Uberoo Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I just tore down the front of my engine because the front main seal went bad. While I am there I might as well fix alot of the seals there. I ordered new cam seals and new front main seal. the front main came with seals/gaskets for the oil pump. I have all the bolts off the oil pump but it wont budge at all. Also what is the best way to get the passenger side cam seal off without screwing stuff up?I dont have the tool,wish I did but I dont. I was about to get the main and driver side cam seal off,but scratched the surfaces and then polished them smooth again with some fine steel wool.I would just rather not go through that again. Otherwise, I suppose I can just see how much longer it will last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 (edited) It's sounding like you're not using Suby seals. I'd rethink that. The reason I say this is that Subaru doesn't have a gasket for the oil pump - just the Oring. Other than that it's Ultra Grey. I use a pic to get the seals, if they are stubborn sometimes I use a very long shafted thin screwdriver and use it to push them out at the bottom typically. I put it between the shaft and seal on the side, get it past the lip, then lift the handle up and push it in a bit more. Then I really puch it out from the bottom back rather than pull it out. You may have to do this on both sides of the shaft. I just received the Lisle tool last week and haven't used it yet. But I've got 2 to do next week if I can get the time. The idlers should arrive on tuesday. The oil pump is kinda glued on there from the factory. I usually end up prying it best from the bottom IIR. Either the oil pump or water pump has a bolt or 2 in weird recessed places. Double check by eye and feel to make sure you got them all. Please update the original post to reflect what year, and engine size just for kicks. For pointers like the oil pump screws particularly on the 2.5. If it's a 2.2 and a 95 to 98 or so you wanna do those thin cam Orings as well while you're in there. Edited June 28, 2009 by davebugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 its a 93 with the 2.2 sorry. I already threw away the gasket and plan on using a thin film of red rtv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Sometimes that oil pump Oring can be a bugger to stay in place. I often use petroleum jelly to hold it. It's been a while since I did a 94 or earlier. If those have the thin Orings - one behind the drivers side cam seal and the other on the back of the engine on the pass side I'd do them as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 I already threw away the gasket and plan on using a thin film of red rtv. Don't do that. Use Ultra Grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Don't do that. Use Ultra Grey. I wasn't gonna say anything. There are a lot of red RTV's out there. For all I know it'll work. I was concerned that he's not using Suby seals. Suby doesn't have an oil pump gasket. That's why I assume he's not using Suby OEM parts. But it could be like the recent guy that used Ebay HG's. When he does it again it'll go much quicker. Ultra Grey is all that you need for a Suby. It's a little stiffer getting it outta the tube and after it sets up. It's all I use on Suby's. Not red, or Blue, or Black, just Ultra Grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 Reason I pushed Ultra Grey is it's Subaru's acceptable substitute for the original anaerobic sealant. Uberoo--don't spread it out like a film. Lay it down as a small continuous bead in a specific pattern. Check a Haynes manual or search here on USMB for where it goes. And don't overdo it, you don't want any getting into oil passages. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 The cams also have an oring behind the cam cap, which holds the seal. you'll see 3 10mm bolts holding the cam cap in place...i think it's three. remove those and the entire cap comes off. then the seal is much easier to remove. it's kind of pointless to replace the seal and not the orings, they are hard, brittle and prone to leak now and only cost a couple dollars and takes only a couple minutes to replace. this same oring resides on the passengers side rear of the engine two. just remove the two bolts holding that little cap in place and twist it out. i use a screw driver to pry the seals out, but you gotta be careful. thing is, if you tuck it under the front of the seal, but just behind it, the outer sealing surface is protecing the inner metal from scratching, so if you're careful you cant' really scratch it once you get used to it and see it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 so how do I get the cam cover plate back on without breaking it?Ive been lightly tapping it in with a hammer and it works great until it gets close to the block then one of the mounting ears breaks off, because the plate isnt 100% perpendicular to the head.Ive broke two plates like that.The second one is being welded today because there isnt any more plates around here. So do I get the stupid thing in without breaking it? Also what is the easiest and quickest way to change the oilpan?I got another oilpan because it was less dented than mine so I want to install it before I put a skidplate over it.Just not seeing an easy way to do it.Do I have to pull the motor?If so, screw it, my dented pan isnt leaking so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 The cams also have an oring behind the cam cap, which holds the seal. you'll see 3 10mm bolts holding the cam cap in place...i think it's three. remove those and the entire cap comes off. then the seal is much easier to remove. it's kind of pointless to replace the seal and not the orings, they are hard, brittle and prone to leak now and only cost a couple dollars and takes only a couple minutes to replace. this same oring resides on the passengers side rear of the engine two. just remove the two bolts holding that little cap in place and twist it out. i use a screw driver to pry the seals out, but you gotta be careful. thing is, if you tuck it under the front of the seal, but just behind it, the outer sealing surface is protecing the inner metal from scratching, so if you're careful you cant' really scratch it once you get used to it and see it that way. Warning post hyjack, while were on this subject what is the deal with the drivers side cam seal rear, its a circular black plug looking thing with no bolts or fasteners, I have a leak there thats fairly serious. While at the jyard I tried removing one to learn it would not come off!..........G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 bumpity bump bump, any motor builders know what I'm talking bout:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 You're not making sense. Atleast I don't know what you're talking about. How about a pic from somewhere showing what you're talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 what is the deal with the drivers side cam seal rear, its a circular black plug looking thing with no bolts or fasteners, I have a leak there thats fairly serious. While at the jyard I tried removing one to learn it would not come off! ..........G, Sorry about that other post didn't know it would be on page 2. So on the drivers side head on the back side there is a black plug where the cam is/ends, there must be a seal there but how do you change/get to it, See above info. Again sorry for the confusion, no photos at this time.........G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 I now know what you mean. But have never seen one leak - that's why I was confused. I thought perhaps you were talking about the back of the passenger side cam and those 2 bolts are pretty abvious. And I've never had to have 2.2 heads done so I've never needed to reseal the part youi're talking about. Sorry I can't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbianchi Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 copied this from legacycentral bbs, hope it can help someone......G after finishing my rebuild months ago i found it to have some play and caused leaking there too. like you, i went to local junkyard to find a replacement. all the engines i found did NOT have any play. so i took the valve off, cam and gotta extension which i covered with a towel to pervert damage to the plug. i stuck it in through the vavle cover opening and just taped it out slowly. its been 6 months and still no leaks i would recommend getting a new one to be on the safe side tho. no sealant is applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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