idosubaru Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (raises hand)..oh...oh...my turn, my turn! I couldn't find the threads i've read before about this. 1988 XT6 AWD manual. Almost zero rust, but the rear axle is seized onto the hub side stub. Generously drenced in PB Blaster . i wailed on it. i removed the caliper and bracket so i could get a more dead on hit with an enormously heavy digging bar. seems like penetrant won't work here, how's it really going to get where it needs to go? i pried the dust cover up and all. i'm trashing the axle so i don't care what happens to it. what are my options? reusing that joint by disassembling doesn't count, i don't do CV axle rebuilding...i think:-\ am i destroying my bearings by throwing a huge-o-normous digging bar at it olympic competition style? any best on how long that bearing lasts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 I remember reading those threads. Seems the consensis of the Board was, lots of penetrant, lots of heat, lots of wailing on it with BFH of choice. Remember someone saying that they used RTV or simular to plug one of the roll pin holes, spun axle to get open side up, then filled the hole with penetrant and let it soak in. Don't recall outcome of it though. I get to do this myself soon. The '85 BRAT has bad wheelbearing on one side, bad axle on other. YEA!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 i've heard nothing but horror stories so far. the XT guys are giving me some horrible feedback on their own dealings. i don't think it's coming out today. i'll probably leave mine for another day, i want to drive this car for now. i'll pound on it a bit more since it sat overnight and see what happens, but i doubt it's going anywhere. i was hoping there was some simple method even if it meant destroying the axle, i don't care about the axle at all...i actually want to destroy it now!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Pound the stub out of the bearings and chuck it in a vice. Then you can get real heat on it. Get it cherry red with a nice big rosebud and it will fall off. You need to apply heat FAST so only the cup expands and not the stub-shaft with it. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 What GD said. take the axle off the diff side (you probably already did this), take the hub off, and pound on the end of the stub. it'll come out just like a front axle. then you can get it on a bench and separate it however you need to. I don't have the equipment to get it hot fast, so I usually get the whole thing real hot, and then use a damp rag to cool the stub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 do i just need to remove the 36mm "axle" (not really axle) nut and that's it for the spindle to come out? i'm not quite picturing it - except just remove the large nut (36mm), then push the spindle through the hub? do i need to mess with that pin socket? i have the subaru tool for it if i do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 No the ring nut holds in the bearing. Just pound out the stub shaft like you would any EA front axle. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) GD beat me to it. But I had you doing things you didn't need to apparently. Hence the edit... Edited July 1, 2009 by TomRhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 i'm going to remove the large 36mm castle nut with a pin (on the outside of the hub), then pound the stubby shaft out. hope that's all i need to do, just remove one nut and that shaft comes out? i'm a bit leary as i've never taken apart hubs/bearings before, just want to make sure i don't ruin the bearings. if that axle doesn't come off, the stubby shaft will? it won't be frozen in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 You will also be taking off the brake components (whatever that may be). The stub will come out. It is only an interferance fit with the inner bearing race. There is plenty of grease in there so it's unlikely to be frozen. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiekid Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 If your trashing the axle, have you tried an air hammer? I use a long chisel bit to clear the diff and they always come off. Sometimes a little oxy/acetylene or mapp gas is involved but you dont have to remove anything from the car.... worth a try in my opinion if you have access to one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 actually i *think* i have an air hammer. but i have no idea what they are nor how to use them :lol: i may try pounding the stub shaft out, i'm not putting much time in it, i'll pay someone $50 to do it at this point, sounds like it's just going to be annoying working it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I had to cut the ones off my EA81, I used a thin cut disk down the side, hammered a chisel into the gap, and it popped off with minimum additional "convincing". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 2, 2009 Author Share Posted July 2, 2009 I had to cut the ones off my EA81, I used a thin cut disk down the side, hammered a chisel into the gap, and it popped off with minimum additional "convincing".hmmmm...i might be able to tolerate that. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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