Rust Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 normally it runs at 45 between 3,000-4,000 rpms. today it shot up to 85 at 3500 rpm and stayed there for the last 1/2 hour of the commute. went back down to 45 at idle. No change in water temp, no smoke or engine pinging. I change the oil religiously at every 3,000 miles. Some loyales don't even have an oil pressue guage, if I didn't have one in my dash cluster I wouldn't have even senced any problem at all w/ the engine. Any suggestions??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 First of All: Check the Oil Pressure Wire Comin` from the Oil Pump`s Sender Unit, for a Grounding... if the Wire Somehow is Grounding, the Gauge will go Up and Stay there... if it Stays there for a while due to a Grounding, then the Gauge`s electrical Resistance will get Damage and then the Gauge will Drop down Below the 0º when Engine`s Off... If There is no Grounding on the Wire, maybe the Sending Unit is Damaged, or there could be a Problem with the Oil Filter... But I Hardly Believe there could be a Problem with the Oil Pump that Could Manage it to Raise to High Oil Pressure While doin` Cruise Speeds... Damaged / Sucked Seals Maybe? Good Luck. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 my sending unit read super high before it died, it had been replced once before and had a HUGE bulb thing on it instead of the usual little can. dont be suppried if one day it doesent read any thing, i grabbed a few from the junk yard. i suggest go gettin one or 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I have an extra sending unit, I'll check the wires too. I thought it might be a faulty guage because the engine is running fine. Thanxs for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Check the pressure with a good mechanical gauge. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 First of All: Check the Oil Pressure Wire Comin` from the Oil Pump`s Sender Unit, for a Grounding... if the Wire Somehow is Grounding, the Gauge will go Up and Stay there... if it Stays there for a while due to a Grounding, then the Gauge`s electrical Resistance will get Damage and then the Gauge will Drop down Below the 0º when Engine`s Off...If There is no Grounding on the Wire, maybe the Sending Unit is Damaged, or there could be a Problem with the Oil Filter... Resurrecting this old post because I'm having this high pressure reading and the guage drops below zero when the engine is off so the recommended check for a ground problem sounds applicable. How does one check for grounding in this wire ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 I think what he was talking about was if the wire is frayed, melted, or damaged it could be grounding out along the path. just make sure the wire is intact all the way through the motor compartment. if the wire lays on something hot, or vibrates a lot it can dmg the sheilding. also pull it away from other things that may cause problems like other wires or metal where you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Yea, or if it is even plugged in.. I freaked out for a few miles when i was driving through Wyoming because I went from a good pressure to ZIP. turned out it came loose and fell off. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 the wire is connected to the sending unit by a screw so the connection is solid. the wire travels up only a short distance where it folds into a large group of wires inside a plastic split tubing. On the other end of that length of wire bundle is a plug which connects to another bundle which goes into the fender wall by the battery and I presume on into the cabin behind the dashboard. There is no good way to trace the wire through all the way back to the guage. When I touch an ohm meter to the screw on the sending unit and the other to the engine block there is continuity, indicating it is grounded (?) I have no idea how to replace that wire ..... suggestions ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Well... it is Grounded for Sure... it could be the Wire itself grounding somewhere and/or a sender unit fail. I Kindly suggest you to remove the wire on the Sender unit at the Oil Pump and Measure it again with a tester, if it is grounded, then there is the Culprit. If the Sender is not grounded, you shall Follow the wire all the way up, unwrapping it from the source, 'till you find where it touches bare metal or somehow it reaches a ground source. Good Luck! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 (edited) ok, I disconnected the wire from the sender and it still indicates grounding. I want to isolate the chunk of wire which may be grounded and since there is a break point at a plug by the battery that is my target. But the plug is not cooperating. How do I open this plug? Is it a twisting motion, or is there something I should be depressing, or ??? ============================ UPDATE: Got the plug apart. Had to remove the battery to get some room. It's a lift-tab,pull-apart setup. Once apart, I was able check for grounding in the length of wire between the sending unit and the plug which turned out to be ok. Checking the open terminal on the opposing plug end I see the grounding still exists. The problem lies in the length of wire which goes into the fender wall, then into the cabin. ============================ UPDATE2: Found another plug inside the cabin near the brake pedal for the culprit wire (yellow with a thin black stripe), so I was able to isolate the length of wire in the fender wall. That length of wire is also ok. So the problem of grounding has been narrowed down to the length of wire between the plug by the brake pedal and the oil pressure gauge. Odd there would be grounding inside the cabin (?) I'll see if I can find a way to disconnect the wire from the gauge and isolate this last length. ============================ UPDATE3: Couldn't find an easy way to access the gauge without disassembling the dashboard, so I thought I would eliminate another variable by replacing the old pressure sensor. ordered a replacement and installed it with some strange results. The new pressure sensor produced virtually no movement in the gauge. I put the old one back on and the gauge moved as it did before. I can only assume the new sensor is a bad one, RockAuto said they would send me another new one again. Edited August 7, 2012 by Dee2 status report Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 (edited) The 2nd new pressure sensor was installed and produced only a small amount of movement in the gauge. It went from well below zero to almost zero. Interestingly, the amount of movement is about the right amount for normal operation pressure. I now think the problem is the gauge needs to be reset/recalibrated to zero when the engine is off. I will start a new thread for this specific issue here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1127696#post1127696 Edited August 9, 2012 by Dee2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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