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Paint/Rust Removal .. what methods do you prefer?


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I have finally accepted that I had better start getting serious about removing the rust from my car.

 

I have looked into sandblasting, I have used industrial ones myself in the past (the out-door type, not the cabinet) and I am looking for a red herring as usual. :drunk:

 

I have also stripped paint with a 3,000 pressure washer (from a concrete pool) I want to know if this is a practical way to remove rust?

 

I'm not really wanting to sandblast if I can help it, the mess it makes, the hazardous dust I don't want to inhale (yes I would wear a respirator but some will always get through) and I have looked at the baking soda method of sandblasting, I might try that it sounds less hazardous and wouldn't chew up the good metal as much.

 

Anyhow, I know where the really rusty bits I have to cut out and weld in new, but I am hoping to save as much of the original metal as I can.

 

I have no real experience in true body work, I mostly repaired motorcycle plastic, and yes I know how to use bondo, but I mainly want to stop rust and only worry about the structural areas, cosmetic not so much.

 

Thanks! (oh ya and I am on a very limited income these days, so anything that you can tell me to do to save a few $$$ is also very appreciated. zzz)

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i wouldnt suggest using a pressure washer to remove rust because it wont to much and will force water into small cracks and stuff giving rust more ammo

 

as for harbor freight stuff, its good for general purpose but dont expect it to last long. some of it does but its rare

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Hmm, I'd like to get that 15 Lb. Portable Soda Blaster for $99.99! I think that should get the job done. I need to go to Harbor again soon!

 

-Tom

 

Yeah, that is the one I have my eye on too .... I'm going to look into getting an old fire extinguisher (the medium size ones that have the hose like this one FireExtinguisherABC.jpg) that is the type that uses baking soda, find out how much pressure it needs to run, and use a dryer /regulator to keep the pressure right and I should be set : )

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Hmm, that'll an idea. Dunno if it has enough pressure though? I though most that size only run like 50psi? Anyhoo hope ya find one, I see them all day at the AT&T buildings I go to.

 

-Tom

 

You should snag one! The average pressure is 175 PSI, so my compressor will be the weak link if anything, it can only put out 3CFM at 90 or something working pressure (not peak).

 

I know a place that recharges them, I'll run the idea past him and maybe get one from him that still functions but isn't up to code anymore for dirt cheap. :Flame:

 

Oh I looked closer at your post, I will be attaching a connector to the body of the extinguisher and pressurizing it with my air compressor. If anything, the struggle might be keeping up with the flow rate needed to be effective.

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Lol yea no one will notice its not on the wall anymore (Hehe)

 

oh they are 175psi! Sweet, that'll be pretty good, don't feel bad, our air compresser holds max 130psi, not sure what the CFM is? anyhoo, cool! good luck with that!

 

-Tom

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Hmm, I'd like to get that 15 Lb. Portable Soda Blaster for $99.99! I think that should get the job done. I need to go to Harbor again soon!

 

-Tom

 

Hey! That's cool, and it'd be good for the smaller spot cleaning I need to do.

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Lol yea no one will notice its not on the wall anymore (Hehe)

 

oh they are 175psi! Sweet, that'll be pretty good, don't feel bad, our air compresser holds max 130psi, not sure what the CFM is? anyhoo, cool! good luck with that!

 

-Tom

 

LOL! ya just tell the officer it's going to a good cause, I am sure he'll understand :lol::drunk::dead:

 

I was wrong, it's actually a little better, it's rated 6 CFM at 90 PSI. CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute, and HF should say on the website how many CFM at what PSI it will require. Just look on the compressor somewhere it will list the CFM's at what pressure it can maintain, just be sure your seeing the WORKING CFM's not just looking at the peak. It might be listed in the "fine print". Ususally what they show in big letters/numbers is just the peak so cut that down 50% and should be close, and make sure you give the compressor a break, if you have it running constantly, it might over-heat and wear out prematurely. :horse:

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Yea I;ll say that as they slap on the cuffs and put my in the car "BUT ITS GOING TO A GOOD CAUSE!!"

 

I'll take a look at it today and see what it says, Its a Craftsman. we've had in for some time now. it does the job, wasn't to much either (Since it has a serton name on it :rolleyes: ) Dunno why Crapsman is sooo expensive? I mean I can get the same qulity or better out of Stanley, Bench Top, or some cheepies that say "Tiwan" on them lol. And I use those for mostly everything (Yes fixing the soob as well) :-p

 

Alright, I gots to get going. Later guys.

 

-Tom

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SCORE!! I'm heading to the shop of a guy that refills fire extinguishers for a living and he is going to GIVE me a suitable steel tanked extinguisher (I'll see if he can let me have 2-3 so I have some to experiment on). :banana:

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No did he use the word "Give"? or are you going to have to pay for them?

 

He says he'll give you one, but then when you get there you will have to pay Hehe!

 

Just joking, glad you are able to get some. Post pics when you do make one :banana:

 

-Tom

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Here's my new free extinguishers to play with! zzz

27274650061_large.jpg

 

And here's a pic of the max tested pressure rating. (top right of label says 525 PSI tested max pressure, the smaller one is rated 585 PSI)

 

27274650062_large.jpg

 

And I tried to get more of the label but it was just too fine, it says on both that it has a working charged pressure of 175 PSI, so my 130 PSI air compressor isn't ever going to be able to over-pressurize it. :Flame:

 

The guy I got them from suggested I try pressurizing through the pressure gauge, and I tried that with my rubber cone tipped air gun, and it worked great! I just had to prime it by opening the top and letting a little water come through.

 

Annother note, any fire extinguisher will work, no matter if it is designed for dry chem, water or CO2 (the CO2 ones are the highest pressure and are ideal for an emergency air tank for flats, just charge it, and leave it in the spare tire area ready to be used when needed.) just make sure it's in reasonably good condition, and use your common sense and be safe. ;)

 

 

I use safety goggles and I made sure I got what was left of the dry chem after he emptied it with water. Most ABC fire extinguishers will have amonium nitrate based powder, so don't get that in your eyes. I plan on finding some kind of a connector to fit the guage hole, and I am going to check the local United Grocer's warehouse for bulk baking soda (or calicium bicarbonate as it's technicly called) and I am set! :banana:

 

I will try and get some video if it discharging with water, but not sure how to work the video mode on my cannon SD300 yet or how to host it but I will at least get some stills of it. :burnout:

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I'm guessing the littler tank is stronger since it's smaller? Would make sense if the walls of the tanks are the same thickness.

 

Anyhow, it's 92 DEG. outside, so I will have to take pics when it cools off a bit. :-p

 

My project is complete with just $4 of pipe fittings, now just need to find a cheap source of baking soda. I can get it for $ 0.77 per lb. from HF, but I don't want to buy a 50lb. bag. or spend $35 but it might end up being the best deal.

 

I'm going to try and see if I can buy some in bulk at the near-by United Grocer's warehouse. Not sure if it will be possible to reuse.

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Not to worry, he hydro tests them the only reason these tanks are not in service is their age and the extra stringent requirements for keeping them in service as a fire extinguisher. :burnout:

 

I am also purposefully not running them even at their designed service pressure to keep an extra safety margin. :)

 

Anyhow, I got a pic of the set-up and of me blasting water out of one w00t! :Flame:(cleaning them out before I get the soda)

 

27274650065_large.jpg

 

And here is a pic of what parts needed to hook-up the air fittings:

 

27274650066_large.jpg

 

What you see is a 1/8" pipe nipple (same size as the gauge removed) a 1/8" to 1/4" pipe bell reducer, and a the male air fitting. Cost me just under $4. :banana:

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Hehe ya, official work boots for 90 DEG. weather :grin:. I have cleaned out all the ABC powder, so no real danger of getting it in the face anymore. The blast of water isn't too harsh, and once I was sure of no leaks, I relaxed my safety measures. I have set the regulator for 90 PSI, so I am well below the rated pressure, I just need to experiment now with the soda. :clap:

 

If you look around in your area, there is bound to be someone who services fire extinguishers and might give you a similar deal. He has a lot of people who get the old tanks from him and make things like blow torch heads to attach to the sides of buses for Burning Man and the like too. :Flame:

 

We should have a "fire extinguisher" icon for the mods to use if no one else for use in the OT forum lol! :lol:

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Are those offical work boots? LMAO!

 

Oh boy, now this is getting me excited! I want one! Where did you by the $4 of parts? Man I want one of these!

 

Tom :) :)

 

 

The parts can be bought at any local hardware store, just write down the names of the pipe fittings and look in the plumbing department. I could have bought brass fittings for about $7 but I don't expect this to get used a lot, so I went with galvanized. :popcorn:

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The parts can be bought at any local hardware store, just write down the names of the pipe fittings and look in the plumbing department. I could have bought brass fittings for about $7 but I don't expect this to get used a lot, so I went with galvanized. :popcorn:

 

Cool, I'll have to look next time i'm at Ace. Galvanized will be just fine for your useage. Brass just ain't worth it :grin:

 

Thank you.

 

-Tom

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I just realized that soda blasting might be a great way to clean surface corrosion off of aluminum rims without taking too much material or leaving a corrosive residue behind*

 

*grit blasting is fine, but not such a great idea when the cabinet has been used for steel... makes nice galvanic batteries out of your aluminum parts :eek:

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I just realized that soda blasting might be a great way to clean surface corrosion off of aluminum rims without taking too much material or leaving a corrosive residue behind*

 

*grit blasting is fine, but not such a great idea when the cabinet has been used for steel... makes nice galvanic batteries out of your aluminum parts :eek:

 

Wow, never thought of that, good to know! :eek:

 

I was looking at the HF version some more and I think the real difference is theirs allows you to adjust the flow of media & air separately. I wonder how expensive it would be to just buy their special valve too, might be $50, hey that would still be about 1/2 price. :banana:

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