Would like some tips

[dasuchbe]

I have been lurking in the shadows for a while now and I am finally ready to proceed.

 

I have looked around and seen some things that I would like to do to my Puddle Jumper.

 

First thing is to breath life back into it. When I last had it kinda running, It would sit and idle just fine, rev up fine, but when put in gear after driving a SHORT distance (couple hundred feet) It dies and is a bear to restart but when it does the same again. That being said, let me explain. I purchased it in about 1991 from a mail man. Turned out the governor gear in the tranny kept shearing leaving me just first and second. Got another trans from a bone yard and solved it. But then I parked it. In the last 10 years it has probably driven less the 500 miles.

 

I pulled the stock carb ( yes I realize the Weber would probably be better but I am on a strict budget at the moment) So I have the carb and a rebuild kit.... then I got to notice all those small parts..... I am mechanically inclined but have never done this (changed the trans by myself) I have a Haynes manual, but is that enough? And I wonder, am I jumping the gun, maybe a weak fuel pump or a simple clogged filter? My reasoning was that the down time might call for new gaskets and such.

 

Thoughts??

 

My next concern is the timing belt. I have changed them in other vehicals but not the Sub. Any hints? To much of a gamble to let it slide for now??

 

 

I also am interested in the Pug wheels. Can I go to the 14" W/O the lift? Are there any real benefits other then they look real cool?? I found a guy on a Pug site selling some in Missori and thought I might check into them...

 

About the Weber Carbs, what benefits have you really seen with them?

 

I know I have a lot of work ahead of me, and its my fault for the neglect but I have always loved the little guy and want to turn him into a daily driver again.

 

 

Anyways thanks in advance for any and all help.

I'll post some pics of it soon. ((After I clean all the crap I'm currently storing in it.....

[Txakura]

I think that being willing to learn and try is all any of this requires. Since you already have the kit, just take your time to rebuild the carb. It needs to be cleaned and re-gasketed anyway - right?

 

What exactly is the puddle jumper? That'll help some of the really knowledgable folks to help you. Glad you stopped lurking, 2006? Long time to hide.

[()__1337_CRAYOLA__()>]

and for the timing belts you can mess em up all you want its non interferance

[zukiru]

from a mail man! is it right hand drive?

 

that would be very cool!

[FlyB0y]

If your a carb man, it's really no problem to rebuild. Just keep track of all the little pieces, clean it right (boil it out don't just squirt some canned carb cleaner spray!) check all the little passages with a torch tip cleaner or at least some kind of spray cleaner & blow out with compressed air.

 

There are several people who do fine with the Hitachi, I personally could do with out it's complexity compared to the much simpler Weber, not to mention the ease of obtaining parts for the latter.

 

I gained piece of mind, horsepower AND fuel economy by converting to the Weber when my Hi-tossy started going south.

 

You can find them in most junkyards, somewhere there is a list of many different vehicles you might find with them, then it's just an adapter plate and maybe a kit, usually all told I no more than $100 - $150. New more like $200-$300.

 

I say rebuild the Hi-tossy since you have the kit and drive it for now, if it gives you trouble, don't be afraid of the Weber.

 

As for the PUG's, the main thing is you gain a greater variety of tires available in the 14" and a little space in the fender area.

 

You can get tires that will be stock hight in a 14" so no need to lift (but it would be the PERFECT excuse to put a mild 3" lift, just don't tell the little lady you can fit 14's stock ).

 

Welcome out of the shadows!

[dasuchbe]

DOH! I guess a little knowledge goes a long way.

The Puddle Jumper is a 1987 GL Wagon. 1800cc with an Auto and Push Button 4wd. It is the standard Left hand drive. Has ONLY 150,000 miles on it. ((I believe that's just broke in right;) ))

 

"and for the timing belts you can mess em up all you want its non interferance"

 

()__1337_CRAYOLA__()> -- Are you refering to the boxer engine design?

 

 

"boil it out" -- FlyB0y, how do you mean I should boil it out. I know when I was a kid my dad would get a gallon can of stuff with a wire basket in it that he would soak things in, is this similar?

[subaruguru]

non interferance meens the valves wont get beat up if the cam spins out of pace or dose not spit at all. the 2.5s have this problem i say 2.2 swap but then again i guess a carb is easyer haha

 

cheers welcom from the back of the class

[Quidam]

Hi Das,

 

Odds of a successful rebuild on that carb is pretty slim. You might have to custom grind some screwdrivers to even get it all apart. The power valve is clogged and very hard to clean. Hopefully the "kit" has a new one in it.

 

At that mileage, the throttle shafts have probably worn, hogged out the cast iron they ride in. Assuming it's the original carb.

 

Fuel filters, tank, and fuel pump/lines have a bunch of crap in them.

 

But hopefully, you got it fixed.

 

Doug

[FlyB0y]

DOH! I guess a little knowledge goes a long way.

The Puddle Jumper is a 1987 GL Wagon. 1800cc with an Auto and Push Button 4wd. It is the standard Left hand drive. Has ONLY 150,000 miles on it. ((I believe that's just broke in right;) ))

 

"and for the timing belts you can mess em up all you want its non interferance"

 

()__1337_CRAYOLA__()> -- Are you refering to the boxer engine design?

 

 

"boil it out" -- FlyB0y, how do you mean I should boil it out. I know when I was a kid my dad would get a gallon can of stuff with a wire basket in it that he would soak things in, is this similar?

 

Yes, that is the stuff, you might have to get a second gallon can too fit all the parts, it's a tight squeeze to get the carb submerged, IIRC, I had to split mine (top and bottom halves) and put one in ea can. That or just soak each half over-night (just be sure to get a good blow-up view, usually included in a rebuild kit and get all the plastic parts out, if your in doubt check it in an hour of soaking and flush it clean with water and some parts might be easier to see, some plastic parts can melt in the solvent) in turn, and I think I had to rotate them to get full coverage. And if you have a gas torch tip cleaning kit (the little tin with small wire like probes) use that to make sure all the passageways are clear. zzz

 

You can get away with just a can of spray carb cleaner & compressed air, but IMHO it's better to just do it once and not have to tear it appart again when it still isn't right. The cans usually cost about $20 a gallon, but well worth the piece of mind. Also I agree your going to have some wear in the carb, but I know of several people who were able to clean their hitachi and get it on the road. I had more trouble getting the electric choke solenoid replaced than anything else.

 

However after you get the carb good and clean, and it still has alot of trouble running correctly, in the long run replacement is going to be cheaper than trying to rebuild. I like messing with carbs, but hey, I was a motorcycle mechanic for a few years, and have worked on my own stuff ever since. For me it's the FI systems that are more hassle.