a necessity if you have any rust issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 grossgary said: The nuts are 32 mm 99% of the time. 1/2" socket wrenches and breaker bars can break trying to loosening these nuts, they are EXTREMELY tight. i've broken 3 or 4 breaker bars on them, before I finally got a 3/4" drive and air tools. Whatever you do, DO NOT push down on the wrench plus cheater pipe with all your weight. When it lets loose (or something breaks), you will smash your face on the car and break your nose. Personal experience talking here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) grossgary said: The axles can be replaced by removing only one bolt - the top strut mount bolt. Mark it's orientation (the head, not the nut) to reinstall the same way as it affects alignment. Loosen the lower bolt, pull the strut/hub/axle outward. It's tight but the axle comes out. This is by far my preferred method and almost a necessity if you have any rust issues. I can't picture this. Are you saying remove the upper of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut? Planning on using an electric impact wrench for the axle nut. Quote There are several good threads on this board about axle replacement. I have them bookmarked on my home PC, I can post the links if no one does it before I get home this evening. It will be a couple days before I get to this, so please do post those links. Edited June 15, 2009 by eppoh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) eppoh said: I can't picture this. Are you saying remove the upper of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut?yes, the strut is mounted to the hub with two lower bolts - 17mm bolts. Remove the top one and loosen the other (so the hub can rotate "out" away from the car). Mark the head position of the bolt relative to the strut body so you can install it the same way it was originally installed and maintain your alignment. The strut body and bolt head actually have existing marks on it too, but a marker or chisel (if it's too dirty for a marker) is what I use. It's a tight fit, but pull it off the trans first and it will come out. Be careful installing the new axle, don't tear the boot. The axle only installs one way on the transmission - out of the two possible alignments of the holes for the axle pin, only one is correct. it's actually easy to tell ahead of time though if you look at the axle, look at the splines and match it to the trans shaft. Edited June 15, 2009 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avk Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Unbolting the control arm from its forward mount on the crossmember gives enough play to slide the inner joint off the stub shaft. The sway bar also has to be disconnected from the arm. It's an easy method, except that the suspension needs to be loaded when tightening those bolts during re-assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Here's the threads I mentioned earlier. They contain good info. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80226&highlight=axle+swap http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eppoh Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share Posted June 15, 2009 Thanks for the links. Looks like some good instructions, but leaves me with a question: no where in edrachs write up does it say anything about removing the brake caliper and rotor. Isn't it necessary? I did not see any pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) eppoh said: no where in edrachs write up does it say anything about removing the brake caliper and rotor. Isn't it necessary?necessary for what? replacing the axle - no. remember my comment above - once the wheel is off, only need to remove ONE BOLT to do this job. doesn't require touching the brakes. Edited June 16, 2009 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 I don't know if removing the caliper is necessary, but since it's only one bolt, I do remove it so as not to be in danger of stretching the brake line. On the roll pin, make sure you bang on it from the correct side as mentioned in those posts. Real frustration saver there, go ahead ask me how I know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 lostinthe202 said: I don't know if removing the caliper is necessary, but since it's only one bolt, or two bolts. Subaru liked to change brake caliper styles with the tides :rolleyes: i digress, i'm bitter over the stores lack of ability to find the right pads!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 grossgary said: or two bolts. Subaru liked to change brake caliper styles with the tides :rolleyes: i digress, i'm bitter over the stores lack of ability to find the right pads!!!! caliper styles and transmissions eh? What else will be added to the list. How 'bout some consistency people!!!??? hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zefy Posted June 16, 2009 Share Posted June 16, 2009 there is a bit of incorrect info in here. they two strut bolts are 19mm not 17mm. make sure you have a 19mm socket AND a wrench/other racket to hold the other side. also put a mark on the top bolt and strut mounting ears so you can set the camber bolt correctly. the centre nut is 32mm. bigger the breaker bar the better. the brakes do not need to be removed or messed with. just make sure you don't rip out the brake line when you're getting the axle out. also for the roll pin here is a little tip. instead of spending tons of money on specialty punches or worse wasting your money on a punch that isn't long enough just get yourself a junked subaru starter. the long bolts that hold the starter case together are PERFECT for the task. GL with the install! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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