TheLoyale Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 How can I remove the front struts on the EA82? I have the car jacked up and removed the nuts holding the strut screws. But the CV/Axle seems to be holding the whole assembly so I can't move the strut down enough to get it out of the wheel well so I can put the spacer block in for the 2" lift.. How can I do this? Do I need to sring compresser? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 How can I remove the front struts on the EA82? I have the car jacked up and removed the nuts holding the strut screws. But the CV/Axle seems to be holding the whole assembly so I can't move the strut down enough to get it out of the wheel well so I can put the spacer block in for the 2" lift.. How can I do this? Do I need to spring compressor? -Tom You will have to remove your sway bar links if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 also, I suspect you'll have to take the whole strut out (separate it from the knuckle) in order to get the block up there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 also, I suspect you'll have to take the whole strut out (separate it from the knuckle) in order to get the block up there. I was able to get a 2" block in without removing the entire strut, but things are different between vehicles:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 4, 2009 Author Share Posted July 4, 2009 Hmmm, Yes I did remove that on bracket/bolt holding the sway bar on that side. it did give me a little more room, but still not enough. I bought a spring compresser, and it is compressing the spring, but the strut it self isn't compressing (The spring is being pulled out from the top of the strut. I was soooo excited bought doing this, this weekend. But I don't think I will be able to now. I really don't want to touch the two bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the kuckel. I'm thinking if I remove the axle from the tranny that should give me enough room? Is this a bad idea? Is all I have to do is pound out that pin? I would hate to do this though. I think I'm not gonna be able to do this this weekend -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Just draw a line with a marker through that top bolt ( at the bottom of the strut..make sure the mark is on the strut too) that is your alignment mark. I think you have to remove those bolts to get enough room there.. it will allow the strut to pull away. Its not so bad getting the bolts to realign...big pry bar helps. Thats the only way I could get my swap on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 OK, so I a now in the prosess of taking off the Hub/rotor so I can remove the axle so the I can drop down the control arm/kuckle assembly to remove the sturt enough to install the 2" lift block. So how do I remove the hub with the wheels lugs on it? I took off the 4 bolts in front that hold the rotor to the hub, I also removed that rear bracket that I gues is the sheild for the rotor. I can't get the hub to come off. I removed the castle nut and the washer for that, but now behind that there is another washer looking thing with a dash or line in it (Looks like those retainers for bicicle bearings. Anyhoo, does that oull out with the hub or do I need to unscrew it? Thats the only problem I'm having now. Theres no going back at this time (I went this far, I'm going to install the lift) I should have bought new rotors lol since I'm taking them off. Should I worrie about greaseing the front bearings? -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Why are you taking the hub apart? Just take the strut off the knuckle. It's about 10,000 times simpler than what you are trying to do, and will save you a lot of headaches in the process. My favorite method is to hit the bolts with a little spray paint to mark their location. When you put it back together, set it so the paint lines touch, and you're set. Works on struts, hoods, doors, tailgates.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 (edited) The reason I taking the hub out/apart is cause I need to pull the axle. the spline on the tranny were the axle go's into is too long to just pull the axle cup back and pop out. I can't pull the strut out of the kuckle far enough to get the bottom of the strut out of the kuckle. the top of the strut hits the strut tower, I'm trying to drop the contol arm/knuckle assembly as far as possable so I can get the strut out. and I can't compress the strut, I can only compress the spring (But the spring was being pulled down and out of the top of the strut) -Tom Edited July 5, 2009 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 (edited) Plus, once I do get that 2" spacer block in, how am I supposed to evenr think of putting the bottom of the strut back into the kuckle? I can't even get it all the wayout now, and then I'm gonna try to put it back when it mounts 2" lower? Lol impossable. Edited July 5, 2009 by TheLoyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 I would uhook the lower ball joint, and drop the whole thing down, but it shouldnt be that bad, is it a stock EA82 or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 Its not impossible...because others have done it. needs a second person to "step" on the lower control arm...thier wieght will get it low enough to at least line up one hole. Then a trusty pry bar to line up the other. ( but one of the bolts in but loose until the second one is in. Getting the hub off you may be asking for more trouble...those ball joints dont always like to cooperate. BTW..you did remove the tie rod from the hub?? it will allow the hub to turn and swing a little Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 5, 2009 Author Share Posted July 5, 2009 Scott, Yes it is a stock EA82. I didn't think about droping the ball joint. Maybe today I'l have a ew point of view on the subject. So if I do remove the balljoint, Will the control arm/kuckle drop down enough to get that spacer plate on top of the strut? Connie, I wasn't sure if I should just forse the control arm down or not (Didn't want to damage my CV) I didn't remove the Tie rod at all. but now that I think of is (Since both of you told me) I could pop off the balljoint with out messing up my alinment. Thank you guys!! Maybe I'll get the front doen today! -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 remove the tie rod end from the hub..it will allow it to swing and give you room to get the axle out...and its easier then the ball joint. I just did this to my Lego. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 5, 2009 Share Posted July 5, 2009 if you want to pull that 'washer with the line in it', insert a big screwdriver blade into the line and rap on it it's a cone that is probably rusted into the seat, a smart rap or two will spread it out and it will pop off, letting you slip the hub/rotor off you can leave the 4 bolts in the hub that hold the rotor on with the caliper and bracket out of the way, you can take the dust shield off if you want to I'd leave the lower strut bolts alone, the axle on the transmission and the center strut nut, under the cap, on I would disconnect the sway bar, three strut bearing plate washers on the strut tower, outer ball joint (steering rack) and pull the lower control arm bolt with the coil spring compressed the whole assembly should drop enough to get to the top of the pile, under the strut seat to work, if it doesn't, you may have to pull the spring out of the way when you do the other side, you may want to try to work around the hub/rotor and leave them alone, same with disconnecting the strut from the bearing plate, try to drop the bearing plate with the strut connected at the top by compressing the coil spring and the strut together, the axle will allow some movement without being disconnected from the gearbox if you can work around all that crap in the way, it only involves 6 fasteners, the sway bar bolt (1), the bearing plate nuts at the strut tower under the hood (3) the lower control arm bolt (1) and the nut and cotter key off of the outer ball joint (steering rack)... I didn't count the lug nuts I'd take them in this order; rack, sway bar, (compress the spring) bearing plate nuts, lower control arm bolt I just did something like this last week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Ok update: I did NOT take apart the hub, instead I installed everything that wasn't nessacery to have loose. What I am doing now is, I took of the lower controll arm (Off the frame) since I couldn't pop the BJ from the kuckle. I also took off the radius arm from the control arm, and I poped the tie-rod kuckle off the hub housing. So theres nothing holding the strut/kuckle except for the Drive shaft. SO what I am gonna do is pop out the pin that holds the DS to the tranny, then the entine drive shaft and strut/kuckle assembly will pull out and I will be able to install the 2" plate on top f the strut then mount that to the strut tower, then worrie about the rest. My and my dad have tried ever other way. I rented a spring compresser and that didn't do much, even after everything was removed off the kuckle/hub. I did manage to get the 2" plate up in th strut tower, but then how would I tighten the bolts that are on the strut top? There would be no way to do such. I think I'm ok now -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Txakura and Connie, thank you for your comments and ideas! I figured out what I'll have to do to do what I need. Well my dad thought of it Still doesn't hurt to ask you guys while I'm doing the work (Hehe) i'll get some pictures and such soon, I'm just happy all the bolts are coming off easy. the two radius arm bolts I had to heat up and use alot of seafoam but they moved. Everything I said in my last message is off except for the Drive shaft from the tranny. I will do that tomorow. thank you again and I'm very much obligde! -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 You are way overthinking this whole process dude. Lift the car into the air, undo the strut bolts. Support the vehicle with stands, place jack under the engine crossmember. Remove the bolts holding the crossmember to the frame, lower the engine crossmember 2 or 3" That should give you plenty of room to install your strut blocks. -OR- Remove the bolts holding the strut to the lower control arm (before ever unbolting the strut tops). With the strut top still bolted to the body, and the lower bolts undone from the steering knuckle/lower control arm.... use a prybar (or some bodywieght) and force the lower control arm down, this will remove the bottom of the strut from the steering knuckle.. Now unbolt the strut top and let the strut fall out. However, if you are installing a lift, you will still need to unbolt the engine crossmember to make room for the reinstallation. Unless you want to spend an entire weekend fighting with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Ok update: I did NOT take apart the hub, instead I installed everything that wasn't nessacery to have loose. What I am doing now is, I took of the lower controll arm (Off the frame) since I couldn't pop the BJ from the kuckle. I also took off the radius arm from the control arm, and I poped the tie-rod kuckle off the hub housing. So theres nothing holding the strut/kuckle except for the Drive shaft. SO what I am gonna do is pop out the pin that holds the DS to the tranny, then the entine drive shaft and strut/kuckle assembly will pull out and I will be able to install the 2" plate on top f the strut then mount that to the strut tower, then worrie about the rest. My and my dad have tried ever other way. I rented a spring compresser and that didn't do much, even after everything was removed off the kuckle/hub. I did manage to get the 2" plate up in th strut tower, but then how would I tighten the bolts that are on the strut top? There would be no way to do such. I think I'm ok now -Tom Wow, nevermind my previous post man. You just created like... a weeks worth of work there. You are already past the point of no return, the information I posted above is useless to you now. For future refference maybe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 I don't understand what was so hard, All I have ever done is just unbolt the top strut bolts and pryed down on the assembly and slipped in my blocks. Then bolted it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Thats what I wanted to do Bratman, but apparently thas not the case with this vehicle. If you only tae out the top strut bolts and lower the entire assembly the top of the strut only drops down like an 1" from the top of the strut tower (Bolting location). and even if you stand on it My dad is 213lbs, the axle, radius, and tie rod are only going to go so far. all these were maxed to extream. I couldn't even move the tie rod (it was that tight) the axle was hitting were the rear bolt for the contol arm gos. and the radius arm was pushed down as fsr as it gos. SO why is my car soooo diffrent then anyone elses? its really not that much work taking these things off, Its better then my other ideas lol. So today, the onlything holding the strut/kuckle/lower control arm is the drive shaft. all I need to do, is pop out the pin (Again) and pull the cup from the gearbox and the whole assembly will drop out. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Alright, I now have the plate and strut bolted and mounted back up along with the radius arm, and tie rod. Now the issue is the wheel/hub is turned "toe in" why? Cause the strut is now down 2" more then the stock location. So I had to turn the wheel a little to get the tie rod back in the kuckle assembly so I could put the castle nut back on the tie rod bolt/balljoint. Why is the tie rod not long enough? Now am I going to have to adjust the tie rod out so it'll be longer so this wheel won't be toe in? the tie rod would need to be adjusted to make it longer so the wheel will not be toe in. Now if I were to install the lift plte to the other front wheel, it'll be toe in aswell. Why was I not told the tie rod would need to be adjusted? I also need to bolt the rear of the control arm back in but am not able to cause its about 1/2" to far away from the mounting hole. And No, there is no more give to push the control arm into were it bolts. Why? I don't understand why I am having such issues. Seems like no one else has had these issues. first is was lack of drop down room. and most of the info I have been giving by the people on here has been wrong. You can NOT just unbolt the top strut screws and remove the sway bar bolt and stand on the hub to bring it down enough to install the lift plate. the Tie rod, Axle, Radius bar all do not have enough give to let that happen. So that is why I removed everything from the kuckle/hub assembly so the strut would drop down (And yes, it did drop down very nicly after I removed the Axle from the trans, radius arm, control arm from the frame, and tie rod from the kuckle/hub assembly) Here are some pictures on how "Toe in" the wheel now is. even if it would strighten out once you put the car on the ground, how safe is it to drive it like this? you hit a bump and the wheels would want to go toe in all the time. Not safe plus bad for the ball joints. I don't understand how no one else could have had these issues with their EA82s. I can't seem to get a strait answer from anyone on exactly what you'll run into. Everyone is like "Oh its easy, just unbolt the top strut bolts and maybe the sway bar and have and it'll drop down, then have someone stand on the kuckle/hub to get more space." This does not work on my vehicle. I am getting extremly fed up. Pretty soon this plate is coming off the car and the stuff is going in a box and back to WA to Scott. If I can't do something about this. Oh yea sure, I can probably adjust the tie rod out some to get the wheel straight, but how many threads am I going to have left on that shaft? I can't just have like 2 or 3 threads holding the end of the tie rod/balljoint. That isn't gonna take bumps and what not. I really don't need my wheel being pushed back and up when I doing 65mph. . . Yes I installed the passenger side lift plate the right way. I am very disapointed. -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 most of the info I have been giving by the people on here has been wrong. this attitude is why I stopped trying to help. you were told to remove the strut from the knuckle, and you ignored it. now you have more problems, and are blaming everyone else. the toe is because the control arm is not bolted to the crossmember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 The reason I told you that is because that is how I have done it on 4 different cars. I don't know why yours is not working that way. But don't get aggravated at everyone else. It isn't a big deal. You have to turn the wheel left and then push on the rearward side of the rotor and that should push the control arm back in, then slip the bolt through and you'll be all good!! Just keep your cool!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 6, 2009 Author Share Posted July 6, 2009 Geez, I am sorry. I was hot and having a bad day to begin with. I wasn't really blaming anyone, just stating that all the info I have been getting was not working on this car (Dunno why) As for pulling the strut from the knuckle, that would not have worked without taking off what I have. Because of the extrem lack of room/space for some reason I have. Now if I would have left the radius arm, tie-rod and axle connected to the Control arm and knuckle I would not be able to pull the strut all the way out of the knuckle, and even if I could manage that, It would be pretty unthinkable to put the strut back in the knuckle after the extra 2". For what its worth, I am sorry for the sundden outburst. most of you know me well enough, I am pretty easy going and have good commen sence. Only thing, I'm not sure of is, Bratman. you said the toe is from the control arm not being connected. So if I am able to pop it back in the way you said. how is that gonna change the toe? I am not talking about camber. from what I can tell the camber looks good, but the wheel is now turned towards the left and the other side is still straight. I will try this in a few minutes. It woul be really awesome is this does work! On the good side of things, the axle(s) arn't gonna rub on anything. so thats one less thing on my mind! Thanks, -Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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