Audio question

[ettev]

Upgrading the audio in the Brat project.

 

Pioneer DEH-P6000UB stereo with Sirius

Kenwood KFC-1687 6" rounds in the doors

Pioneer TS-TRX5 boxes behind the seats

Not certain yet but MAYBE a smaller (10") cheap subwoofer

Pioneer GM-4300 amp pushing them

 

Question: What size (gauge) speaker wire? I'm thinking 16 ga. Also, if I go with a subwoofer is it absolutely necessary to put it in a box enclosure or can I hide it up under the dash without a box?

Edited June 27, 2009 by ettev

[gwilson87]

I might be wrong but im PRETTY sure in order for the subwoofer to do its job, it has to be in some sort of box enclosure.

[Ever Victorious]

Speaker wire: no thicker than 16ga unless you're running an amp for the speakers. Guessing not, since space is at a premium in the BRAT.

 

Sub: You can place it wherever you want. I don;t know of any place in the dash large enough to hide a sub. And be aware that you're not just mounting the sub, but an enclosure box FOR the sub as well.

 

Alternative Sub plan: http://www.amazon.com/Boss-BASS600-Profile-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B000OSZA44/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246142300&sr=8-5 or http://www.amazon.com/JVC-CSBB2-6-Subwoofer/dp/B000EYB6DC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1246142316&sr=1-1 or something similar, hidden under the passenger seat or on the cab wall. I've done something similar in 2 other cars so far and they give decent bass...not as much as a dedicated 10" sub, but they require little or no modification and very little space.

[ettev]

Alternative Sub plan: http://www.amazon.com/Boss-BASS600-Profile-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B000OSZA44/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1246142300&sr=8-5 or http://www.amazon.com/JVC-CSBB2-6-Subwoofer/dp/B000EYB6DC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1246142316&sr=1-1 or something similar, hidden under the passenger seat or on the cab wall. I've done something similar in 2 other cars so far and they give decent bass...not as much as a dedicated 10" sub, but they require little or no modification and very little space.

 

Those slim subs look interesting. I was going to go with a 6 or 8 inch Bazooka Tube but I may look at these. Thanks for the tip. I'm thinking the 6" would be plenty in the cab of a Brat, right? Both are similar in size so should I go 6 or 8 inch on the slim subwoofer?

 

I'm definately running an amp located under the passenger seat so one of the slim subs would work under the drivers seat. Since I'm running an amp thats why I was leaning 16 ga. wire.

[Ever Victorious]

Replied to your PM.

[Scoobywagon]

Yes, you can run a sub without a box so long as it is mounted to some kind of baffle. Doing so requires LOTS of power and a cheap sub is just not gonna deal with that.

 

A pancake sub is probably a better answer, but be aware that they tend to not perform as well as a more traditional sub. Its those pesky laws of physics.

 

Depending on what kind of music you listen to, a 6" might work. As a rule, however, I'd advise you to go with the largest possible subwoofer. It will move more air and so provide a more satisfying sound. And there are some 10" pancake subs that can fit in there.

[ettev]

And there are some 10" pancake subs that can fit in there.

 

Who makes'em?

[Ever Victorious]

As I mentioned, Kenwood used to make one... it was called the KSC-SW1. It has been replaced with the KSC-SW10, which is a pair of 5x7" woofers.

 

I don't know of any other 10" models, nor see any on either Crutchfield or Amazon.

[Scoobywagon]

Memphis Car Audio make a pancake sub. Its available in both 10" and 12" sizes. The 10" will fit (and play properly) in .3 cuft. Read up here.

 

Let me know if you want one. I can either get you one or locate a local dealer for you.

[ettev]

Can someone confirm or dis-spell something I heard many years ago? Is it true that standard lamp cord works just as good in car applications for speaker installations? Pros & cons if any?

[Ever Victorious]

Speaker wire is just two wires running next to each other, separated by sheathing, like lamp wire.

 

MOST lamp wire is thicker than 16ga (ridiculously thick for the application). In my experience, lamp wire's sheathing is less flexible and becomes brittle quicker. Probably not the best for automotive applications, especially when you can pick up a spool of decent speaker wire from Best Buy or Radio Shack for just a few bucks.

[Scoobywagon]

I'm not sure what causes it, but it has been my observation that lamp cord also oxidizes MUCH more quickly than wire sold as speaker cable. The only theory I have on this is that speaker wire is usually sold "OFC" or Oxygen Free Copper where lamp cord is not. It may just be that lamp cord wire already has some oxidation (Lower QA standards?).

[Don_Quixpunch]

Speaker wire isn't that expensive. It's made for high temp environments and intended to withstand lots of vibration and flexing.

 

I'll admit that I'm a bit of a geek when it comes to my car audio, but I always use at least 12 gauge wire for amplified speakers. I've gone as big as 6 gauge for woofers.

 

It's really helpful go with larger gauge wires to supply power to your amplifiers as well. Too small of wires will damage your stereo gear and won't give you the best possible sound.

 

I'm fairly knowledgeable about car audio, so feel free to message me any questions you might have. And here is the URL for my favorite car audio reference site http://www.the12volt.com. They have lots of charts to help you figure out wire gauges, as well as tools to help build crossover networks, guides to doing things with relays, advice on selecting speakers, and tons of other stuff.