Fairtax4me Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Howdy all, Soob noob here looking at a 96 Legacy sedan that got traded in at the dealership I work for. I can get it for $1300 and I'm wondering if its worth that with the "issues" it has. 2.2, 5 speed, 155k, runs like a top. Check engine light on, code P0100 MAF circuit malfunction. Needs a clutch, also has a bit of a whine when in first gear. Seems like a pretty solid car, not much rust that I can see, but the whole bottom of the thing is covered in gravel dust. Small clunk in the steering which I think is the inner tie rod end since the rack bellow on the passenger side is ripped open. Valve cover gaskets are leaking, and it has a small exhaust leak. Gonna put it on the rack tomorrow or tuesday after work and get a good look underneath, but I think I've got it all pretty much covered here. Paint is still shiny, but far from beautiful, it needs to be detailed something bad. The main thing that concerns me is the transmission noise. I'm not familiar with Subaru transmissions so I have no idea if it's normal or what. I can only hear it in first gear, it may be there in all gears, I don't know. The exhaust leak makes is a bit difficult to hear everything well. Im also wondering if there any any common issues with these that need constant attention. Seems to me that Subarus are fairly reliable machines, and Im looking for something to use as a DD for a little while. I think this might fit the bill but I don't want to have to dump too much money into it to make it driveable. So what do you guys think? Suggestions on what to look for? Thanks alot, Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 Welcome aboard. Can't help you much on the details but it sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things. Maybe someone else can offer their opinion on the tranny noise. Frankly, the price sounds a little stiff for the car as you describe it. Go to Edmunds.com and use their TMV (True Market Value) calculator--shows less than $1000. 'Course KBB puts it at $2000+ so who ya gonna believe! The good is that you'd be getting a non-interference EJ22, probably the best engine Subaru ever put on the road. And it's relatively easy to work on. Good luck on your decision, Scott. Let us know how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the reply Olnick. Edmunds Nada and KBB hardly ever agree on market values. The price is what the company paid for it so it's not really negotiable unfortunately. If it were any cheaper I probably wouldn't hesitate to jump on it. I talked to one of our technicians who owns a 95 legacy wagon, he said the transmission noise sounds pretty normal. I'm still not sure, but I can get any transmission for $85 from a junkyard not far from me. So even if it throws in the towel a few months down the road, it won't be that expensive to fix it. I did get a better look at the oil leaks on this thing today. Either the pan, or something directly in front of it on the front of the block is leaking pretty good, as well as the passenger side valve cover. I didn't pull the timing cover so I have no idea what it looks like inside there. I guess the smart thing to do would be to pull the engine and just replace whatever I can find that needs it all at once. From what I've read this is a pretty stout engine, so I think I can feel comfortable dropping a couple hundred bucks in it to get it in decent shape. I actually couldn't find an exhaust leak. I crammed a rag in the tail pipe and it built up so much pressure it spat the thing out like a canon. But there is a heat shield loose on the drivers side manifold that is rattling like crazy. Other than that, it needs some bushings, but that's pretty much it. I'll have to think about it another couple days, but at this point it looks pretty promising. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 SOLD!!!! I would snap that up in an instant!!! Around here (PNW) those don't go any cheaper than $2k and that's the fixer uppers. I say buy it now, change the gear oil, look for glitter, and do a thorough scrubdown on that engine to see where the oil is coming from. Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Actually $1300 isn't a bad price. You obviously have a feeling for cars and mechanicals, so it just comes down to whether it's worth it to you. As a longtime driver of a '95 Legacy L, EJ22 with 5-speed manual I heartily agree with what you've read--they're very stout machines. Very sweet engines and quite enjoyable to work on. Don't worry about the oil leaks (unless it's pouring out!) It's a "Subaru thing!" But valve cover gaskets are easy and you can do a front end re-seal, new timing belt, etc. without even pulling the engine. Everything you'd want to know as far as specific details and helpful tips is right here on the USMB--the search function opens up a goldmine of collective knowledge. Like for rattling heat shields! Give the car a thorough once-over. If it seems solid I'm sure it would make an excellent dd for you. Good luck with your decision. And do let us know how it turns out. Aloha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 +1 ^ I can say owning a 96 Legacy EJ22 5 spd...that the only major problem I had was the trans...granted it had almost 190,000 miles on it...first the VC started binding than it started popping out of fourth than finally i got a whining noise in 1st gear.. i have 203,000 on it now and it still runs pretty well..considering what is wrong I would prob grab it...look at it this way..if you can find one of those suckers in the JY for parts..youll save yourself some coin also... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 (edited) +2 Buy the car. Unless you know the history, do the timing belt (yes, it's non-interference), which doesn't require pulling the engine, as stated by OLNICK...and when you're in there you'll likely find your oil leak...cam/crank seals. Do the waterpump too. The ebay kits for about $100 include most/all you'll need. Also, I've had 2 legacys w/leaking PS pumps that leaked down the front - SOA sells a rebuild kit pretty cheap, or so I've read - so check it out too. If you DO pull the engine, check the rear main..only touch it if it's leaking, otherwise leave it be. Replace the rear oil separator plate w/the updated metal one. If the MAF is bad, most all '90-98? Subies used the same one - the JECS/AUTOECS MAF....I've pulled half-dozen from a JY and they all worked fine, so don't buy a new one. p.s. Along w/oil leaks, the exhaust heat shields have a 'reputation' too. Edited July 7, 2009 by wtdash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna go ahead and get it. Looks like I'll be hanging around yet another forum in my spare time. What do I search for to find these kits on Ebay? Is it just the belt/tensioners or does it have all the seals and stuff too? More than likely I will just pull the engine, do ALL the seals, clutch, timing belt, water pump (which I think is leaking) all in one shot. Then I can make it nice and pretty before I put it back in. The heatsheild I could care less about. If it gets really annoying, we've got a welder at the shop. Im not realy sure if the MAF is bad or what. It has a code for it, but it doesn't act like any car I've ever driven with a bad MAF. It runs just fine, but occasionally it will just flat out die. It starts right back up like nothing happened. Even when driving down the road it will randomly just quit, like it lost spark. After a couple seconds of coasting it will come back to life and keep right on going. Maybe it needs an ignition coil or a CPS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna go ahead and get it. Looks like I'll be hanging around yet another forum in my spare time. What do I search for to find these kits on Ebay? Is it just the belt/tensioners or does it have all the seals and stuff too? More than likely I will just pull the engine, do ALL the seals, clutch, timing belt, water pump (which I think is leaking) all in one shot. Then I can make it nice and pretty before I put it back in. The heatsheild I could care less about. If it gets really annoying, we've got a welder at the shop. Im not realy sure if the MAF is bad or what. It has a code for it, but it doesn't act like any car I've ever driven with a bad MAF. It runs just fine, but occasionally it will just flat out die. It starts right back up like nothing happened. Even when driving down the road it will randomly just quit, like it lost spark. After a couple seconds of coasting it will come back to life and keep right on going. Maybe it needs an ignition coil or a CPS? Its also helpful that these engines are prob. one of the easiest to pull...As for ebay check out timing componant kits for your make and model year vehicle...Ive seen some kits come with H20 pump, t-belt, tensioner, and idlers....usually just run down to your local dealer and they should stock the cam and crank seals....Personally I would prob also reseal the oil pump and replace the o-ring while you have the thing apart...As mentioned utilize the search function here and it will divulge tons of info....good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtdash Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 What do I search for to find these kits on Ebay? Is it just the belt/tensioners or does it have all the seals and stuff too? Search on Legacy ej22 or 2.2 and you'll get lots of hits. A kit I recently bought inluded the belt, pulleys, cam seals, and water pump. But the tensioner (not the pulley tensioner) is separate and usually $$...not sure what the opinion is about how often to replace it. On my kit, the pulleys were different from OEM and the stock bolts didn't fit....too long. Im not realy sure if the MAF is bad or what. It has a code for it, but it doesn't act like any car I've ever driven with a bad MAF. It runs just fine, but occasionally it will just flat out die. It starts right back up like nothing happened. Even when driving down the road it will randomly just quit, like it lost spark. After a couple seconds of coasting it will come back to life and keep right on going. Maybe it needs an ignition coil or a CPS? Search on here...my diagnostic skills are poor, but others have surely covered it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna go ahead and get it. Looks like I'll be hanging around yet another forum in my spare time. Very good--I like your thinking! All your questions have been discussed at great length on USMB, as I said it's a goldmine here. Go to the search function up top (use the advanced search and limit it to New Generation.) People generally use the ebay kits for the idlers, which are very expensive when bought individually from dealerships. Stick with OEM for the waterpump, thermostat, gaskets and cam/crank seals. If you pull the engine don't touch the rear main seal unless it's obviously leaking. MAF--might try cleaning it (gently!) with MAF cleaner. Check/clean connectors. New plugs and wires (stick with OEM) might help the cutting out problem. Congrats, good luck and keep us up on your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 By the way, here's a link to a recent "ebay kit" discussion: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187&highlight=ebay+timing+belt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted July 7, 2009 Author Share Posted July 7, 2009 The Ebay kits sound great. Most of them are cheaper than the kit I looked at on rockauto too. Thanks again for the help guys! Time to start reading... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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