bratman18 Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 It effects the toe because it is pushing out on the back of the assembly which makes the front point in. Also, to take the strut out of the knuckle. you would leave the top strut bolts bolted on and remove the lower strut bolts and apply downward pressure on the knuckle to remove from the strut. Then remove the top 3 bolts and pull strut down. Then bolt on the block and strut back onto the car, then angle the knuckle out, and push on the strut so it kinda "pops" into the knuckle. You will still have to "persuade" the strut the rest of the way into the knuckle. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Yep I know if I were to pop the strut out of the kuckle I would leave the top bolts in, but with this particular car, this would not work. I have no clue why? Ok, so I just tried turning the wheel full to the left. and it did move the lower control arm closer to the bushings and mounting spot, but still not enough... I just can't understand what changed besides having the strut/kuckle mounted 2" lower. It would be nice if i could use a small jack and put that on the hub where the lug bolts are and compress the strut so the axle at a more levle angle. but if I do that, then the strut starts to pull away from the car due to not having the control arm connected to the frame. Now when I did have the wheel turned left and I pushed rearwards on the rotor, it moved in just a fraction, its almost like the axle isn't letting me push the control arm into its place all the way. I was so close to having this side done, but now its all because of this control arm, after I get the control arm in place then I hope I'll be able to get the sway bar mounted back onto the control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 There is a chance that the axle pulled apart, but it should slide back together. Try using a little more force, maybe even a hammer to persuade that control arm in. Once you get that in, it should all go back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 There is a chance that the axle pulled apart, but it should slide back together. Try using a little more force, maybe even a hammer to persuade that control arm in. Once you get that in, it should all go back together. Ok, if the axle did pull apart. wouldn't one end not turn when one end is turning? Well I'll look at it, yea I have a 5lbs sledge I've been using from such. -Tom PS: yes I am more relaxed and have a clearer mind then before lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Ok, if the axle did pull apart. wouldn't one end not turn when one end is turning? Well I'll look at it, yea I have a 5lbs sledge I've been using from such. -Tom PS: yes I am more relaxed and have a clearer mind then before lol. Yeah if the axle had pulled apart than it prob wouldn't turn very easily. I'm guessing that the control arm is just at an "off" angle and needs maybe some hammering and/or some pry bar usage. Keep at it. I know all about "easy" projects that go harder than they are supposed to!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Yeah if the axle had pulled apart than it prob wouldn't turn very easily. I'm guessing that the control arm is just at an "off" angle and needs maybe some hammering and/or some pry bar usage. Keep at it. I know all about "easy" projects that go harder than they are supposed to!! Hmm, yea it turns pretty easy (Like it used to) alright, yea I'll try a pry bar and sledge. Thanks man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 IT IS PAINFULLY OBVIOUS THIS TASK IS WAY ABOVE YOUR HEAD I am not even going to waste my time trying to correct you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 IT IS PAINFULLY OBVIOUS THIS TASK IS WAY ABOVE YOUR HEAD I am not even going to waste my time trying to correct you. Give him a chance, he is after all, half your age and still learning:-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 No, you're right. I apologize. You do not want to make any adjustments to your tie rod ends. This will do nothing to help your caster/camber adjustments. This is solely steering alignment and if you start toying with it, you're paying a shop to fix it. If your lower control arms are still not installed, then your camber/caster/toe in/out makes no difference. Also... Front CV joints seperate by Hyper extending. This just pulls the shaft and bearings apart from the cup. If it does happen either end may or may not spin independently, it depends on how severe the seperation is. And last, but not least... If you are installing strut top blocks, but not lowering the engine crossmember as well, then you can expect to have a TON of caster/camber problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) Yea I was thinking touching the tierod ends would be a mistake. It just looked like they needed to be extended because I had to turn that hub/knuckle some to the left to hook up the tierod end bolt to the knuckle. OK so thats ut of the question. It has nothing to do with my age, its just that I havn't don't this before and my dad has never looked at lifts for a Subaru nor has ever had one lol. Well I though the only main reason for the crossmember blocks were incase the axles do rub, plus it would take some of the stress off the axles. I didn't think this would make a diffrence in the camber/caster. ok so heres a question, theres alot of people that put the 2" kit on with out using the crossmember blocks. What did they do? So how would I know if the axle/CVs did seperate? I would think the axle would be hard to turn or one half of the axle would not turn? I did have the axle extremly extended to get the amount of space I needed with this car for some reason. Thank you TSJ. -Tom Edited July 7, 2009 by TheLoyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 A thought: Ok since the control arm is being a pain, What if I put the front wheels back on and slowly lowerd the car onto the ground So some of the weight of the car would compress the strut and maybe then the lower control arm would line up to were its supposed to bolt in on the frame. Or would this not be the best idea? Maybe it would just pull out the strut/knuckle assembly and and be worse? -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Well since Im late to the party... And since I didnt read the whole thread because it got insanely long... From what I read you have the control arms off the engine crossmember and they wont go back in. Bolt the struts with 2" blocks attached back to the towers. Get everything on the hub all bolted together, and make sure your axles are back on the trans stubs and the roll pins are in. Then, with the car on jackstands, put a floor jack under the jack plate on the bottom of the engine crossmember. Undo the 2 14mm nuts on each side of the crossmember and lower it with the jack until you can attach the lower arms. Once you have a bolt in each arm, jack the engine back up and put the nuts back on and tighten them good and tight. You will have to loosen the steering shaft u joint for this, but thats 1 12mm bolt. You shouldnt have to undo anything else in the engine bay though. It will take all of 15 minutes if you do it right -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Well since Im late to the party... And since I didnt read the whole thread because it got insanely long... From what I read you have the control arms off the engine crossmember and they wont go back in. Bolt the struts with 2" blocks attached back to the towers. Get everything on the hub all bolted together, and make sure your axles are back on the trans stubs and the roll pins are in. Then, with the car on jackstands, put a floor jack under the jack plate on the bottom of the engine crossmember. Undo the 2 14mm nuts on each side of the crossmember and lower it with the jack until you can attach the lower arms. Once you have a bolt in each arm, jack the engine back up and put the nuts back on and tighten them good and tight. You will have to loosen the steering shaft u joint for this, but thats 1 12mm bolt. You shouldnt have to undo anything else in the engine bay though. It will take all of 15 minutes if you do it right -Bill Bill, just to clear it up for ya. I have everything put back on and together (I disided not to take apart the hub Lol) So the only thing I need to put on is the control arm(s) and the sway bar to the control arm. I think I will try this, It sounds like a good idea, and sounds easy enough. thanks for giving me an idea on how long it should take for that. Thanks again Bill. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 What if I put the front wheels back on and slowly lowerd the car onto the ground So some of the weight of the car would compress the strut and maybe then the lower control arm would line up to were its supposed to bolt in on the frame. !!!!NO!!!!! What will most likely happen, the strut will start to take the weight of the vehicle and pull it off the jack, as soon as the jack is away from the car, the strut & wheel will move away from the car. If you are lucky, it will not fall on you. But most definatly the CV joint will be ripped apart. This happend to me once when the bolt holding the lower ball joint dissapeared, and as soon as I hit a bump it came out of the knuckle... everything after that was all bad. If I am following this thread correctly, you now have your 2" lift blocks ontop of the struts... the struts are bolted in place. The brake & hub assembly is only being supported by the steering knuckle & CV Joint. And You are trying to re-install your lower control arms?? Bolt the struts with 2" blocks attached back to the towers. Get everything on the hub all bolted together, and make sure your axles are back on the trans stubs and the roll pins are in. Then, with the car on jackstands, put a floor jack under the jack plate on the bottom of the engine crossmember. Undo the 2 14mm nuts on each side of the crossmember and lower it with the jack until you can attach the lower arms. Once you have a bolt in each arm, jack the engine back up and put the nuts back on and tighten them good and tight. You will have to loosen the steering shaft u joint for this, but thats 1 12mm bolt. You shouldnt have to undo anything else in the engine bay though. It will take all of 15 minutes if you do it right Did these blocks not come with directions or installation instructions? P.S. How did you remove the knuckle side of the lower control arm?? Did you remove the balljoint from the knuckle? or did you remove it from the control arm? If you haven't already, goto Napa and get new balljoints. They are cheap, like $14 or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 TSJ, yea I was kinda figuring the strut would pull away once I get the weight on it. ok forget I said that. No, the kit didn't come with any. I just asked Scott a few questions. As for whats holding the Hub/Knuckle assembly, the only thing Not holding it is the rear part of the control arm. I didn't remove the control arms balljoint from the Hub, I just removed the 1 bolt holding the control arm to the crossmember. So all I need to do is get the control arm back in its place on the crossmember and I'll be good. I want to get this side done, so I can move on to the drivers side. the rear is going to be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheSubaruJunkie Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 AHhhhhh I see... The big problem here is you have your suspension fighting you. Don't loose your cool and take your time, you should be able to get it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Brian. thank you for the kind words! Yes I finaly got the control arm back into the crossember! I am sooo happy and can't wait to start on the driver side front tomorrow. Bill thank you soooooo much for giving me the idea of lowering the crossemeber, it worked perfect! the only thing I don't have connected to the control arm is the sway bar, cause I can't seem to get that close enough, but thats no bigger, I should be able to line it up once I get the other side done and drop the car on the ground. and if that doesn't work, well I'll figure out something. I was just worried when I couldn't get the control arm back in and my toe was off. I am stoked that lowering the crossmember gave me that extra little bit I needed, so now my toe is fine once again. Thank you all very much, I'll get some pictures of the side that I completed. and of course when its all done. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I would ditch the sway bar, I take it off all my rigs, once you get used to it its like you never took it off. If you do try to re-attach it, it will be a PITA cuz the holes wont want to line up due to the new angles on the control arms. Take it out and dont look back! -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Lol, but do you do speeds excess of 75mph? I mean the car does wonder very little (Prolly normal, since nothing was very precice when they made these vehicles, just like the EA81s) Anyhoo if its on the car, its going back on. I might be abl to work with it cause on the same bracket the bolts to the control arm (Where the rubbers are for the sway bar) I can loosen the 2nd screw and then I can move the mounting bracket on the sway bar around a bit. But its not a big concern atm.once I get the other side done I'll dink around with it. :-p -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 You will hardly notice if you remove the sway bar. I travel over 75 often with my lifted GL and notice no difference at all, it may even handle better!!! Plus it does help off road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Lol well maybe the bushings in ur sway bar were shot (Smerk) anyhoo, I am gonna connect it tomorrow, it was getting buggie out "Miscitos" (Spelling) good news! The front is now on the ground and all looks good! Alot high (It'll prolly settel some though) I notice that you can move the wheels "Toe in/out" alot easier without the sway bar attached (So I will attach it) oh and yes, the driver side went faster then the passenger (Hehe) I am gonna see if I have enough time to get the rear all done tomorrow. I'm tired of driving the '99 Blazer (My parents) used to be their DD, now we have a brand new '08 FJ. Had it since last fall. we had the Blazer since '02 I'm happy that it all worked out in the end! -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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