Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 93 legacy nonturbo 2.2l what is with the alternator belt being too small to just slip over all of ht epulley and just tighten the tensioner back down? i got the correct belt supposedly. 345k5 thats the only real number i can remember right now. the box is outside. its a dayton belt. it just wont slip over the last pulley. the alt is restign on the bottom the tensioner bolt is not holding it. no mods have been doen to change the pulleys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVOthis Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 With a little bit of force you should be able to pop it on there...i could be wrong but i believe the number your referring to is the length..which is prob 34.5...I will say this though..some of those NAPA belts dont fit well at all...are you sure the adjusting bolt is all the way backed out and the alternator is all the way pushed down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 yea im pretty sure thats the length. 34 1/2 the adjusting bolt is sittign above the bracket and the alt is sittign on the power steerign pump bracket so its all the way down for sure. i have been tryign since 5 today and this si the only belt in town i have tried all the town has to offer i made five trips to the parts stores all of them. i think the belt is made wrong. is thier soem other sort of secrect i am missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 They are tight. Sometimes I loosen up the PS pump to get the belt on. I tried a slightly longer belt and couldn't get it to tighten. I always install a little shorter belt on the AC compressor. Something about that adjuster almost being the whole way to the end that I don't like. I would think it should have some adjustment left. The alternators can be stubborn in the slide going the whole way down to get out of the way. But sometimes I swear it just can't be done. So I do the PS move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 well i just got it on. i already had the ps pump loose. so it might move and give some room. it didnt give any really. so i took the long bolt out of the other side of the alt. and then tapped the alt down with a hammer on the long bolt side. i barely got the belt to go on. then i could nt get long bolt back in of course. so i had my widfe crank the enigne and somethign happened and it became all loose. so my wife is retightening the ps pump back up right now. i will go out and retighten all of the bolts. i do not know why starting it with the bolts loose and belt on made the belt loose to go on but it did. thanks for your guys help on this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 post script. where is the water pump on this engine? i noticed its not ran by the front engine belts. is there a rear engine belt or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 where is the water pump on this engine? /quote] It's driven by the timing belt so it's hidden behind the left (driver's side) tb cover. Do you have a Haynes manual? Might consider getting one to see where things are and how to get to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 i bought one off of ebay and almost got ripped off. good thing paypal stood behind me. no i still dont have one. ebay rip offs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 i've often thought the exact same thing, if you're going to make a tensioning mechanism what is the point of making the "loosest" point still tight and difficult to get on when another 1/4" makes it an easy job? if you plan on having the car awhile and doing your own work the FSM's are awesome. they're available free too if you start asking around and looking, folks have the digital versions or you can buy them online. they are immensely better than the Haynes or Chilton's manuals. They pay for themselves with one job often times but they are also way overkill unless you're really getting into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 i have a ford fsm . on cd and it soaks. i looked at some paper ones on ebay but man they were to high for me to think about. as far as this deal it should have been a no brainer. i dont knwo why it was so tight and then after i got it on and started it it was so easy to get off and back on. it was just something stupid i guess. because i couldnt figure out why it did that. but i knew it would do that. just from experience with other cars and trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 i have had some luck turning the engine by hand while feeding the belt on. on a side note, when i did my engine swap i failed to tighten the alt/ps belt enough. it would squeal at start up and tight turns. i finally thigtened it , but now, 3 months later it has an occasional squeal. i'm a little scared of making it too tight. (i have an alt on the shelf because the threads in the body stripped.) any one have a rule of thumb for how tight to make it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 It's just one of those feel things. I'm guessing about 1/4" to 3/8" deflection with decent pressure applied with your fingers? If I think about it I'll look at one today. That's what I do on most cars and Suby's included. Perhaps on the tight side for most folks. Of all the alternator, PS piumps, AC compressors that I've ever replaced very few have been from bearing failure that may be able to be blamed on too tight of a belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 any one have a rule of thumb for how tight to make it??? The rule of thumb that I heard long ago, is to tighten a belt, so that if twisted in the middle at it longest distance between pullys, the belt can be rotated 90 degrees using your finger tips with firm tension. It is really important to buy a good quality belt, either dealer OEM, or from Gates, or a Goodyear Gator back. Buying a cheapie belt will stretch and start slipping and squealing in a matter of just a few months. BTDT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 i got kind of lucky when i tightened mine down. i used the dirt on the adjuster bolt as a rule of where to stop tightneing hte bolt. but a general rule is not to let the belt flex up or down in slack more than (i think ) 1/2 inch more or less. and 1/2 inch is probably too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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