TheLoyale Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) So I've been wanting to clean my IAC just cause I dunno how dirty it might be. But how do I remove it? The Powersteering fluid reservoir is in the way of the 4 screws that hold it to the Throttle body. I really don't feel like removing the PS reservoir to get at the screws (Seems like over kill for such a small job) Is there a way around this? btw, do I need to remove the whole IAC assembly from the TB to clean it? And what lies behind that round tube part where the Fuel Injector wire leads to? I'm trying to figure out this weird sort of bogg I have once in a while. I'm gonna try to explain it real quick. Ok: Lets say the first time you start it up (First time that day) it'll run a little rough and sometimes you'll feel little bump/hop like its lean. but it only does that once a day (Sometimes less) Now, Lets say your leaving a parking lot, you make your way to the road and you need to get out their, so you feed about 1/4 to 1/2 peddel, the engine wants to go but then it'll like bogg somewhat and it'll give little boosts of power for a few seconds (While keeping the peddle about 1/2) then it feels like something opens up and gos. Also, sometimes at a stop light or rolling stop. you'll want to feed it, most time the RPMs come up juts fine, but sometimes its sluggish/bogg at about 1500/2000rpm, but then I can hit 4000 with ease. I was thinking Injector, but I would think it would have a hard time at higher RPMs, it upshifts just fine, no bogging feel. and I looked at the Injector tip (Looks fine, no crud) and its not the MAF, I just recleaned it a few days ago. and I ran Seafoam last summer thru the entire air system. So all I can think is the IAC being the problem, the plugs are NGK BPR7ES, Wires are NGKs (New form 2007) cap/rotor are from AutoZone (2006) So I dunno, it just seems to happen on takeoff, I can easly go from 55 to 65mph in a few seconds and thats at about 3500-4000rpm. Any ideas? -Tom PS: And yes it has power while havnig a load on it (Going up hills) Edited June 30, 2009 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Tom Its funny but im having the same frickin problem you are. Theyve told me to check the IAC and yes i believe you can remove it without the resevour but its a pain in the butt. Im going to be doing this at some point as well. You might as well pull the resevour off and replace the o-ring so you prevent leaking in the future. Then clean your iac and reinstall. What are you suspost to clean the thing with. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Tom Its funny but im having the same frickin problem you are. Theyve told me to check the IAC and yes i believe you can remove it without the resevour but its a pain in the butt. Im going to be doing this at some point as well. You might as well pull the resevour off and replace the o-ring so you prevent leaking in the future. Then clean your iac and reinstall. What are you suspost to clean the thing with. Ben Haha thats funny, well at least I'm not alone :-p You can clean it with carb cleaner or some Electical connetion cleaner "CCR" -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 You will have to remove the whole thing. You will also need the new gasket and o-rings if you plan on disassembling it. I dont remember having any problems taking one off but if you have to; use a phillips bit in a 1/4" socket with a 1/4" ratchet. Nice and compact with a nice angle. I would check for vacuum leaks first and inspect the PCV & EGR system. It sounds more like a TPS issue than anyhting, but start simple. Floating around on here is a copy of the '89 FSM http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.zip Love this pdf as it is one of the few freinds you will find in the subaru repair battle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 You throwin a code tom, or idleing high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 Ok, so I would need a new o-ring and gasket. My PCV is new from Subaru (Last fall) theres no vac leaks that I can hear/see. My vac lines are new and so is that tube from the IAC to the main air intake. How would I check the EGR? wouldn't the can NOT pass emissions if there was an issure like that? its been running like this since I boguht it (Well I've improved the running alot) the EGR kicks in at 1100rpm right? Ben, no it idels fine. when its warm and in gear the Tac shakes a little between 500-700. and in Nutral/park it idels about 800-1000. and theres no codes. -Tom I'm not worried about it passing emissions this year (I know it will) but its kinda annoying thats all lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Mine idles high (after midwest Meet). But now when its cold it falls on its face. I need to jack up the rpms to about 2000 or more to get the thing going. Other wise it burps and kicks and has no power. Now after 5 minutes this goes away but its annoying as hell. I almost got nailed in a intersection because it did that. It would be a good time to flush your powersteering system tom, since youll have the resevour off. I might do mine this weekend. Is the o-ring on the resevour or the one for the IAC your talking about. And why did you get a subaru PCV valve. Thats one of the few parts i thought you could get away with not buying from the stealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 And why did you get a subaru PCV valve. Thats one of the few parts i thought you could get away with not buying from the stealership. So many of the aftermarket components suck, theres just some things you have to get from subaru. Tom: If you have a DVOM there is no reason not to check your TPS, there is a procedure in the manual I left you the link for. There are also procedures to check many other components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 A simple right angle screwdriver will remove it. As are included in most sets these days. The IAC is likely not your problem though. Hessitation like that can be a lot of things with an automatic. Last time I dealt with one it was a stretched timing belt. Run a d-check and see if you pull any codes. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 30, 2009 Author Share Posted June 30, 2009 So many of the aftermarket components suck, theres just some things you have to get from subaru. Tom: If you have a DVOM there is no reason not to check your TPS, there is a procedure in the manual I left you the link for. There are also procedures to check many other components. Ok, I have the '89 FSM on PDF disc. thank you. btw what does TPS and DVOM stand for? I try to get Genuine Subaru parts more of the time (Like Alt, starter, PCV, Mid pipe, Hose(s) "you have to, some are molded a way" like the IAC hose. Ben, at least mine doesn't die down like yours does.. man that would suck! Ok I'll check out the FSM and see what I can do. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Hmm, a right angle screwdriver huh.. I'll take a look for one Its not a T-belt, I just changed them last July alot with Cam seals and oil pump. How would a do a D-check? Wouldn't I needa reader? or is this something diffrent? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 You can easily remove those screws that you can't get to with a screwdriver by grabbing them with a pair of vice grips or pliers. I have a pair of needle-nose vice grips that are perfect for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 This should help you with running the D-check. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Befor you go and buy a new screw driver or make a mess with pliers, try putting a phillips bit in a socket and 1/4 drive ratchet and see if you can get it in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 This should help you with running the D-check.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Befor you go and buy a new screw driver or make a mess with pliers, try putting a phillips bit in a socket and 1/4 drive ratchet and see if you can get it in there. Yea I'm not going down the plier road Lol (I'm not that desprete to remove it) I'll see if I can get a ratchet with philips head socket in there. Thanks for the link! -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Yea I'm not going down the plier road Lol (I'm not that desprete to remove it) I'll see if I can get a ratchet with philips head socket in there. Thanks for the link! -Tom If you have a ratcheting wrench of the 1/4" variety you could use that with a philips tip, or a 1/4" regular wrench with a bar magnet or piece of tape on the back to keep the bit from coming out. It makes a killer lo-pro screwdriver. Or you could just buy a swivel tip screwdriver. I bougt a bit driver with like 20 bits with it for 7 bucks at CSK/O'reilly's that has a swivel head. Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 If you have a ratcheting wrench of the 1/4" variety you could use that witha philips tip, or a 1/4" regular wrench with a bar magnet or piece of tape on the back to keep the bit from coming out. It makes a killer lo-pro screwdriver. Or you could just buy a swivel tip screwdriver. I bougt a bit driver with like 20 bits with it for 7 bucks at CSK/O'reilly's that has a swivel head. Twitch Yea I have all sorts of tools (My dad has way more though Lol) Guess it comes from growing up fixing stuff (Like how I'm growing up) I'm not to worried bout doing this, this weekend. This weekend is for the Lift! Yay! I'm just gathering info and ideas BTW, what does the EGR do? Something to do with exspelling gases or something for emissions? Anyone? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 PS: Those ratching wrenches are a life save! I have a SAE set from Stanley (Love them) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Yea I have all sorts of tools (My dad has way more though Lol) Guess it comes from growing up fixing stuff (Like how I'm growing up) I'm not to worried bout doing this, this weekend. This weekend is for the Lift! Yay! I'm just gathering info and ideas Well, now you have more ideas! BTW, what does the EGR do? Something to do with exspelling gases or something for emissions? Anyone? -Tom The EGR valve is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Basically as I understand it, it is designed to blow unburnt fuel back into the intake so it can burn properly. It also acts as a hot air hose to keep the carburetor from freezing up. But that's only my flawed knowledge, you may want to hear from somebody more experienced. Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Well, now you have more ideas! The EGR valve is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Basically as I understand it, it is designed to blow unburnt fuel back into the intake so it can burn properly. It also acts as a hot air hose to keep the carburetor from freezing up. But that's only my flawed knowledge, you may want to hear from somebody more experienced. Twitch Ideas are good Oh thats what I remember, I read something a few years back about EGRs, yea thats what it does. My memory was fuzzy like a baby duck. Just not sure about the second part, oh well I don't have a carb anyway :-p -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihscout54 Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) The EGR valve is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.Basically as I understand it, it is designed to blow unburnt fuel back into the intake so it can burn properly. It also acts as a hot air hose to keep the carburetor from freezing up. But that's only my flawed knowledge, you may want to hear from somebody more experienced. Very breif EGR description.... Its purpose: Cool combustion temps to reduce NOX emissions. How it works: Under certain throttle conditions it pulls/redirects a small ammount of exhaust into the intake. If everything is working right exhuast gasses (mostly carbon dioxide) have already been burnt and dont burn again. These gasses displace a portion of the useable charge creating less fire and less heat without effecting a/f ratios. The combution chamber still fills up but with a little smaller amount of air and fuel and a bit of worthless gasses. The EGR opens at mid throttle/cruise rpms, under mid to light acceleration. It is out of the loop at idle and should be out at wot. btw what does TPS and DVOM stand for? TPS = Throttle positioning Sensor DVOM= Digi Volt Ohm Meter Edited July 1, 2009 by ihscout54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Scout, Thank you, I understand now! I must have been tired not to remember what TPS stood for lol. Thanks again! -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azsubaru Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 This should help you with running the D-check.http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Befor you go and buy a new screw driver or make a mess with pliers, try putting a phillips bit in a socket and 1/4 drive ratchet and see if you can get it in there. You guys are such wimps! Pliers/vicegrips don't have to make a mess. The phillips in a socket would probably work good, but if the screws are tight, it can be hard to get enough pressure on a right angle screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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