SoobieDoo Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 fingerpaint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruguru Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 looks nice get some engine enamel clear coat or they will corode reall bad after a wile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Well I got some more work done. Finally got the shifting all worked out So I will post some pics. What I started out doing was trying to extend everything. I cut the tubing in half and then tapped it out. It failed misseriably. I could not even shift it with the jam nuts locked down to max. So I scrapped that idea and started over again. This time with the suggestion of Monstaru and the advice of Baccaruda and looking at his car for a referance. I figured this time I would just brin the shifting down tot he trans and keep it all "stock" down there. I did some testing and R&D and this is what I came up with. I dropped the shift bracket 4inches and offset it a bit so that the stabilzer would reach the mount. Plus I notched the top part so it would clear the e-brake cable on the left side. Next I went after the 4x4 selector. At First I thought well if the shifter went down four inches then bring the selector up 4in. But when I did that the shifter was jammed against the bracketry in second and fourth and had no reverse. So I brough it down 2in and that seemed to be the sweet spot but it was hitting the tunnel and hitting the 4low switch. But I knew I was on the right path. So Went back to the junk yard and found a curved slector out of and 87 wagon, it was even worse. So I went back to the bannanna shifter. I cut off the switch mount (if you dont know your in 4 low you have a problem ) and will remount it else where. Then I clearance the tunnel to fit the slector bar and bolted it all back up. It worked much better and I had all gears and reverse. I need to bend up the slector just a wee bit and to the left at 90 to get it out of the way the tray. Plus I think I will straighten the shifter a bit as well. But for right now it all works well. I plan on bracing the bracketry in some way under the car as well because there is just a little bit to much flex when shifting or slecting. For clearance issues (because low and 2nd are really colse to another) I am just going to buy some narrow after market razoo shifter knobs. The E-brake cable going the clearanced corner. The 4in bracket for the shift assmebly. shift assembly with 2in 4x4 selector bracket. clearanced shift area. Installed 4low and 2nd gear more later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Lookin good man, when I did the shifters in my wagon, I had to re-make the bar that connects the shifter bracket to the trans, like an s-shape, and I had to make some funky bends in the other linkages to make stuff clear, but it all worked... On Robbie's car I made the shifter bracket bolt to the trans tunnel instead of the trans, and that made enough clearance to make straight extensions... That all kept the shifters at the stock location in the tunnel, changed the shifting feel but it works great. I hope your setup works as good or better! -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Yah man, I would have loved to keep everything in its stock location and keep the integrity of the interior but it just seemed like it would not work. Maybe in the future I can come up with something that will bring everything back into the cabin, but for right now I want to get the thing on the road. And I had to move forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Ok now for the rest of the post. I had to run earlier so I was not able to finish it. All of my parts came in the other day. The're all GMB or NSK along with alot of suby parts. The tensioner is suby oem as well. The crank seal I already installed when I redid the oil pump so you can't see that in the pic. I had to buy all the rubber seals for the front and rear timing covers as well beacuse they were so swollen with oil that they were just toast. I also had to replace all the plastic as well for the same reason but I had extras of that laying around. When I was at pull and save the other day getting some more parts for the project I saw these rims on a 90 Trooper and thought they would make a good set. But there was only three and so I hunted around and found the fourth in a car a few rows over. I sized it up against a wagon that was there and nocked out two of the studs and it bolted right up. I measured the offset and it was ubber close to the suby ones. So I bought them for 12 bucks a piece. Not a bad score if you ask me. When I go back to shop I will pull off the 30 x 9.5 x 15's and throw them in the parts washer and then paint them. I'm a thinkin flat black (the car will eventually wind up OD green and or camo, going for a military look ) But we will see. I had to hold them up against the car with a bungy cord so the placement may be off a little because of tire roll and lean out but you get the jist. Front rear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Those rims will look excellent on that wagon! Here's a tip for doing the rear fender clearancing, dont cut anything! Just beat it with a sledge to start with, then go in with like a 12 oz ball-peen hammer to finish it, that way you wont cut into the double walled section, instead you just roll the eadge into itself on the inside of the fender arch. I learned the hard way when I cut the rear fenders on the Beast, but I tried out the hammer method on a different rig, and I got the same amount of clearance, but it looks cleaner and I didnt have to cut anything at all:banana: Also, if you want, some time when you get it finished and you still want the shifter back to stock, we can work on that, maybe bring it to me or I can work on it next time im in Spokane Wouldnt take long. What size tires are on those wheels right now? -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 Also, if you want, some time when you get it finished and you still want the shifter back to stock, we can work on that, maybe bring it to me or I can work on it next time im in Spokane Wouldnt take long. What size tires are on those wheels right now? -Bill Thanks Bill. Maybe I will take you up on that offer. The tires that are on it now are 30x9.5x15 but they are el' toasty. I have some 225x75x15 that in a little better shape that I will probably run with until I can afford to get new ones before winter hits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Ok well I finally got the engine clean enough to start puting it all back together. The exhaust valves and ports were uber coked up so I soaked them with acid and power hosed them as well. They're a lot better and mostly free of carbon. Plus I figure I will run a couple cans of sea foam through it on initial start up. I did the same for the intakes but they weren't as bad. First I started with the oil pan. Took it off and put it in the parts washer. Wire wheeled all the bolts and got them all ready as well. Then replaced the pick up tube o-ring and ultra-grey'ed the pan and put on the new flat o-ring that goes between the block and the pan. Next I went after the oil pump and water pump. When I pulled off the oil pump two of the screws were some what un-threaded. So took it all apart cleaned everything and checked for clearances. Everything was ok so I put it back together wire wheeled the bolts, ultra-grey'ed the sealing surface, put on the block o-ring, and installed the new crank seal. I might add that I have never seen as hard and or cracked seals (all of them) on any suby until this one. I am sure they have never been replaced and have gotten super hot in the past. After the oil pump I did the water pump, pretty much same process but used the a suby metal gasket (instead of that cheezy paper one they give you with the GMB pump) aircraft gasket sealer on the gasket and liquid pvc silicone on the bolt threads. Then came the cam seals, install the back t-cover plastic with the new rubber seals. and put on the cam gears. Next I installed the new rollers, idlers, tensioner and t-belt. Then replaced ALL the rubber seals on the rest of the t-belt covers and installed them. OK so next came putting on the brackets for the PS pump and alternator. Of course those went in the parts washer too. If it could be put in the parts washer, or solvent tank or wire wheeled, or cleaned in any way shape or form it got done (TO ANYTHING !!!!) This engine was one big grease pile when I got a hold of it and my anal/meticulous/professional mechanic nature would not allow for it to go in the car that way, even if I am going to get it all muddy, I still plan on keeping it clean as possible. And the best way to do that s start out clean. Sorry for the digression, now back to the post. OK I installed the PS pump and bracket. But I did not like the huge steal alt/ac bracket so I pulled the spare one off of my blown 96 EJ22 motor and bolted it on. It fit perfectly and is so much lighter and nicer looking. Plus I like the design better. I am not going to use the ac any way and will end up making a custom bracket for the additional alternator so I figured why not. However one of the two problems I ran into was that the back corner of the bracket hit the intake where the bolt hole for one of the throttle cable mounts go to. So I ground away enough on each piece to make it fit, once it was all bolted down. Second was the alternator. The bushing/shim on the inside was giving me clearance problems so I ground it flat. So now I could at least get it into position. But next was the tab on the tensioner side of the alternator was to big to allow for a full fulcrum swing in the mount, so I ground that off a bit as well until I had a full swing. Once I had that all worked out I took off the pump and alt so I could then proceed with the intake intstall. So the inside of the intake was all cruddy as well and there was a lot of carbon around the injector areas...out with the brake clean, rags and a blow gun I went. The vacuum lines were all hard and cracked so replaced those as well. After installing the intake I then prceeded to connect everything. All the electrical connectors got di-electric grease applied before being connected and the various hoses got lubed as well. The PCV/Separator plate tube assembly was completely cracked and ruined so I used the one off the 96 as well. It actually fits better, and the way the piping is run has a cleaner look; so that made me happy Once everything was all hooked up I took the motor off the engine stand and replaced the rear main. Then pulled off the seperator plate and cleaned it all up and re-seal/re-torqued it down. Its getting closer to having phase one done (phase one, being a driving car). Next week the flywheel goes to the machine shop. And don't worry guys the Fram filter won't be on it when I install it. A nice new suby one will be put on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STI_Wolf Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Cant wait to see it done! Are you going to try to get it to EC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 I don't think I am going to make it to EC in the "stomperu" but I might just show up for it. I can drive my 96 lego over there. I am not sure one way or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Looking good! I used two separate bolts+nuts instead of the single long pivot bolt for the alternator.. You may not be able to remove the long pivot bolt without pulling the radiator, due to the engine sitting lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 Hey thats a good thought. I might just have to do that. Don't want to have to yank the engine just to remove the alternator. Then it would be like a friken Fierro or porche, or, or , or, any other piece of crap like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 so it takes 6" of lift to clear 225's on an EA82 wagon?I fit 235's to my EA81 wagon with only a two inch lift and bashing the rear fenders out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Everybody has their own preferred way of doing things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmiller Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Looking good, can't wait to start my EJ swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted August 15, 2009 Author Share Posted August 15, 2009 so it takes 6" of lift to clear 225's on an EA82 wagon?I fit 235's to my EA81 wagon with only a two inch lift and bashing the rear fenders out... It wasn't a matter of fitting big tires in the wagon. It was a matter of building a trail rig. It just so happen to end up being a wagon. I knew what I wanted and did not really care (well I kind of did) what kind of suby I ended up building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 the size is irrelevant.some people like things to be proportionate.i fit 235s on my brat when it was at 4".and i hated the way it looked.those same tires on lilly look hawt.....................and she's at 6". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 also, there's an extremely important number being left out. the sidewall height. 235/35r15s would probably fit wonderfully on a stock height car, and 225/80r15s would be a tight fit on 4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 also, there's an extremely important number being left out. the sidewall height. 235/35r15s would probably fit wonderfully on a stock height car, and 225/80r15s would be a tight fit on 4". i would hope that when we are talking about this that we are all not totally stupid there chux.i mean really, when was the last time you saw some 235/35 15s?really......... my point was that assumption is the mother of all ************-ups,and until you have tried to fit any tire to your car, you have no idea what is going to happen.if uberoo would pay attention and res4earch more he would realize that what he said is ludicrous.but i have never known him to research first before either asking a question,or making a statement.cheers, brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Nice, look forward to see'n it finished. Got Rear disks on? Keep plugin, S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) Well I finally got an afternoon free today, so I took advantage of it. I put the rear discs on (thanks Steve W) ran new brakes lines (man those were spendy) because I did not like the way the hard lines came out, plus they rubbed the tires and or would not stay in a position to where catastrophic failure was sure to happen. Then I clearanced the rear fender wells a bit, and pulled the front fenders off, going to cut em' plus I need them off for the new wireing harness, then I pulled the front bumper in preperation for a beefy steel one to be built. She's almost drivable gettin' er cleaned up backing plate install, and all lubed up as well here come the rotors next the caliper asemblies now the brake lines I ran them inside of a 700x23 inner tube so they have a little more rub protection. And then through the "orginal" routing. I may tinker with this a bit more to see if I can't come up with something better. Gettin' nekid' Edited September 1, 2009 by Mugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 hey, wanna build a bumper this weekend?:)just curious.........cheers, brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Hell Ya, your on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 (edited) So mostaru came over today and helped me (did most of the work ) weld up my front bumper. I think in came out real nice. All that is left is to cap the ends and paint it. Then start with the rear one....... P.S. Monstaru I figured out what was wrong with "my" welder....the polarity was backwards. Works great now. You'll have to forgive the spots in some of the photos. The lens was dirty...it is after all inside a shop enviroment. Ruffed in and tacked Then we weld Mounted up MMMMMMMMMMMM Puuuuuuuuuuurrrrrrrrrrrrrtttttttttttttyyyyyyyyy Grill/radiator guard. I made it follow the angle of the head lights/hood seem. I plan on runing mesh when its comleted Ruffed in fender line, these actually came out nice and level by the time we were done(as you can see in this picture it is just tacked at the moment). Still need to cut it along the wheel well line Edited October 7, 2009 by Mugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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